Lost electrical power - 76 GT750

[Chel_in_IL]

My GT750 was running wonderfully. We took it out for a spin to the gas station to fill up on fuel, and on the way back it just died. No power. Just cut off like someone turned the ignition off.

There is absolutely NO power when you turn the ignition switch on. No horn, no lights on dash, etc.

What we did leading up to this:
I had the rear signals off to redo the brackets. I reinstalled them and routed the wires where they woud not be pinched. Checked wires - they are fine.

I had removed the headlight to put new screws in the headlight housing and also to remove the turn signals to put some washers at the base where they mount to the ears. I marked the wires inside the housing (left, right) and reinstalled correctly.


What I've done to troubleshoot:
I checked the fuse, it was not blown. Found post on here about the fuse holder being problematic, so I disassembled the fuse holder and connected the two leads together. Tested power at the lead and it is fine. Battery is fine.

Removed tank and checked wires and such under there. Checked grounds, look good. Rechecked wiring in headlight housing and turn signals. All look good. Even disconnected turn signals.. nada

Tips? Hints? Suggestions? Where should I check to say, Ok - got power here?

Michelle in Northern IL

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Michelle firstly you need to get a multimeter and trace the red power wire from the battery positive up to the ignition switch.
If you do not get power up at the ignition switch harness socket then nothing else will work.

[Chel_in_IL]

Just got back in from the garage... used my multimeter to test from the battery up and found that the ignition switch was at fault. Jumped some connectors in the harnass leading to/from it and the GT had power. Removed ignition switch and found the orange wire had broke off from the solder point. Looks like someone soldered this before... hmm.. doesn't surprise me considering the original owner used twine to hold the turn signals up.

Off to buy a soldering iron. (My soldering iron is at home an hour away, and my van is a rolling electronics repairhouse sans the soldering iron.)

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Ok then, so its a faulty connection, if the switch has some internal corrosion the terminals will heat up and release the solder as well. Since its taking a fair amount of amps the soldered 'blob' has to be well done so it wont drop off again. It wont hurt to flush the switch with WD40 and work it back and forth to see what colour stuff comes out the drain hole. If its black keep doing it till its clear then apply some good quality waterproof grease into the same drain hole and leave the switch upside down for at least 30 mins so it can work up into the upper portion as well.
Just some thoughts on the matter.

[Triplerocky]

My GT380 did the same a while back....random on and off.
I completely dismantled the ignition switch, over time wear filed away contacts, literally.
I made one good switch from two...and resoldered the cables, of course.

[Chel_in_IL]

Thanks, I will follow both your instructions. I have a ride coming up in two weeks that I was getting it ready for and don't want to be stranded. At least we were not riding two up...