Bleeding Front Brakes on a GT750

pikeslayer · Post by **pikeslayer** » Mon Jan 25, 2010 11:21 am

Wayne Meuir wrote:What TZ said!!

I put a master cylinder off a 2001 SV650 Naked bike on my Buffalo and it works beautifully. $20 off Ebay.

Wayne

Did all the other GT 750 stuff work? Brake lever, taillight switch, etc.?

Wayne Meuir · Post by **Wayne Meuir** » Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:30 pm

You use the M/C, BL switch, lever, etc from the SV. The banjo bolt may have to be changed, I don't remember if the SV has the same threads as the GT or not. SV brake light switch has two wires coming out of it just like the GT has, so you just splice those two wires together and the brake light works like it always did and is a much better design. The GT brake light switch can be a PITA anyway, so you end up getting a better one.

I also used a clutch perch from an early GS500 so that the clutch and brake levers would match. This also helps with the routing of the clutch cable if you have low handlebars because it routes the clutch cable farther forward around the rear of the headlight bucket and then on down to the clutch cover. If you use straight, low bars like Superbike Bars, the stock perch will aim the clutch cable almost directly at the steering stem and it gets really crowded trying to get it back to the clutch cover without kinking it. If you decide to use the GS perch, be sure to get an early one because the later ones do not have a mirror mount on them.

Wayne

Coyote · Post by **Coyote** » Mon Jan 25, 2010 6:21 pm

Yes the snap ring is a royal PITA!! Here's a pic of mine while re doing the one on the Buffalo that sat untouched for 25 years. Lovely huih?
I bought two 3/32 allen wrenches and cut them off then hand ground the tips. Even that didn't work all that well. The long tips tended to flex more than collapsing the ring. I finally got it out after screwing with it for about 2 hours. Then I had to extract the piston with a pair of needle nose vise grips.
Surprisingly the bore was in really great shape. After cleaning all in alcohol, the rebuild kit installed easily till it came time to install that miserable snap ring. After I finally got that back in - next comes the dust boot and it's little retaining ring. I farted with that for about 3 hours and finally threw the ring over my shoulder in to the trash. The dust boot will stay place even without the ring and can't ever fall out once the lever is back in place.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:21 am

A little trick for driving out stuck pistons AFTER the snap ring is removed. Insert a long pin punch through the banjo hole and gently tap the piston out.

pikeslayer · Post by **pikeslayer** » Tue Jan 26, 2010 7:48 am

tz375 wrote:A little trick fro driving out stuck pistons AFTER the snap ring is removed. Insert a long pin punch through the banjo hole and gently tap the piston out.

I did that too.

Coyote,

Mine wasn't quite that bad. I dig booger up the snap ring groove in one spot while pounding a screwdriver in to get out the snap ring. I'm kinda worried about that.