engine removed

rngdng · Post by **rngdng** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:15 am

JBWeld is the ducttape of the 21st century. IT'S THE BEST!!!!

Lane

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:26 am

That was good lane.

I'm not a big fan of JB weld, but I do use DEVCON F from time to time to build up castings where welding is not an option. It's an aluminum dust and epoxy matrix and is incredibly strong.

It's the stuff I use to repair holes in crankcases when the rod breaks through.

For this particular application, it might be possible to use JB weld as long as everything was spotlessly clean and keyed. I have seen other epoxy resins go yellow and hard, or soft and gooey, in a hot oil bath, so I'm very wary of using it inside a motor.

rngdng · Post by **rngdng** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:44 pm

I did a little JBWeld experiment once to test it's strength. I drilled out an exhaust stud hole on a trashed H2 cylinder. I think I went out to about 3/8", then I filled it with JBWeld, and heated it to get any bubbles out. The next day, I drilled and tapped it to 8mm. I put a bolt in and bottomed it in the hole, then got out the torque wrench. At 20 ft/lbs, the bolt broke....the JB didn't fail.

Lane

smokin · Post by **smokin** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 4:52 pm

Thanks tz375 and alan I think I'll try the hylomar, but why can't I put a rubber like sealer around the opening, when you fit the cases together it should make a tight fitting and stay pliable or is the gap that wide, is there to much pressure in the water passage for the sealer to hold? When I pulled it apart there was a thin layer of glue like substance and it wasn't that thick, I'll put the cases together when they're clean and use some plastergage to measure the thickness I just don't understand why it's such a big problem.

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:08 pm

There is supposed to be NO SPACE anywhere on the matching surfaces when the cases are torqued together.
The sealant is used to fill any microscopic voids and to create a barrier against leakage under expansion such as when the engine warms up.
I'm not sure why youd want to put rubber sealant there around that section when the Hylomar or Threebond is required, but you can try it and let us know the results.

smokin · Post by **smokin** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:18 pm

I will use the hylomar just didn't know why you guys where going through much trouble with jbweld or filing things down to make it work, if all I have to do is put a dab of hylomar then that will work for me.

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:33 pm

Only the 72 cases have an issue as we were mentioning where the overlap of the section is questionable. Suzuki knew this and updated the cases from 73 on to prevent any leakage issues.
Its been a case of discussing a self-done update to help the design of the 72 case.

smokin · Post by **smokin** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:06 pm

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy1/ ... C00811.jpg
A question on the sris I know people disconnect these, the check valves on the bottom case 2 work but not like they should they work both ways and one is working right are these screwed in or pressed on and should I try to fix these or disconnect them.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:14 pm

Allan, Dave, Anyone, have a set of 72 and a set of later cases to show the differences in this area to make this clearer.

smokin · Post by **smokin** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 1:04 am

Tz375 Sorry, I didn't mean to get anyone upset about the fitting didn't know that it's been a discussion for a while.
I know the later gt's are screwed on and the 72's are supposed to be pressed these have a hex head on them and that throughs me off, I'm thinking of disconnecting the sris just need some input.

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:01 am

72 SRIS valves are a taper fit into the cases while 73s and later are screwed in with an aluminum sealing washer.
Both have hex heads so you turn the 72s as well and after a while they come out if you dont push on the socket.
Take them out and soak them in some solvent first to see if the springs are still working.

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:00 am

The SRIS valves on the early 72's are just pressed in as Allan says and can most times be cleaned up to work as designed , most time the problem comes when trying to get the replacement screens as they are NLA . If you want to go ahead and do away with the system you will need to thread the valve holes for screws to plug them up.

Coyote · Post by **Coyote** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:08 am

They are a one way valve. Out only. Do NOT use compressed air to check them as the are easily destroyed that way.
If you omit the SRIS system, Be sure to plug the 3 at the cylinder. Small vacuum caps work or a short piece is SRIS hose with a plug in it.

rbond · Post by **rbond** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 2:03 pm

I love hylomar, great stuff!! Have used J-B weld too, I fixed a B&S twin that had thrown a rod. Cleaned out the case j-b'd the larger pieces back in place, j-b'd a metal plate to fill in a large gap, had the crank turned under sized with matching rods, and TA-DA!!!! this puppy started and ran smooth as silk with no leaks. Kept it a week running it for a couple of hours at a time, pulled the flywheel off twice to check for leaks and signs of it coming apart, NOTHING. Boy I felt good about this repair, so did my customer, saved him half the cost of another engine.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:40 pm

So we're good to go on teh SRIS. Now back to the crankcases and where they leak.

My request for pictures was so that we are all on the same page and can all see what that difference is about. Of course I was making reference to the area that leaks and that wasn't clear.

I have a couple of sets of 74/76 cases but no 72s to compare them with. Anyone got a set they can take a picture of? I was hoping that Dave or Allan had a set open.