Suzuki 2 Strokes

This looks like a slightly different approach...pressing in vs welding the stepped washer. I wonder why he recommends having them knurled and hardened? That seems like overkill, since the frame mounting points are just mild steel plates with a hole drilled thru.

Zunspec4 wrote:Hi CJF,

Still listed by Robinsons Foundry

09319-12006 BUSH
£5.02 (includes VAT)

http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop/ ... index.html

I'm sure they will post overseas, and you should avoid the VAT sales tax.

Cheers Zunspec

I decided to go with the stock bushings for now instead of modifying for the GT750 bushings. I ended up ordering the bushes from Robinsons, but only ordered 4 because I thought the front two bushes were available in the US. The front bushings are part number 09319-12005. They showed available with on-line fiche here in the US and it was 0nly the middle and back bushes that were showing unavailable. I just called my local Suzuki dealer ready to order the front two and they guy told me it isn't available!!!

I went back to check and see why there are two different part numbers listed. The size of all 6 bushings looks to be the same. Have you used this part number for all 6 bushing holes?

Hi CJF,

The different number front bushes are now superseded and are now the same number as the middle/rear ones. Sorry, I should have mentioned that . Having new bushes on my T500 made a big difference compared to the worn out originals so it's worth getting the remaining two.

Cheers Zunspec

OK, thanks for the info. Shouldn't be too late to add 2 more to my order at Robinsons.

I followed the steps you provided to remove the bushings and ran into a problem. I pressed out the bushings, but the outside casing of the bushings didn't come out with the rest of the bushing....not good! Any advice on how to get the rest out without risking damage tot he engine case??

I would put a blow torch to it.
heat it upand when you get it suffiently hot.
use a centre pop and knock it out from the inside to out.

This might work, but the damn bushing is flush with the engine case on the inside so there isn't a lip to use when hitting it with a punch. I guess I could still try by hitting the inside of the bushing case at an angle from the inside.

I was also considering using a dremel tool and grinding down a portion of the inside of the casing until it gets very thin and cant be broken with a punch from the outside lip....and then trying to hammer out the rest in pieces. I took this aproach with the triple tree bushes. It took a very long time to get them out.

It's really the same as the rear pipe mount bushings on a GT750. If the outer sleeve is all that's left, use a carbide Dremel bit, and cut through the bushing. Just cut a trough the length of the bushing and if necessary, smooth the original bore before installing the new bushing.


Lane

I was able to press out 3 entire bushings including the outside casing. I used some heat on the cases before pressing out which i think helped. The other three bushings came out, but left the outside metal casing in the engine case. I tried heat and a punch with no success.

I ended up using the dremel to thin the casing in one spot the full length of the casing as Lane recommended. Then I used a very small srew driver blade, brass hammer, nail punch, pliers and a furniture pad over the engine case in case I slipped with the hammer. The very small thin srew driver blade was wedged between the bushing casing and the engine case using the hammer and once the outer bushing case was broken in the thined out spot, it was easier to hammer out the rest using the screw driver and nail punch. It took about an hour and a half to remove 3 bushings. I was being extra careful to avoid damaging the engine case. The was another lesson in patients!! Here is what is left of them after my handy work.