Suzuki 2 Strokes

Greetings all,

Does anyone know what to do if the front brake is dragging and will not adjust. Since it is a dual cam front brake I backed the adjusting rod all the way off and still have a dragging brakes. I was thinking of removing the front lever pin to release the adjusting rod, then remove and reposition the front cam lever on the front cam shaft to release the internal shoe, then reconnect the adjusting rod and adjust. Might I be causing any unnecessary work by doing this versus removing the whole brake assembly, adjust everything and then reinstall the brake? By the way adjusting the brake cable does not help.

Secondly, I adjusted my carbs today then shut the bike down and disconnected the battery connection wire. Subsequently I wanted to check something else, so I turned the key on and fired the bike up. I noticed the neutral light was very bright and flickering some. So I shut it down. I then notice the battery was disconnected. I cannot figure how it started, it acted like a magneto, but the book says it has an alternator. How did it start without the battery connected? Any ideas anyone?

ettore

Try loosening off the linkage, then adjust and tighten the linkage whilst HOLDING ON THE BRAKE. This will sometimes centralise everything.
Some brakes also like to have the wheel spindle loosened off a bit, then tightened up again with the brake held on.

Thanks for the response. I tried the technique of turning the adjusting linkage rod while pulling the hand brake lever. I ran the adjusting rod all the way both ways and got only minor relief one way and locked brakes the other way, and they still drag quite a bit. Am I going to have to pull the brake assembly and reset everything to a neutrally adjustable position then reinstall?

ettore

My T20 front brake doesn't drag so they don't all do it. The only time I've had dragging drum brakes on bikes was when the pivots were partly seized or (once) when I had a cracked drum. Thus, if it were me, I would be pulling apart and checking everything.

Yes, alternator systems can generate enough juice to start a coil system without a battery. There is no regulator on a T20 so without a battery you probably got some scary voltage in the system. My 1999 Honda CRM250 is alternator based with a regulator but has a large capacitor rather than a battery. You know the alternator is working as the neutral light glows briefly when you kick it over.

Keith

As gammakeith said, the T20 has a permanent magnet alternator. It does not use any electricity supplied by the battery.
The battery is the only voltage regulator. The lights can burn out rather quickly if you don’t have a good battery.

The brake likely just needs lubricated.
Clean and regrease the cam holes in the brake panel. Apply just a little grease in the hole rather that the cam. A high-pressure grease is recommended. I use CRC Sta-Lube Sta-Plex premium red grease. Sold by O-Reilly Auto Parts, Amazon & etc.
Just a smidgen of that grease on the cam-to-shoe contact surfaces also helps.
Grease can ruin brake shoes, so be careful.

The brake cable also needs lubed. Use a cable lubricator tool + cable lube.
A damaged cable might cause the brake to stick. So check for free motion.

Also helps to apply smidgen of that grease to the brake lever pivots with the handlebar & cable.

With everything apart, it’s a good time to consider new brake shoes.

Thanks everyone for the clarification on the non battery starting T20. I guess with a permanent magnet alternator I have a quasi-magneto/alternator. To lubricate the cam holes and cam lobes in the backing plate it looks like the brake will have to come off. Will check the condition of the shoes. I assume when I reattach the front and rear brake levers afterwards I should ensure they are parallel to one another when reassembled. Should the brake lever adjusting rod be set to a half way position or should I set it all the way to one end or the other?

Thanks for all the help guys, this bike has been sitting for 10 years without being ridden, so I have to catch up on a lot of little things to get it road worthy.

ettore