1971 t 350 no start

[Maryland2stroke]

Hello to all here’s my story iv got my old Suzuki it will not start iv replaced the crank shaft new pistons rings point condenser I have spark iv set the points at .014 I’m new to these bikes I’m a mechanic and iv never seen something so simple as this not start it’s got compression and a charged battery every thing works except for a bad headlight bulb iv cleaned and set the carbs and it’s got a new battery and tips or anything would be much appreciated this bike did run 2 years ago but life got in the away and I want to get it going for the spring oh and also my plugs are getting fuel. Thank you

[blue.titon]

Just swap the plug leads over, and give a try you might be surprised.

[Maryland2stroke]

Thank you for the response I’ve swapped plug wires didn’t make a difference I know I got hot spark to both cylinders I got ngk b-77hc spark plugs that I put in when I rebuilt the engine two years ago if I ground them to the cylinder head they have a blue spark I’ve checked ignition timing with a dial indicator the old Suzuki manual says make sure contact points opening when the piston is 2.88mm 0.113 Btdc 24 degrees which is were I set the points at 0.014mm now I didn’t mess with what I call the advanced or retard plates The manual does not mention adjustment of those they seam to be in the middle of there slot adjustments I know I have clean new fuel I always drain the tank and bowls before I store the bike when I rebuilt I lined the inside of the tank due to rust what do you think about those spark plugs? hard to tell if there firing on compression it try’s to start a couple of times after my knee wore out thanks for your help oh and points are complete closed on red and black timing marks

[jabcb]

Make sure that manually operating the left points fires the left plug.

Check the carb slides. The cutout should face the airbox. If the cutout faces the motor, then swap the slides.

[Maryland2stroke]

Thanks for the reply yes I’ve checked the left set of points it does fire the plug and so does the right plug when i manual open the points left points left head right points right head as for the slides yes I have the cut out facing out towards battery I did have major issues of learning you can’t tighten the carburetors tight just slightly snug or else the slides will hang I do have new o rings on them i did a cylinder leak down test at 30 psi there is a 5 pounds difference don’t hear any thing out the exhaust or in crank case can hear a little hiss out the carb I did that test just rule out possibly bad head gasket or something else ? Anyway with the carbs I do have the air cleaner off can’t see how that would affect it not starting and as with the carbs slide cut outs are equally bottom out. Now with the idle screws on the top of the carbs this how I set them PLEASE correct me if the adjustments are wrong I screwed both of them in tell spring is compressed I backed them out 4 1/2 turns idle mixture screws on side of carb all the in till they stop back out 1 1/2 turns thanks for your help.

[karl pa]

i did a cylinder leak down test at 30 psi

When you do a leak down test, you are not to exceed 5-7 PSI, any more and you can damage crankseals.

I didn’t mess with what I call the advanced or retard plates The manual does not mention adjustment of those they seam to be in the middle of there slot adjustments

The plates are how you set the timing,If you need to advance timing on a cylinder you move the plate clockwise,if you need to retard you move the plate counter clockwise.

points are complete closed on red and black timing marks

On the red and black mark is when the plugs should spark, they are rough timing marks,so the appropriate points should be breaking on the mark.

[Maryland2stroke]

Thank you for the advise I definitely wrote that down not exceed in 5 to 7 psi for leak down test I went ahead and put new spark plugs in there autolite 4093 copper core plugs low and behold it starts I guess those ngk b-77hc new old stock eBay plugs aren’t that good. Now my next problem is it wants to run away does anybody know what the adjustments are for the carbs are? I’m one and a half out on mixture screw and 4 and a half on idle screws slides are bottom out thinking of an air leak? i have new o rings on carbs has for the inside of the carbs I’ve disassembled done to nothing clean all ports and made sure needle would close of pulling a vacuum thanks for the help.

[Maryland2stroke]

Okay I checked for air leaks I pulled the spark plugs back I have a smoke machine I use for finding vacuum leaks I brought the pistons down and smoked it through the spark plug holes iv found smoke to be coming out of the carburetor slide adjustment screws just a tiny amount I think I will put vacuum caps over them tomorrow and see what it does running tomorrow.

[karl pa]

I guess those ngk b-77hc new old stock eBay plugs aren’t that good

What I understand is there are a lot of cheap NGK knockoffs on ebay.
You did say the slides bottom out, my 71 T250 had a slight bend in the idle rod which caused the slide to hang up.

[Maryland2stroke]

I thought the slides were down my eye sight is just not that good I’m sitting right next to the bike look up at the handle bars and noticed the the throttle cable sheathing was out soon as I put it back in I heard the slides drop Now there at there bottom kicked it over it fired right up I road around the parking lot seams to bog iv got to get a manometer seen them on eBay for $100 bucks seem to have good reviews ? I did get on the throttle in 2 second gear definitely pulled hard but has soon has i got off throttle it hung I shut it off everything looked ok carb slides/throttle cable now iv noticed my oil feed lines have air pockets in them I have plenty oil in the tank bike is smoking out the tail pipes when I rode it around I was watching to make sure it would. What’s funny about this bike every we’re I go In Maryland no motorcycle mechanic wants to mess with it that’s okay with I’m mechanic there’s things I don’t like working on so I’m on a learning curve with it also seems like it had a knock every so slight when I road it around on the stand it doesn’t do it so I’m thinking it’s just the chain noise. It does have a Paul Miller crank shaft and rods the original one bent a connecting in 1984 before my time when it ran away when my uncle road it are you from Pennsylvania? Is there any big two stroke shows in Carlisle? I would like to see other bikes running in person just to see how they sound definitely a different sound compared to my rm bikes thanks for the reply and no eBay spark plugs for me!

[karl pa]

Are you still running without air cleaner? this will cause them to bog.
On my GT500, I had air bubbles in oil line a few years ago, what I found was an air leak where it divided into two lines.
Yes, from south east PA. There aren't many 2 stroke shows in this area. This year was a mess, I normally attend the vjm show at white rose mc in Jefferson, York county, but it was cancelled this year. As was the shows at martin motorsports in Boyertown.
I'm not sure what happened to the oily pipes club, they were a 2 stroke club from the PA,NJ,DE area.

[Maryland2stroke]

I don’t have the air cleaner i rode it around with no filter I do have a 2 filters that clamp to the carbs i will put them on and try again I messed with the oil pump took a line off while it was running for a second and manual opened the pump no oil pressure the tach drive off pump is spinning don’t see any leaks thanks for your help hopefully next year is better for the bike shows.

[karl pa]

I do have a 2 filters that clamp to the carbs

I tried using metal pod filters before, but had trouble with bogging, never tried foam clamp on, might work better.
I use stock air filters on all my bikes, (less headaches) except getting rubber boots on

[Maryland2stroke]

Yeah I got the metal pod filters Im gonna have to get the air box for it I got the rubber boot but it’s petrified rubber I took the oil lines off right side blew threw the line there’s a clog on one side I can’t blow throw it so I guess that’s a problem I would say I got to find my extra lines that I got. With the the oil lines off and run it just for minute there ain’t much oil at all coming out of the pump when I manual open the pump back and fourth there’s a little oil pumping out don’t know if that’s how these old bikes are I also have a old used oil pump may swap it after Christmas and see what happens

[karl pa]

When you remove the oil lines, the oil doesn't pump out like you would think, it just kind of runs out, and not in huge quantity.
Word of caution is you don't want to use compressed air to blow through oil lines, pressure will damage the check valves in them.
I never done it but read where you bolt bango bolt in oil line union, using a oil squirt can pump oil into bango bolt and through lines.