Check valves

[Glyn.G]

Hi Vintageman,
The problem is they are brand new valves from Partzilla so should not be gummed up and should work straight from the packet. I have contacted Partzilla about the problem and they are sending replacements free of charge. The trouble is it's not always the same valve that leaks, and by a differing amounts. Every time I flush them through then re-prime it's a different one that allows oil through.

[manier]

Hello Everyone

I am new here in the forum, come from Switzerland and own a Suzuki GT 250 which unfortunately currently does not run due to the same problem. After a defective kickstarter spring change, I noticed that there is air in one oil line. Since then I have made some repairs and changes, like seal washers replaced, oil pumps new seal kit. The problem alternates between the lines. I have now bought new used oil lines and installed new check valves specified for Suzuki GT 250. Unfortunately, these also leak as described by Glyn G.

The thread is older could the problem be solved?
Exist meanwhile more experience regarding the Kawasaki 16128009 Valve-check?

Thanks for your help
best regards,
Manuel

[joethebike]

Manuel, check very carefully for a crack in the oil lines as I found a crack in the oil line under the metal collar that secures the oil line to the check valve. It drove me mad trying to find the reason for bubbles in the line.

[Alan H]

Unfortunately, the oil lines were never expected to still be in use 50 or more years after manufacture and they eventually go brittle. It's possible to 'paint' cracked pipework with epoxy adhesive though, as the chances of finding a new oil spider is minimal.

[manier]

Thanks for your feedback.

The oil lines should be OK, I checked them in a water bath and with light pressure from a bicycle pump. if there was a crack in the tube, I think I would have found it, but thanks for the advice.
So it can only be the old check valves.

In thise case, I was lucky enough to find two used oil-lines and am in the process of restoring them. I replaced the front fittings (outer⌀ 6 mm, inner⌀ 4mm nylon tube) of all four exits and sealed the new pipe sections on the old lines with formic acid, new valves have also been fitted. I have now filled them with 2-strokeoil and hung them up, but within a very short time they start to drip, is this normal?

I then removed the valve check that leaked the most, took it apart and made a new brass pin as recommended in another thread. I think my old lathe is too inaccurate, so that didn't help either. Unfortunately the new pin was 0.1mm too big and I ruined the mounting of the new check valve. The original brass pin is now loose.

The new check valves were unfortunately the last 4 from this supplier. So I wonder if there is a big difference between the ones on offer or if I can just order two replacement valves from a different manufacturer or do all four valves have to be exactly the same?

[smokin]

I to bought the same check valves from the guy in the UK about 5 years ago. I checked for leakage and 4 of 5 valves leaked, then I checked the pop and that was all over the place 2.5 psi to 8 psi very inconsistant. Looking further into it the pop it should be 4 psi for suzuki valves so I bought the kawasaki valves, no leakes but the pop was 2.5 psi so I changed out the springs so now the pop is 4 psi. The GT 750 now smokes less and when it sits for a awhile it doesn't smoke that much at start up.
I do have two sets of check valves for sale for the GT 750, they are new and the pop on them is set at 4 psi and you will also get the inline check valve which is used but it has been rebuilt with a new seat, ball and spring, the set will come with 6 check valves. If interested message me for more information and pic.

Smokin