rngdng wrote:You could always put a manual switch on the handlebars, then you would be in control.
Lane
yea but I'd forget to to turn it on , I'm to worried about whatching the ole blue hairs here in FL trying to kill most anything on 2 wheeels.
Riding around Central FL is kinda like being in a mad max movie
As listed in another post, I am getting ready to rebuild my T350 and have a question about the engine cases. The engine that was in the bike has a broken case where the chain broke and I was going to use the top case from the parts bike on the bottom case that is already in the bike. Can the cases be interchanged without alignment problems with the crankshaft? I know that in car engines you have to line bore the engine block if you use a different crank or main caps. I wanted to leave the transmission alone if I could. Thanks for your time and advice.
Lane's right - sometimes you can do this and sometimes not. Give it a try and see. For some reason the T350 seems particularly susceptible to damage from a thrown chain. My T350 has the same damage. The only other option would be to rebuild the damaged area by grafting in a section out of a good case. This would be a tricky one to get right though and have it look halfway decent....
Apparently motorcycle engine cases have the two halfs clamped together in a fixture and are then line bored so that alignment is not an issue, we're talking late sixties machining technology so the tolerances won't be as good as they are today, however I'm sure the process was fairly repeatable. If you can use the top off a spare motor, can you not use the bottom half also? and just swap the guts over from your existing gearbox.
Thanks for the answers guys. I could use the bottom case off the parts bike and change the guts out of the other engine but I'm a coward. I can see me getting the engine back together and the transmission not shifting correctly. The first and last transmission I tried to work on is still laying behind the shed at my fathers farm. Maybe if I take lots of pictures and pray to the transmission gods I might get away with it. The parts book and the factory manual do not give a very good idea of how to align the shifter cams and dogs. The Clymer manual is just about as vague. The next option is to pay somebody to do it but I'm a poor boy and can just barely afford the crank rebuild and the parts. It would be nice to pressure wash the cases to make them look nicer. Thanks again.
I just got back from a 5 week trip on my other bike, the Bloop hasn't been started for that long. When I tried to start it, it choked on a lot of two stroke oil. As I suspected above, the check valve was not doing it's job. The crankcase had a lot of extra oil in it. I replaced the check valve with another one, now works fine, oil doesn't run through when priming the system. Is there any way to check these valves?
John,
Looks like that auction is up. Found a different one though. Feels like christmas! Anyone got any ideas what to check for with the shifting issues? Thanks!
I have been given the honor of restoring a buddy's original unmolested 69 T350. Cosmetically in great shape but parked for 20 years. I did all the usuals- drained old gas, flushed tank and petcock, replaced fuel lines and added filters, changed tranny oil, did a thorough carb cleaning etc. Prob is, at idle, left cylinder wont run but will at higher rpm with lots of smoke on that side. Good compression but very little vacuum on left carb. Sounds like bad outer crank seal right? I have never worked on a "T" and have no shop manual. Can the seal be replaced without splitting the cases and can I still get a seal? Could someone walk me through this... its not my bike and I'd hate to screw it up.
thanks,
-John
I haven't tried it but I belive it is possible to change the left oilseal without splitting the cases. Paul Miller should be able to supply a set of oil seals.
The left cyllinder has the vacum connection for the petcock, a leak in the petcock membrane or the vacum line might cause your trouble.
I have a T350 factory manual, I'll see if I can scan it for you later.
that would be a big help, at least a breakdown under the left side cover- just in case. The right carb runs fine at idle, both are drawing fuel and brand new lines. Believe me, I wish it wasnt a seal but Im not that lucky!
-John
I just got through tearing my T350 engine apart and I went out and looked at the cases and crank seals that just came out. There is a shallow groove in the bottom crankcase that the seal compresses into when the two halves of the crankcase are bolted together. It might cause some trouble when you try to pull the seal out. I don't know what the groove is for but it is there. It might be there to help locate the seal so it doesn't try to work itself out when under pressure. It took a pretty sharp rap to unseat the crank when I took it apart. The fit of the seal is very tight so putting it back in might be tough without damaging it. Good luck, I hope it works out well for you.
Thanks,
Called PM and actually talked to someone there! He said he has seals and the cases would need to be split as the seals have a lip.
BTW, its a '71 not a '69 .
I figure Ill track down a shop manual.
Anything I should look out for as I go through this thing...?
-John
Can't remember a lip on the seal from when I had mine apart in april
I think I remember that someone here replaced a seal with a lip and then just cut of the lip and used sealant to keep it in place.
I will try to scan the manual for you, I'm just a bit slow when the weather is hot.
The most difficult part of splitting the cases and getting the engine back again was actualy putting on the carburator air boot.
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