Suzuki 2 Strokes

Lookin' great!

I had to seal up the interior of the tank (a KZ400 tank) going onto my T500 as well as it seeped and weeped once gas went in. Used the Caswell stuff too. There was a more detailed set of instructions ( http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/do-it- ... ing.39660/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ) that a buddy put me onto--- which I found useful----I mean you really only have one go at sealing, right?

Interested to know how this battery eliminator will work out for you!

jabcb wrote:Did you upgrade to a modern rectifier/regulator?

Yes, I am using the street version of the powerdynamo electronic ignition that comes with a separate regulator/ rectifier unit. They said a capacitor isn't necessarily needed but you may run into issues if using LED lights, which I am.

another update. Got most of my powder coated items back last week. Everything except the upper triple tree, which had to be re-done again (for the third time). For whatever reason, the top tree keeps getting bubbles in the powder so they have redone it. The color is called Kromazone with a clear gloss top coat. Got everything all installed back together. Still have to torque the cylinders down and set the timing on the power dynamo.

The wiring harness was completely made from scratch. I have it wrapped in electrical tape and zip tied to the frame. All new electronics include headlight, ignition switch, power dynamo ignition, Bat Pak capacitor, LED flasher relay, switches, etc. I still plan on going without tach or speedo, but I may change that in the future. The upper triple will have a mount for possible future gauges. Depends on how well it runs and whether I feel I need a tachometer. Probably don't need a speedo.

Otherwise, Still waiting on the rearsets from the UK and my tins were dropped off at painter. He is going to sketch up a few drawings for me to look over and get it painted. Other than that, she is done. I really, really wanted to enter it into the brewtown rumble show in Milwaukee on May 15th, but I doubt that will happen unless several key things fall into place within the next week or two.

does anyone have any advice or links to brake setup? Both the front and rear need to be dialed in. In particular the rear is missing the little hash marks in the brake arm and brake plate that show where they are supposed to line up with each other. Currently its pointing down as seen in pic above. I would love to see some closeup pictures of how the arm is supposed to be positioned relative to the brake plate.

Here's THE tip for drum brakes. (Obviously you need the correct lining material, this depends on expected usage, -road, race etc). And obviously the drum braking track and linings need to be in good nick.
Once you have the shoes relined they should be installed on the brakeplate, then the brakeplate needs to be set up on a lathe, (You'll need to make up a fitting probably, to fit the chuck, s/s as the spindle that can be tightened enough so the brakeplate doesn't wobble), -you then need to shim the brake arm so that it is just opening, (perhaps 3-8mm movement of the arm, but that's a matter of judgement).
Then with fine cuts, carefully turn the linings down the minimum amount to get an even all over even smooth cut.
The whole point of this is to get the brake shoes/linings dead circular WHEN THE SHOES ARE EXPANDED, not circular when the shoes are 'at rest'. If they are circular at rest, they will not be circular when expanded and you'll be losing contact area. This is about getting maximum contact area between shoes and drum. Sure, if you run the bike long enough, eventually the linings will wear to a point when they are circular when the brake is applied, but that could be a long time!
Make sense?
-Jools

The trick with the arm is to remember that maximum effort is when the cable and arm are at 90 degrees. So if it starts at 90 degrees as the brake is applied, the force reduces (proportionately) or at least doesn't increase.

So position the arm on the splines so that as you stand on the brake hard/as it wears, it gets closer to 90 degrees and never goes past that point. If you come to see that 160, I'll show you what I was trying to describe there.

tz375 wrote:The trick with the arm is to remember that maximum effort is when the cable and arm are at 90 degrees. So if it starts at 90 degrees as the brake is applied, the force reduces (proportionately) or at least doesn't increase.

So position the arm on the splines so that as you stand on the brake hard/as it wears, it gets closer to 90 degrees and never goes past that point. If you come to see that 160, I'll show you what I was trying to describe there.

thanks, good advice. Previous bikes have all had little hash marks in the arm and the spline so you could just line them up. This one did not and I didn't know where to start out. I will dial it back away several degrees from 90 degrees downward and start from there.

I am still thinking about your CB160. Just have a lot on my plate right now and I apologize for not getting back to you. Probably don't need another old bike in my garage right now, but I will let you know.

another small update. Completely finished wiring. Got my new tail lights installed. See fifth picture down. These things are tiny and function as running, stop and turn signals. They have built in red and amber LED bulbs.

Also finally got my rearsets from Titan yesterday. Installed them last night. First impression- these things are really well made. Solid, functional and look great. Couple issues I have to work through on them. On the left side, the kickstarter just makes contact with the tip of the gearshift toe lever. See forth picture down. Not sure what I will do to sort this out yet. On the right side- the spring hole on the rearsets for the brake switch doesn't really seem to move downward much when I depress lever, so I am not sure how this will actually engage the brake switch. I have to get a spring from the hardware store today and sort that out. Overall, these are nice rearsets. Just be prepared to wait for them- mine took over three months.

Only piece of the puzzle yet are the tins. The painter is working on them. Supposedly they are smoothed over and primed. Just waiting on a couple sketches from him regarding a scheme.

I entered the bike in the Brewtown Rumble in Milwaukee, which is coming up rather quickly in a couple weeks. Hope to rig up a shop fuel tank and get it started this weekend for the first time.

Any suggestions on proper protocol for starting up and running an engine that has been completely rebuilt for the first time?

Man that frame weld makes you want to weep!

How long did it take to get the rearsets?

joolstacho wrote:Man that frame weld makes you want to weep!

frankly, none of the welds look great from the factory either. The chrome powder shows every single imperfection. I never professed to be a professional welder but it will do the trick.

jabcb wrote:How long did it take to get the rearsets?

Over three months, so plan ahead

Picture from the painter today. Nothing exciting. Tins have been sprayed with epoxy primer

joolstacho wrote:Man that frame weld makes you want to weep!

I was trying not to say anything

Suzukidave wrote:

joolstacho wrote:Man that frame weld makes you want to weep!

I was trying not to say anything

Yet, you did

I agree it looks like crap. I don't make any excuses for it. Structurally it will hold. Thank you for noticing.