Front's GT750B restoration in progress.

[Cliff]

Wish I had a lathe!! I used a disc grinder to turn down my steering stems on both the GT550 and GT750!
If you didn't turn down the stem far enough down, the upper bearing will bottom out against the shoulder and the upper triple tree won't clamp down on the headlamp ears.
Can anyone tell us what the bearing preload adjustment should be with tapered bearings?

[sfront]

Stem is turned down per the instructions (.964 OD to the .630 point) and I can tighten
the nut up to the point of the front end getting tight to turn.
I guess I could set up to counterbore the neck a little deeper but it'll be awhole lot
easier to make a thin spacer and insert an oring at the bottom of the headlight ears!

[two-stroke-brit]

Stem is turned down per the instructions (.964 OD to the .630 point) and I can tighten
the nut up to the point of the front end getting tight to turn.
I guess I could set up to counterbore the neck a little deeper but it'll be awhole lot
easier to make a thin spacer and insert an oring at the bottom of the headlight ears!

I have ordered a set myself, so do you need to turn the stem down to suit the new bearings .
where was the info or was it trial and error?.
thanks mark

[sfront]

Instructions are in the package.
Like I said though.....if you don't have the capability to do the mod
it sure would have been nice to know in the first place!
The kit comes with two seals also and I think that's about how much
the stackup is off.
I worked on Saturday and went dirt bike riding today.
I'll take a look at it tomorrow after work and let you know what I figure out.

[sfront]

Here's my fix for the taller triple tree stackup due to the new tapered bearings.
.03 thick aluminum spacer and a .094 think oring.



Worked fine.



Bucket installed.



Tank back from the painters! Looks great......no wash or wax yet....attracts dust better than my wifes vacuum cleaner!!





I'm gonna have to get off my ass and get the chrome sent out..........

[sfront]

Decide to pay some attention to the engine this weekend.
She ran great but while she's out I figures I'd check her over.
First thing: Pressure check to make sure the crank seals are ok.
Here's my test set up.
I've used the bulb and gauge for years to set the pop off pressure on carbs.
Added a spark plug antifouler tip, a 3/8 to 1/4 npt bushing and a 1/4 npt hose barb.



Throw in a couple of expanding rubber freeze plugs. Viola!




After pumping up the first cylinder and hearing it leaking into the next cylinder I'm thinking @!*&! bad seals........until it finally dawns on me to pull the SRIS hoses and plug them too!
Different story now! No leaks! All three cylinders hold 6-7 psi, no problem.



Now I can pull the head and cylinder block off to clean them up.
Head comes off really easy....only two head bolts being stubborn.



Its surprisingly clean inside! A little carbon on top of the pistons but nothing on the head that does just wipe right off.

Now getting the block off is a completely different story!
After soaking all the studs with penetrating oil and wacking the block with a rubber hammer it hasn't budged.
Time to make a tool!



I didn't want to booger up the top of the studs so I cut 1.0 inch long pieces of .50 diameter aluminum rod and put them on top of the studs before bolting the plate down to the block.
This baby was stuck good!!!! There's no way it would have come off without the puller.




Once it started moving, I only had to use the two outside jackscrews to finish.



Everything looks pretty good inside. I'll throw the head and the block in the carb cleaner before shining them up. Probably the pistons too.
Stock bore too!




I still have to send the chrome out!!!!! I know I'm gonna be waiting on it..........

[two-stroke-brit]

i like your idea of the ali spacers to take the abuse rather than the studs .
and if you counterbore them a bit to suit the studs and bolts it will prevent a bolt slipping of and damaging the casting.
cheers mark

[sfront]

Finally got the chrome sent out.......four weeks wait and I don't want to discuss the price!
I bought a little plating kit from Eastwood.
The thing works pretty good!
I've been plating all the nuts and bolts, spacers, etc.




I even plated the starter cover. (It looks better than this picture) I'll get another picture next time I get a chance.



I got the head and the block all clean, polished and painted.





Also started putting the wiring harness back on the frame.





Got the tank cover assembled too! (notice all the plated parts!)



There's a whole lot more pix on Photobucket

[sfront]

Restoring a bike can become addictive!
It's like "What can I get done today???!!!!" Everyday.
Oh well, I guess it could be worse.....drugs, booze......
Although a booze habit might not cost as much!
But then again there is no resale value in that.
Here's a little more completed today.

Top case painted........(my bottom case was not painted)







More home brew plating.....Head bolt seal washers, etc.



Cleaned and flushed the oil injection plumbing and pump.
Purge and install maybe tomorrow......



Put the handlebars, gauge cluster (I think the 'cluster' portion is in the headlite!)
I'm mean really.....the factory couldn't tidy this up to start with????





I had to throw the tank on so the wife could see I am actually making some headway!
She looked at the bike sans tank and says 'It looks like a skeleton'
I say yeah.......a Buffalo skeleton! She didn't get it. I had to explain.



Anyone have a USA grab rail they want to part with?
Also I have the Vetter faring and the luggage rack that I'm going to part with if anyone is interested........

[Wingspan]

I've got the same Eastwood plating kit on order, should get it any day. I can't wait to give it a try on my T500's nasty old bolts.

The bike looks great, well done.

[sfront]

Just a a few quick learned lessons on the plating......

1: If there's ANY rust left on the part it will still be there when the rest of the part is plated.
Bead blasting works best, but its tough to hold a M6 lock washer in thick rubber gloves!
I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder with good results.

2: They include a tube of metal polish to finish the plated parts. A soft wire tooth brush works 10x faster.
If you have to have a part really shiny still use the wire brush first and then the metal polish.
Nuts and bolts come out great with only the brush.

3: The big copper alligator clip will become really overplated and unusable in a short period of time.
Get some cheap alligator clips and make jumper wires.

4: Have a container of water ready and when the parts come out of the plating solution, just dump them into the water for a few minutes before finishing them.

I've plated over 50 nuts/bolts/covers etc.......I've just ordered more zinc bars.....and just replaced the batteries.
You'll find yourself going in circles to keep the plater fed.
I usually have music playing in the shop and it takes about one song per part!

[Wingspan]

Thanks for the tips! What sort of arrangement (container, clips, etc) are you using to plate the larger items such as motormount bolts?

[sfront]

I used a plastic Akro bin but any plastic container will work.
You could also just plate half the bolt and then turn it over and plate the other half.
As long as you keep an eye on the process there won't even be a blend line.

[Wingspan]

I used a plastic Akro bin but any plastic container will work.
You could also just plate half the bolt and then turn it over and plate the other half.
As long as you keep an eye on the process there won't even be a blend line.

Sounds good. My plating kit arrived this morning. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

[jaybob]

You are working on that thing like a demon. Excellent job!! Wish I could summon up that kind of motivation.