Suzuki 2 Strokes

As low of mileage as this bike has, it is amazing how many things have been goobered by the POs.

Such things as the clutch plates and washers for the clutch installed wrong. Broken bolts throughout the motor.

AAAAAArrrrrrrrrggggggggghhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!

Good looking bike Eric, it's nice seeing things done well. I never had one of these but I had a GS1100 and it was a sweet bike.

My in-laws lived in Sanford for 10 years! My favorite place to visit in early February...

Finally moving along on the bike. Got the motor done and running and found out a few more things messed up by the PO. Got a new fuse box comming from e-bay. Fixed a few loose wires. Good used tank comming from e-bay as well. diamondj, the one that way grey and black the guy e-mailed me on the WERA board and dropped the price to $125 shipped, so got it. Should be on the road minus windscreen by this weekend.

Forgot just how busy a 4 stroke was. Hadn't rebuilt one in 10 years. Used to only do them till I got my first two-stroke.

Awesome, looking good, Eric.

Well got the original tank sealed, somewhat as the one from Canada has not gotten here yet, and took it out yesterday and last night. Ran well and then on the way home the reg/rec took a dump as no lights for the last 8miles of my 25 mile right in the dark. Good thing the alternator was still sending juice as the motor kept running.

Then this morning I went into the garage to check the charging (only 12.39v and nothing more as I ran it up to 3k) and the gas tank started to leak.

Guess I need a new reg/rec and have to wait for the gas tank to get here to ride it again. Boy was it fun. Haven't been on a liter bike for about 11 years. The GS1150 is a hoot. Gotta get a 15t front though as the 14t really makes it quite torquey.

Got the charging taken care of. Loose wiring from the stator to the harness. One crisis averted. But...the carbs are beginning to piss me off. They had a jet kit put in and trying to get them to work with a stock airbox is a pain. The slides were drilled and now have an insert to put them back to stock specs. The pilots are stock now as well as are the pilot air jets. Just the slide needles are the Dynojet and are thinner than stock ones. The dynojet mains listed are dyonjet sizes and not mikuni sizes for their reasons of not copying their kit. So now I have to find the correct jet size.

Stock jets are 120 to 122.5 but these are much to rich causing excess fuel in the pipes and flames with backfiring. I am down to 110s and still to rich. Finding the proper low speed is also a pain. I am 2.5 turns out on the fuel screws with 115 pilot jet screws. If I had a set of 120s it may make it better. Leaner. All I have is the 160s from the Dyno kit.

Anyone got a set of Suzuki 5D14 slide needles?

Well CV carbs suck, especially after a PO buggered with them first. Found a graph and the corresponding mikuni jet for the dynojet DJ114 is a Mikuni 105. Stock jetting with the 5D14 stock jet is 120 and with the Dynojet needle it a 105. So that is right now and I think the pilots will need to go up to a 47.5 as the fuel screws are now out to 2.75 and stock is 2 turns.

The big hangup is still unburnt fuel in the exhaust and sloppy midrange. No adjustment on the needle helps. The slide holes were drilled and an insert was put in. I now feel that the new hole is too small causing the slide to rise too slow allowing too little air in and making the mixture too rich. So now I have to find the right drill to get this hole to the right stock size. I have nothing to go by. A set of drills and trial and error.

I can now take these carbs in and out from five miles away in my sleep I have done it so much.

Eric,

On CV carbs main jet size has an impact all the way through the rev range. That has to be close to spot on before you try to get the midrange correct. Holes in the slide let them open faster but that also lets more air in, so that may not be the problem that it appears to be. In a static mode ie constant rpm load and throttle position, the holes should make zero difference.

If you have access to a dyno, that might be the fastest way to get the top end right and would tell you what's happening at part throttle too.

Here is the cart showing differences in the jet sizes. Dynjet gives you a 110 and a 114 for stock pipes and 4-1 with a stage I kit. I have a factory airfilter which is more restrictive than a K&N of course. So the slides are drilled the needles on 3 and fuel screws on 2.5. Still fuel in exhaust but now at 4-5K rpm. In there right now are 105 mikunis and I believe that I may have to go to 100 or 97.5 due to the thinner slide needle.

Now I hope someone in town has a set as I don't have 102.5 to 97.5 in my box.

http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/show ... hp?t=64769

That chart is a little misleading. I wonder where he found that chart and how they came up with those numbers.

It's correct that Keihin use hole diameter and the conversion from inches to mm is close enough in that column, but how on earth did they conclude that any/all Mikuni jets are also based on diameter but happen to be slightly smaller.

Large round are the same as Keihin more or less ie they are numbered in mm sizes, I'd have to borrow an optical comparator to measure the diameter accurately to confirm the exact diameter and compare those numbers to a keihin.

Hold on. I realize what they are saying. A Mikuni Large round jet is also numbered in mm sizes, they flow slightly more than a Keihin main jet because the flow characteristics are different. Therefore a #100 Mikuni Round will flow slightly more than a Keihin #100. That is very possible but you would need a flow rig to verify that. That is quite possible.

Hex jets are flow rated. Hex jet with a 2.00 bore would be numbered somewhere around 400 or so.

Scored another set of carbs on e-bay, should be here this week. Also major exhaust leaks from the spigot to header mounting area. Going to seal that. Should really make a difference in scavenging and cause less fuel in the header. Hope the gas tank from Canada gets here too this week as I can't get mine to stop leaking for more than a week. Held up by the mail labor dispute in Cananda. And the back log may have an effect as well. But I can hope.

Some good news. Tank was in the yard when I got home. It is perfect, minor scuffs. So now my bike will be red,white,black and blue. Looking like someone just beat it up. Will ride it like that when I get the carbs sorted until I get my GT250/350 done and then will strip the GS dowm and paint it in Heron colors in this Euro pattern on the GSX1100EF.



I have a chin fairing but need the lower fairing side to complete the body set. Where the white stripes seperate the black and red will be the yellow and white stripe instead.

Got the GS1150 carbs from e-bay today and they were totally stock except for the main jets. Installed the unmolested slides with stock needles in my carbs and upped the mains from stock 120 to 125s. Bike would pull wheelies when cold but would loose power when hot. Found #1 cyl to fire intermittenly. #4 fires fine. So the Dyna and Coil are not the problem. My two suspects are bad coil wire and or bad plug cap. Plug has been changed twice so that is not the problem. The other problem could be tight valves on that cylinder as I had the valves reground and now they may have seated as I put on nearly 150 miles on it. I will recheck the valves tomorrow and the plug cap and wire and hope that takes care of the problem.

Again good spark, good compression, valves check out perfect. Still dropping #1. Pulled off carbs and cleaned #1 again and checked all jets and carb float level. Put back on and the same.

Took carbs back off and installed #1 from bank of ebay carbs after a complete clean. SCORE!!!!!! Bike now runs on all four. Gonna ride tonight.