Cylinder/head studs on Suzi T20

[doug rooney]

Have plenty of spark, fuel but compression seems to be low but not on every stroke unless my compression guage is off?? Can have less than 30psi, then will jump up over 60psi? Have torqued the cylinder studs quite a few times on this beast. Should they be replaced? can they stretch? Has to be a leak somewhere? Anyone? Thanks

[Craig380]

Are those readings with the engine hot? I was always told to do compression tests only when the motor's fully warm. Should be about 110psi after 5 or 6 quick kicks, and no more than 10% between the readings for each cylinder.

Does it fire up OK?

[doug rooney]

Whoa, glad I asked. Was testing it cold and this is gonna sound real stupid so sorry....I "thought" one kick gave me the reading and I would release the air each time. Craig, are you saying to "pump it up" 5-6 times BEFORE letting the air out? It is a screw in type Pedro. This has been my issue for a long time and back to putzing with it....Runs on one side or the other except if I give it good throttle, then will be burning on both sides but one side is usually missing a bit. Have those gizmos attached to the plugs where you can SEE the spark and it's real good on BOTH sides. What does the throttle being open have to do with the compression Pedro? Thanks guys

[Craig380]

Hi Doug, yes, the motor should be fully warm, ignition OFF, then fit the gauge and kick the engine over 7 or 8 times in quick succession, one kick right after the last with throttle WFO. I think it needs to be WFO so the cylinder can draw a proper "lungfull".

If you watch the gauge, the needle should rise after each of the first 3 or 4 kicks, then will probably stabilise after 5 or so.

[doug rooney]

Gotcha Craig! Let you know what I find tomorrow when I try it this way. Thanks

[doug rooney]

I have 120 psi in the left and 110# in the right. As of this morning, I tried different points on the right side (again) and firing well on the left but not the right. That is subject to changing back to firing right and not left???? Have been looking for a ground out problem and haven't found it yet.

[Suzukidave]

This my be a issue just like the 500 that if it doesnt have a good fully charged battery one or the other cylinder will not run or drop out at idle .

[doug rooney]

Took the battery out yesterday as I was thinking the same thing Dave. Tested out at over 14v.

Has spark at both points but can see intermittent spark NOT at the contact area but on the springy part that is screwed onto the lower half of points. Am thinking it almost HAS to be grounding out there somehow but so far haven't figured it out???

[jabcb]

Make sure you've connected the points up correctly as shown in the pic. Not shown in the pic is another insulator for the bolt shaft.

PointDiagram1.jpg

[doug rooney]

I have my condensor connectors on the same side as the "springy" thing. Can't thing that would make a difference?? Otherwise, it looks the same.

[H2RICK]

An easy check for a points grounding problem is to remove the points assembly and condensor from the backing plate. Insert a piece of dry card stock (un unwaxed business card works nicely) in between the points contact surfaces.
Turn your key on and use your voltmeter to check for voltage from the BASE of the point set to an engine ground. Got ANY voltage ?? Then you've got a problem with your hot wire to the points OR the wire retaining bolt OR both grounding to the base plate of the points somewhere/somehow. You MAY have a missing/damaged cylindrical insulator that fits around the bolt INSIDE the hole that the bolt passes through. This is the most common problem with grounding-out point sets....but not the only one.

[doug rooney]

thanks for the tip Rick. Will check that out tomorrow and get back to ya.

[doug rooney]

Jeeper guys, I did as Rick advised and had no voltage. Have virtually no resistance in any wires from the switch to the points. Only wires I have not checked are those behind the stator/generator but they are for lights and such. NOt sure if any of those matter??? Took some pics but of course I haven't figured out how to get the dang things to go anywhere. Still working on that. Have tried 2 different stators on this thing, different points and condensors, new ROTOR, different switch, different coils, plugs and wires all over the place and still the same. Right now, running very well on right side but intermittent at best on left (That can change to the OTHER side at any time). Must admit I have the heads torqued to about twice what the specs call for in trying to get a good seal when I thought it was compression. Some small wiring issue but I can't find it with my limited knowledge. Have the wiring diagram and "think" I have it right but who knows?? Tried different things in the switch area (moving wires around) today to no avail. Maybe when and if I get those pictures, someone can show me what I'm doing wrong. Thanks for hanging with me.....Running out of ideas of things to try today. PICS PICS PICS!!!! FREAKIN PICS!!! I detest high tech! LOL! Doug

[doug rooney]

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/a ... C00506.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Sorry this is not good quality and haven't figured out how to post actual pic, rather than link yet. Have 2 other pics if you click "next". Can also see all my other pics I guess. Will try again if this is of no help. Thanks guys

[doug rooney]

http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/ankhe105/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Any better?