Quick (temporary) method for setting timing

[jmcgill89]

I'm having to completely redo the points gaps (there were very small gaps if any) and consequently the timing on my 1974 GT550.

I have now gotten the points to about .014", but now I'm looking for a way to quickly eyeball the timing. The GT550 manual only gives the dial gauge/"sound box" method. I just want to get it close enough to get it running right now before I really get in there and dial it in.

Is there a way to do this using the timing marks in there?

Thanks,

Joe

[Coyote]

Yes Joe. Remeber to time the left first. Slowly bring the crank around till the timing mark "L" aligns with the cast in poiner in the window. Hook up a tester to the left side points. Loosen the 3 screws that retain the plate and rotate the plate till they just open (going by your tester). Tighten the 3 screws and go around again to double check that the points just "break" at the timing mark. Next do the center and right, only this time you will me using the points adjustin screws to dial it in.
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[Craig380]

What Coyote said above.

If you don't have a tester, just get any old transistor radio, set it to the AM band and tune it so you get static hiss. Place radio on the saddle near the gas tank.

Turn ignition on, and SLOWLY turn the engine via the kickstart. At the exact moment the points open and fire the coils, you'll hear a crack or pop from the radio (caused by the RFI from the coils). Check the timing marks to see exactly when the crack / pop happens, and adjust accordingly.

[jmcgill89]

Thanks guys!

I'm hoping that my poor/rough running was partly the result of having next to no points gap on any of the breakers....

New points gaps and approximate timing should really help....at least in the short term.

Joe

[jmcgill89]

Would a GT550 pull fairly well (to an inexperienced rider) if it was only running on 2 cylinders? While it was idling the other night, I pulled the plug wire off the right cylinder, and it only sputtered for about 10 seconds and then died.

[H2RICK]

Would a GT550 pull fairly well (to an inexperienced rider) if it was only running on 2 cylinders?

Yes it will, Joe.....but it'll sound "lumpy"......almost like a hot rodded V8 with a high lift cam.

[jmcgill89]

EUREKA!

After getting the points set last night, I tried to fire it up on a whim when I got home. Not only did it start 100% easier, but the miss/popping was gone, and it actually sounded good. Smoke was reduced about 60%.

I had to have been running on just 2 cylinders and even they were operating intermittently at that.

I can't wait to set this thing up with that basic timing method and take it for a real ride!!!!!!!

[Coyote]

Mine actually runs better using the OEM timing marks. I think that's because the timing is slightly retarded. Plus it's easy to dial in using an automotive timing light.

[H2RICK]

Plus it's easy to dial in using an automotive timing light.

Ya know, I always seem to get more accurate results and a smoother running engine using the stock timing marks and an ohmmeter or a dial gauge and an ohmmeter. Maybe it's just me.....
A timing light is a must-have IF you've got an advance mechanism in your ignition (like my KZ650) only to check that the advancer is working correctly......but our Suzis don't have such a device so I've not used a light on my 550 since way back when I first got it.
My .02 worth....

[jmcgill89]

Heck,

I'm just using a dome light from a car with alligator clips soldered on either end...One side to the points the other to the ground. I've been setting the timing on my Volkswagens for years using that method. Seems to work just fine.

[H2RICK]

Absolutely, Joe. The test-light setup works like a charm....however.....
the factory timing marks on the 3 bladed "propellor" on these bikes are NOT necessarily completely accurate. If you disassemble the ignition, you'll see that there's a certain amount of play in the mounting arrangement for the "propellor"......and that's where the problems arise.
A dial gauge AND your test light system (or an analog ohmmeter) is the MOST accurate method, IMO, but in the end we are NOT dealing with engines requiring Moto GP accuracy here.....right??

[rbond]

I had set the timing on my GT500 by the marks, ran OK. Finally got the time to do it with a timing light, according to it the timing was retarded too much. Moved the stator plate forward a little, checked again with the light, spot on! Tried once with a 'dial indicator' of sorts, ran like a sick dog and pinged like crazy. Turns out to be a combination new carb to airfilter boot and re-setting the timing. It had never run this good as long as I had it. (4 years now) Must have had an air leak with the old boot. Still on the same plugs (electrodes still look good, good color on the insulators too) with about 7000 miles added to it since I got the bike. My .02 worth.

[elbert]

I use a gauge to check the timing marks and if neccesary use a white paint marker to make new ones if the original is to much off. Then i use a timing light (strobe light)when adjusting the timing.
Reason for this is that there is always some play in the points mechanism and although the timing might look good when you turn the engine by hand it might be off a few degrees when the engine is running.