Rectofier

Helix · Post by **Helix** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 3:38 pm

Would a 72 gt550 rectofier fit a late 74 gt550.

They look different in design but I was wondering if the older one would be compatible on my 74.

Thanks

Post by **oldjapanesebikes** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 3:53 pm

As long as it checks out electrically it should be OK. What's wrong with the old one ? if you want a new one, Oregon Motorsis where I bought my last one. $45.50 USD, drop in fit and works fine.

Helix · Post by **Helix** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 3:54 pm

Battery wont charge.
Stator is working fine.

jkevinlilly · Post by **jkevinlilly** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 4:53 pm

My 76 550 had a bad rectifier once. The bike would run all day with the headlight off, would only make it a mile or two with the headlight on, and then acted like it ran out of gas and died. Does yours do that??

Kevin

Helix · Post by **Helix** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 5:05 pm

Don't know

Just seams to slowly drain the battery.
Never had the lights on, it was its first run in 13 years today.

Coyote · Post by **Coyote** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:05 pm

I would more likely suspect the voltage regulator. Do you have a volt meter? You should be checking well over 13 volts at the battery with the engine running at 2500 rpm. There are ways to check all that stuff and both the Denso and Kokusan regulators are adjustable (to a point).
I am not 100% certain on this but I think all the rectifier really does is convert AC to DC. Then the DC voltage is sent to the regulator. The regulator controls how much of the voltage bleeds through to the battery.
None of it is rocket science. We should be able to help you out.

Helix · Post by **Helix** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:10 pm

Listn I am appreciating all of your help.
Trying to soak it all in.

I get a reading of 12.2 volts at 2500rpm

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:51 pm

Just so you know Oregon also have electronic regulators, these are better at charging in the lower rpm range than the old manual contact ones on the bikes.
They also have a"pot" on them to fine tune the output slightly to your specific needs.
Also check the rectifier socket carefully as they like to melt from high resistance due to dirty or loose connections.

Post by **oldjapanesebikes** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:59 pm

Helix wrote:Just seams to slowly drain the battery.
Never had the lights on, it was its first run in 13 years today.

OK - following along from what other folks have offered, what I'd try to do would be to:

1) take a look at the Suzuki service manual which you can find online on this board here

2) take all the wiring harness connectors apart, clean them with some electrical contact cleaner and then apply some dielectric grease to the connectors, and then put them back together - I buy my dielectric grease at Canadian Tire, but any auto parts store will have it and a small tube lasts forever

3) following the instructions in the manual - check your rectifier - this is outlined on page 87 on my hard copy which matches the on line at the link in bullet 1 - you will need a meter - I'll make a guess here, and say yours is probably OK, but if you check it then you'll know for sure

4) like Coyote, I suspect the most likely suspect is the regulator and it is adjustable - sort of - the instructions for adjusting it are in the service manual around page 88. It isn't hard to do, but there isn't a lot of available adjustment, and seem to recall that there are two different regulators used by Suzuki. The adjustment is different, but they are similar enough it shouldn't be a problem

5) I bought the electronic regulator from Oregon at the same time I bought one of his rectifiers, and the nice thing about it is it does hold a steady output regardless of engine revs, which the mechanical ones tend not to so as well (at least at low RPM)

6) its possible that it is neither the rectifier or the regulator which potentially could be a real pain - the instructions for checking the stator are on pages 86 and 87 - also double check the brushes - there has to be some material there, and they also have to slide freely in their holder to make good contact on the rotor

Hope that helps - good luck !

Coyote · Post by **Coyote** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 7:24 am

I get a reading of 12.2 volts at 2500rpm

Does the voltage reading increase as the RPMs increase or does it stay the same. I have seen some thet even drop as the RPMs are increased. If the voltage remains the same or drops as you increase the throttle, you can be 95% sure that the regulator is the culprit.

rngdng · Post by **rngdng** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:28 am

If it's draining the battery as it sits, the rectifier can do that. A shorted diode will drain the battery.

Lane

Helix · Post by **Helix** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:02 am

Hi Guys.

I will do the testing tonight or tomorrow, once I know more I will let you know.

Helix · Post by **Helix** » Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:58 pm

I followed everyones advice and the problem was with the Rectifier

Ohh Man I happy now

Thanks for your help

skids · Post by **skids** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 4:35 pm

I just had the same problem with my gt500, the battery wasn't being charged. I thought it was the regulator but the problem turned out to be a bad rectifier.

One thing I did learn from this is that the regulators have become as rare as hens teeth, so if you find one grab it. You might not be able to find it later.

Helix · Post by **Helix** » Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:17 pm

Hi

The rectifier was the problem with my bike.

I think I will buy a new one.