Archived Posts

[Admin]

lie the carb on the intake side (with the float pin down). the float should seat the needle without overcoming the spring in the centre of the needle.

[Admin]

Joe. Another trick is to use an old float needle. Put a drop of super glue where the spring loaded plunger enters the needle. In a minute, you will have a solid unit. Use this to set your float heights. You won't get any false readings due to the springs. When the height is correct, remove the glued needle and pop the new one in place.

[Admin]

I think I've bought my last 30 year old NOS rubber part. Those GT500 fork boots I "won" on eBay are already starting to split. Does anyone remember who it was who made the repros and showed them on this forum?

Stu

[Admin]

Stu,

Sorry to hear it. This was the guy making the repros:

http://vancouver.globat.com/~sundialmot ... gt500+fork

Jim

[Admin]

Thanks a bunch, Jim.

Stu

[Admin]

Tin worm on the rear fender




and on the front fender



I've started an album at http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d164/ ... ki%20T250/

[Admin]

I want to make these in small quantities, for the different bikes. I am planning to make permanent molds from aluminum, then pour/inject the material, then spin the mold so the air pockets are eliminated,

Only thing I haven't got figured out yet is the makeup of the material, so it doesn't do the cracking. There are all sorts of pour-able urethanes and rubbers, but which one?

[Admin]

I tend to agree with Craig that the problem is in the choke circuit or the pilot jet.
Thanks Everyone
Joe

I could be mistaken, but I don't think either the choke or pilot circuits could be responsible for flooding the crankcase while the engine isn't running. The main suspect in that scenario would be the Keyster fuel inlet needles/seats.

Stu

[Admin]

After soaking the carbs and installing the new parts the engine started on the first kick. Either both carbs had a blockage in the same place or the keyster needle valves were faulty. I rode the bike 15 miles this morning and it ran real good. I installed new fork seals during the rebuild and the left one is leaking, so this afternoon I'm going to replace it. I'll post some pictures of the bike when I'm done.
Joe

[Admin]

Nitrile is fuel and oil proof, most of your o-rings are made of it.

[Admin]

Nitrile is good, but may not be the right gourmet recipe. These would also need to be impervious to heat, cold, ozone (smog), and other vile and bad stuff.

I have to investigate what the dirt bike full length bellows type covers are made of, they seem to be good stuff, live relatively long lives, and stay flexible as well.

[Admin]

Hey gang.
Ive been having issues with my Titans carbs for a while, and was wondering if you all could give me any ideas. I'm running stock jets with the needle in leanest position. Slides open in unison and bike idles at nicely. No air leaks but a slight exhaust leak where the left header snugs the pipe. 1\8 to 1\2 throttle engine sounds sputtery with no response. 1\2 to full throttle is stellar. Raising the needle makes the problem worse, which makes me think I need to go leaner still, but I cant see using a leaner pilot jet on a stock motor. Plugs look great, but i haven t chopped them. Any ideas?
Thanks

[Admin]

i have a set off some old British bike on mine. they fit but i had to use clamps to hold them on.

[Admin]

I can't WAIT to get mine running.

Soon!

[Admin]

pleased to here that joe,
its great feeling you get her running after a little let and restoration.
I had problems some thing like that.
she would run for about 3 or 4 miles then conk out ,after about 2 to 5 minutes would do the same again.what should taken 20 minuts to get home..it took me nearly an hour.
it turned out that the float needle was sticking and float height was set to low..put a new keyster needles in etc and she ran great ever since.
I've had other teething problems but got them all sorted then (2004)