GT750 Drag Bike

[water cooled]

Dave, that's exactly the idea. I know that setup was used for a sidecar where the radiator was relocated but that's it. If the top-hat is large enough, it can hold a small surplus of water when the motor heats up. Theres not much room with the fuel tank in so I am thinking about cutting the bottom out of the tank to allow a longer radiator inlet neck that extends up and then use a small aluminum tank from D&G to supply fuel over on the LH side. The fuel tank will just be a shell to maintain the GT look. I have a 1974 tank that I can use for the mock-up. If it all works, it will be kind of trick....i think...

[tz375]

Kevin, I have a bottomless 74 tank with your name on it sitting here. I did plan on making a C/F shell and mold but that hasn't happened yet. Let me know when you need it and I'll ship either the tank (most likely) or the new shell (less likely). You will need to work out mounting arrangements for teh front but that should be easy weld in a short tab for a Dzus fastener.

[water cooled]

R, thanks.... let me try my hand at a prototype setup here as this all ties in to the water cooling mod. If the mod works, I may be trying to find a source for a thin, fiberglass tank with Dzus fasteners.....it seems like this setup would be very specific to drag racing only. where you going to make a shell only or a complete glass tank?

Kevin

[tz375]

I started to modify the tank to fit on my modified frame and then I fitted a YZF60R seat and R7 seat, so it fills no purpose here. I was thinking about making a skin/upper out of it. I have the tank and the C/F - just not a lot enough time so far.

Don't cut up another tank if you can use this one. It will never be used as a real tank on a 74 again.

[tz375]

All I can say is that a dummy tank will take a while. I hit it with the "ankle grinder" the other day and made some progress. Today it was a balmy 30 or so and I decided to start filling holes with glass to get a clean steel plug to take a mold from. Even with the heater going flat out it's still too cold for the resin to set. may take a few days at this rate just to go off

What's the plan for this season? last year you went from 80 hp to 120 or something like that. Do we expect to see another 40 HP this year and another 40 pounds just peeling off? Or are we going for consistency in 2011 and keeping thiungs basically as they are?

[water cooled]

R,

I do have a handful of small modifications for the 2011 race season. But, there's a gap between what the ET performance should be (based upon HP and weight) and what I have been able to do so far. That tells me, that the issue is rider performance. A few weeks ago, one of the top guys in S/E posted 5 or 6 slow-motion videos of bike launches. I was lucky enough to be one of them and after watching and comparing to the top H2 racers (Joe Bird, Gary Seeley, Dave and Matt Derrick and Jack Seaberger), it became obvious that I need to smooth out how I launch the bike.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_T0pEKlJ0E

[Herman T]

The only thing I see is your positioning when you are waiting for the light. Something tells me you will have that down pat by the time your first race comes around. I can't wait to hear your bike with those pipes on it and of course, see you get into the 9's for the first time. Maybe you could do a youtube video of the bike running in your driveway or garage like you did in the past. Hint hint. You can see the power being released to the track on that launch. Pretty cool.

[tz375]

Cool video Kevin.

The launch bog is easy to see and my geuess is that you will work out that little wrinkle quite soon. More clutch slip will do it but of course plates won't last as long, but that's a cheap improvement in Et and speed.

[water cooled]

I didnt hit WOT off the line either....it took too long to get the throttle all the way around and in doing that, I move my body way too much. You can see the bike veer to the left and then a long lean to get it back into the groove...never found the foot pegs either. After watching that clip a few times, its amazing I made it to the other end of the track. I think learning to launch correctly is the next major focus for 2011....

...however, the new clutch perch (switch) is now wired into the MSD and will help with a more consistent launch. When the clutch lever is pulled in, the switch holds the MSD as a pre-set RPM for launching. That way, I can hold the throttle WO. When the clutch lever is released, the switch will let the MSD go the rest of the way up. I need to practice slipping the clutch a little but it will be a "give-and-take" between slipping the rear wheel and slipping the clutch.

Right now, I'm figuring out if a slider clutch can be adapted. I read the posts on the first generation GS750 v. GT750 transmission swap, but need to investigate the differences between the GS1100 v. GT750 clutch end to see what the differences are. If they are close, MTC makes a slider clutch that would fit the GS1100 shaft end. This might get into a lot of stuff and become a big project but the benefits might be worth it.

http://www.mtceng.com/clutches/mtc-prod ... r-clutches

[D&D CHASSIS]

[quote="water cooled"]


This might get into a lot of stuff and become a big project but the benefits might be worth it.

Might be worth it? The benefits would be staggering! And devastating for a few of the guys in S/E........

[ja-moo]

You definately need a 1/4 turn throttle, if you already haven't installed one. You are actual pulling on the right bar, and the huge arm movement slows downs the throttle movement.

[water cooled]

You wouldnt know it but, I have a Vortex quick throttle installed. When I throttled up to 7000 to launch, I left my arm in a really bad position with the elbow down too low. After I let go of the clutch, I was really late throttling the rest of the way up and had to crank my arm down to do it. It was really bad... one of the many reasons why I hope the 2 step (hole-shot feature) on the MSD will make things easier.

[tz375]

There is no doubt that technique takes time and practice to develop and that is essential in any sort of bracket racing.

In a road race if I screw up the start, there's lots of braking cornering and accelerating opportunities to make up that time. In drag racing, not so much. So consistency is critical and that takes lots of practice.

[water cooled]

Packing up for the trip to Martin and leaving in the morning. Dropping the bike off with DF for a little final adjusting before the first of three races this season. New clutch stack with 9/8 Alto Red Eagle friction plates and stock metal plates. Added a two-step and will try it out during Test n Tune next Friday. Added the new water temp gage and will record base line temps with the current setup at each end of the track, then modify to drop the radiator and monitor the temps running through a bypass only.

Not sure if the pipes will get some work done on this go-round to lengthen the header section. We seemed to get several more hp with a slightly longer section. If not at Martin, then surely at Indy. Will also try some new fuel....VP U4.4 which will require some jetting changes.

Goal: 10.4 sec or better and 133+ terminal speed. Yep....Id be happy with that on this trip!

I'll post some pics from the event. More than twenty 2-strokes at a 4 day Harley event. Should be very interesting....

[Suzukidave]

Have a great/safe day Kevin