Archived Posts

[Admin]

I don't know where you might get a trim strip, but you can replace the little screws. You'll have to first get the old ones out, the take some small screws, and slip the heads into the strip from one end. You might have to file them a little to fit into the strip. It's a pain in the ass, but it can be done.


Lane

[Admin]

Ahh so your saying the strip is channeled?
I thought they might actually be part of it.

Thanks!

[Admin]

Well, I'm assuming it's like other Suzukis, which are channeled. I could be wrong!


Lane

[Admin]

Hey all

Just wondering if you can recommend a hardy (black) paint for use on the swingarm, stand etc?

Ive used what seemed to be a fairly tough paint but it chips like a drag queens nails...

Any thoughts?
(Cant get the swingarm powdercoated due to not wanting to remove bushes)

Cheers
Ash

[Admin]

There are some epoxy paints out there in spray cans. I think VHT has one, that Dennis Kirk carries. I really don't know for sure, I just use canned enamel for frames, and it does chip sometimes.


Lane

[Admin]

Preparation is key as well as product selection for chip resistance.

Your choice of products is critical for chip resistance because the system has to work together to provide the necessary durability. If a lacquer primer is used under a Polyurethane topcoat, you will not get the durability expected from the Polyurethane. The primer in this case is the weak link.
Lacquer is a weak product. It has no catalyst and can be moved with solvent. The Polyurethane is catalyzed and cannot be moved once it has cured. This difference in technology causes the bond between the products to be weak and provide very little resistance to chipping.

A degreasing solvent to remove all the grease and oil prior to sanding/blasting etc. is a must. If this step is not done, the abrading will drive the contaminate into the surface of the metal and create a weak area.

An Epoxy primer such as PPG's Delfleet Evolution F3950 would be best. It will provide the necessary corrosion protection and excellent adhesion. There are other products out there that would be good for this situation. The key is to use a two part epoxy primer.
For the topcoat, the best product is a two part Polyurethane such as PPG's FDG or FDGH. This will provide the needed chemical resistance as well as impact resistance and a great shine.

[Admin]

I used paint designed for repainting household appliances it was an enamel. i then baked all the parts in my oven (the ones that would fit) and the frame i put in the car and parked in the sun for the day. i haven't had any problems with the paint chipping at all. i had to save money somewhere.

[Admin]

I use Plasticote engine Enamel and stick the Parts in a Parked 66 Plymouth Satellite. It's Parked in the Sun and Get's Hot Enough. Plus it's got Enough Room for a Whole Motorcycle.

[Admin]

I know this is an old post but I wanted to share what I discovered in case someone else has this issue. I also tried to find some gt500 fork dust seals and failed. The 1976 gt750k and l models use a rubber gaiter that should work but I was not sure how the top part would attach to the fork. The dust seals for a 1976 gt750m are still available from the dealership and will work with a little modification. The groove on the top of the lower fork leg is too low for the new seal to snap over so I had to widen the top edge of the groove about 1/8â€

[Admin]

I did have the 750J/K accordian boots on my GT500 for a while. They fit fine, but you need the chrome pieces at the top of the leg that have a lip for the accordian to attach.




Lane

[Admin]

Thanks for the comment. I dont want to grind on my lowers to get other dust seals to fit. I have thought about Gaters like Lane suggests but he also suggested checking the newer bikes for covers that might, maybe, could, possibly fit. In time I will get out and do that. I'll pass along anything I find. Dofin

[Admin]

Dofin,

Many bikes with 35mm forks had those dust boots. The Honda CB500T springs readily to mind as I have one. I think before I modified the lower fork leg, I would cut out the retaining groove in the dust cover and stick it in place with some black silicone.

Jim

[Admin]

Also posted on the KTW board...

Ya'll...

I have been toying with the zinc plating idea since I have several project bikes in the mill that will need many parts plated. I know you can take a bucket of bolts down and have them plated for $30 or 40...but...I won't have everything together at once...and...I am apt to forget that one part I need to put something together. I know no one else has this problem... Right????

I've talked this chemical formula over with Lane and purchased them from an eBay seller for about $15 along with a LARGE surplus zinc anode for about the same price. I went and picked up some Muriatic Acid at Home Depot today for use as a "pickle" and decided to get started. Besides, my wife wasn't back with the wax I needed to get started on the rubber molding...

Thought I would post this as it seems really easy as long as you observe safety...goggles and gloves...

Here is the HIGH-TECH plating vat... Zinc anode bolted to one end with a long impact chisel across it to hang things from. M/C battery and a bulb to limit current to about 100ma per square inch of surface to be plated. I need to find a large wirewound rheostat (like I threw away a couple years back).



You also need to pickle the parts in the acid for a few minutes and then rinse WITHOUT touching them. I just attached a piece of thin copper wire to the parts and used that to handle them throughout the entire process...



First thing I tried was a small nut that stayed in the plating solution for about 25 minutes. After polishing up with a Scotchbrite pad it looked like this...



At this point I was pretty jazzed....so I looked around for more stuff to play with... How about rear wheel spacer and a passenger footpeg mount?

Here is the peg mount BEFORE...



Here is the spacer after the pickle and rinse...



The spacer partially plated and the peg mount going in the tank...



The spacer AFTER...



The peg mount AFTER...



This spring was REALLY NASTY... Corrosion, gunk, you-name-it...



I even found this old exhaust stud at the bottom of a parts bin with the rounded off nut still frozen on the stud...



It wound up looking better... (Yeah...I know it's unusable...)



Finally, here is a shot inside the tank where the "magic" is happening...



Just wanted to post this so if you've wanted to do some zinc plating but (like I did for years) thought it would be too complex or a pain...it doesn't seem like it is.

I also have a formula for the "Yellow Chromate" for ignition boxes and other parts. I need to get back in touch with my supplier and have her ship me some chromic acid... I'll update this thread later with the results...

Thanks for looking!!!!

Tom

[Admin]

Nice work, they come up great!

How easily does the coating get damaged?
Does it depend on how long you leave it in?

Ill have to give it a go anyway, got TONS of little things that need doing.

[Admin]

Thank you for Sharing Tom.I Vote for a Sticky Thread.Anybody Else?