Titan has awoken from 35 year sleep

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Mon Jul 13, 2009 1:06 pm

Fred on those Titans the regulator is a fixed modular type as in you cant adjust it or open it either.
Pat may have to do a recheck on his charging output to see whats the figure.
Being those T500 output systems are kind of marginal i do recommend at least replacing the tail lamp bulb to one of the multi LEDs to allow more output to be available to the H.L bulb.

rngdng · Post by **rngdng** » Tue Jul 14, 2009 7:09 pm

There is an explanation on Muzza's site about increasing the output of a T500/GT500 charging system. Basically, you rewire it so that both lighting coils are on all the time.

Lane

rbond · Post by **rbond** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 7:33 am

Phil C in England is in the process of reverse engineering a V/R for a GT500. From what I saw in a T500 diag. the V/R is virtually identical, so much that I think his new one will work on a T500 too. If I am not mistaken the V/R is NLA for both series of 500's, so his work will be doubly valuable!!! He told me that he will build one himself to test on his T500 before he gives me the schematic and parts list, so when I get a chance to build and test one, we will have two to validate his design. The Electrex unit I have has apparently gone south, I get upwards to 16 volts with NO sign of any controlling, in that as the rpm's rise, so is the voltage. As long as I run in town, I don't reach an engine speed that will blow the fuse, it still however is boiling out the water in the battery, so once a week I have to top it off with distilled water. I don't know how long the battery can take this before going bad.....

chainsaw · Post by **chainsaw** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 7:56 am

rbond wrote:Phil C in England is in the process of reverse engineering a V/R for a GT500. From what I saw in a T500 diag. the V/R is virtually identical, so much that I think his new one will work on a T500 too. If I am not mistaken the V/R is NLA for both series of 500's, so his work will be doubly valuable!!! He told me that he will build one himself to test on his T500 before he gives me the schematic and parts list, so when I get a chance to build and test one, we will have two to validate his design. The Electrex unit I have has apparently gone south, I get upwards to 16 volts with NO sign of any controlling, in that as the rpm's rise, so is the voltage. As long as I run in town, I don't reach an engine speed that will blow the fuse, it still however is boiling out the water in the battery, so once a week I have to top it off with distilled water. I don't know how long the battery can take this before going bad.....

OK, I am the last person on earth to be saying I know ANYTHING about electrical problems........BUT...... couldnt you put some type of capacitor on your system to eat up the extra current and not blow fuses?

Post by **Suzsmokeyallan** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:25 am

In the case of the Titans its not enough output, so placing a ceramic core resistor into the system dumping the charging excess to ground isnt the problem.
I noticed before i stripped down that sometimes the H.L on my 69 would have a way of flickering slightly at about 2000rpms, it could have been an issue with grounds or harness connections or the regulator itself.
The prior condition of the whole electrical system was so bad that im surprised it worked at all.
These things are 40 years old so anything is possible, therefore i recommend anyone with such a bike to stripe the harness down and check all internal insulation and the crimped connections for proper continuity.
These bladed connectors and bullet connectors need to be clean and tight for proper flow of voltage and amps, and in the Titans case you need every little bit you can get.
Also, cleaning the rectifiers connections, fuse holder, ignition switch and its connection and the handle bar switch gear as well since cant hurt either.

Post by **oldjapanesebikes** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:44 am

Looking at the wiring diagrams, I'm wondering whether something like a Podtronics unit used as a Lucas replacement on British bikes wouldn't work ? It appears to be a very similar set-up. 200 Watt units are around $55, and replace both the rectifier and regulator.

Has anyone looked at this as an option ?

Suzukidave · Post by **Suzukidave** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:48 pm

http://powerdynamo.biz/eng/systems/7261/7261main.htm

Post by **oldjapanesebikes** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:06 pm

That looks to be a nice solution Dave - and the price actually is less than what I would have expected. I've book marked the page for future reference for my own project !

Titan has awoken from 35 year sleep

charging

Re: charging