Thanks all for the tips. I think I'm going to go with JB Plastic Weld epoxy. Comes in either stick or liquid form and looks like it may do the trick. I'll be sure to report back when I'm done.
Thanks again!
S32-2 Clutch Release Cracking
Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
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charlie55
- On the street
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2016 5:50 pm
- Country: United States
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1968 S32-2
-
charlie55
- On the street
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Wed Feb 03, 2016 5:50 pm
- Country: United States
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1968 S32-2
Re: S32-2 Clutch Release Cracking
First off, the photos I originally posted are for a second clutch release that I picked up from ebay. It was in much sorrier shape than the one I already had, so I used it as a guinea pig. What I settled on was a combination of a CA-type glue (SureHold Plastic Surgery) that's claimed to bond nylon, and Loctite Plastic Bonder which is a two-part quick set epoxy.
After cleaning and degreasing the cracks, I used a hypodermic with to force the CA glue into the cracks under pressure. For the most part this was to get it to flow into any voids between the nylon and inner metal shaft, but it also created a shallow initial bond. After that cured, I forced the epoxy to the cracks, again using a hypo, but without a needle as the epoxy was way too thick to "suck up". Here's what the fix looks like:
The epoxy fill is actually cream-colored, but I did some smoothing with 2000-grit paper and that discolored it. I also added two O-rings to the neck for a little extra support. A few dabs of white lithium and it rotates nice and smooth in the outer housing.
I'm not 100% sure what the long-term durability of this fix will be, so I'll be keeping an eye open for a better unit.
After cleaning and degreasing the cracks, I used a hypodermic with to force the CA glue into the cracks under pressure. For the most part this was to get it to flow into any voids between the nylon and inner metal shaft, but it also created a shallow initial bond. After that cured, I forced the epoxy to the cracks, again using a hypo, but without a needle as the epoxy was way too thick to "suck up". Here's what the fix looks like:
The epoxy fill is actually cream-colored, but I did some smoothing with 2000-grit paper and that discolored it. I also added two O-rings to the neck for a little extra support. A few dabs of white lithium and it rotates nice and smooth in the outer housing.
I'm not 100% sure what the long-term durability of this fix will be, so I'll be keeping an eye open for a better unit.
