This Alternator rotor is kicking my tail

[jaybob]

I'm trying to get the alternator rotor off my GT550 to access the left crank seal. This rotor must be seized onto the end of the crank unless there is some sort of attachment I am not aware of.

I took out the bolt from the center of the rotor. I threaded a bolt into the outer threads of the rotor and gave it a few exploratory whacks with a slide hammer but it would not budge at all. I even heated it up a good bit but still nothing.

I would like to remove it without ruining it but am running out of ideas. Am I just not pulling it hard enough? Any ideas?

Thanks
Jason

[Frank]

What I've always done was insert a short piece of rod (ex. piece of bolt shank) into the hole so it hits the end of the crankshaft. Push on this with a bolt in the outer threads of the rotor (same ones you were using for the slide hammer.) Put some tension on it then give it some love with a small hammer and it should pop right off.

[jaybob]

Thanks Frank, I'll give 'er a go.

[jaybob]

Thanks Frank, I'll give 'er a go.

[Buffalo-guy]

I use an appropriate length of bolt that threads into the threads of the bolt you removed. you cut the head off, and cut a groove in the end with a hacksaw, and spin it into the end of the shaft until it is half- 3/4 " inside. then spin the big bolt in until it contacts the bolt shaft, and torque on it a fair bit, then tap it with a hammer. It should pop right off. This way you're pulling on the rotor, and pushing on the crankshaft, without actually touching the shaft and running the risk of damaging the end. I use an air impact gun, that makes short work of the procedure. Hope this helps. Cheers.
Fred

[gt-keith]

I've just removed the rotor off my GT380. The method I used was a 10mm x 1.25mm pitch bolt, with the first 60mm or 45mm turned down to 6.4mm depending on which rotor you have, to clear the 8mm thread in the crank.
Screw into the rotor reasonably tight the give it a firm whack and it should pop off.
Do NOT screw an 8mm stud into the crank them a 10mm fine bolt into the rotor as the two different threads will 'lock' against each other and you'll never get the rotor off.

gt-keith

[tz375]

Keith, That is an excellent way to remove the rotor and that tool sounds much like the one that Allan uses.

I use the two bolt method all the time and it works well because the two are different bolts and there is no way that they interfere with each other and no way to lock up.

Either technique works.

[jaybob]

Ok Guys.... thanks for the tips. I made an 8mm stud and then threaded the 10mm bolt in. After about a 1 second burst from the impact wrench it was off.

Nothing like the right tools for the job.

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Richard i know Dave has one of those special tools in his pic files when i made some for the Buffalo. I even stamped his initals into the head for him, maybe he can post up the pic of how it looks.

[Suzukidave]

Richard i know Dave has one of those special tools in his pic files when i made some for the Buffalo. I even stamped his initals into the head for him, maybe he can post up the pic of how it looks.

[oldjapanesebikes]

Nice !! Speciality tools - possibly another sideline business venture to add to gauge repair ?

[Ebayru]

I used the rod and bolt technique to remove the rotor from my GT550 today. I sat on the bike so I could lock the crankshaft using the brake with the trans in gear. I tightened the bolt down in the rotor and then gave it a light tap with a hammer.

Much to my amazement the rotor launched from the crankshaft and landed over 3 feet away. It was a defective rotor so no harm done but there sure could have been if I was in front of that rotor! Imagine if I was sitting cross legged on the ground in front of as I often do. OUCH!