I am deep into my 550 trying to find out why the right side isn't oiling well. I removed the banjo bolt and squirted oil in to the hole. It shot right through to the intake pipe so I know it isn't clogged. It passes oil freely.
Now I suspect the pump. I removed the left line as well and cranked the motor for a good 30 seconds. Not a dribble out of either line.
I have 2 other pumps to choose from. One has a yellow paint mark and one has a blue paint mark. The one I have on the bike has no paint mark.
What do these colors signify?? Which one should I use?????
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
Where is this paint mark?? if its on a particular bolt/fitting usually that signifies it has been specially torqued and marked visually so its status can be visually verified.
Most of the time yellow paint is used but white, blue, green and red has also been seen on such parts requiring such visual information.
Allan, the paint mark is on the casting body itself.............. I didn't notice till after I took this photo, but drive stems are definately different lengths.
The blue one is .410 from the end to the seal. The yellow one is .310 from the end to the seal.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
In that case where its on the body part itself it could signify the pump has been fitted to the engine it was on originally and torqued to spec or that it was tested and passed after assembly.
Why does one of those pumps appear to have a driven shaft thats slightly longer than the other.
For the sake of ease plus it looks way better externally, id try the one with the blue mark first. You could attach it to the line from the bikes oil tank, put some oil in the tank and spin it on a drill to check the output delivery on the output holes.
You could also check yours on the bike this way too for clarity, but if the blue one works on all ports i'd fit that one.
Pulled the existing pump and it had the long shaft. Replaced it with the one with the blue paint mark. The existing oil in the lines is green, but the new oil in the tank (bled to the pump) is red. It should be easy to see if the oil is flowing evenly.
I won't be messing with it for about a week now. I decided to hook the SRIS back up. I ordered new lines and clips yesterday. I won't get them till next Thursday or Friday.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
Actually guys, the oil pump shafts are the same length. No I'm not blind. trust me they are the same. How on earth can that be, you ask?
The shaft is also the piston and it rises and drops as it rotates, which is also why the the lever arm sometimes hangs up and seems sticky. If you pull the pump apart you will see that the top is basically a face cam so that as it turns, The whole center part rises and falls and that's what pumps the oil.
Try turning teh shaft and you will see what I mean.
I dont know if the arm has been removed before but the arm can be put on 180deg out . A test to make sure the arm is on correctly is when the arm is moved from the idle position to the full throttle position the shaft that is turned by the engine should go up into the pump body .
Thanks for that tip Dave, theres a set of illustrations about how these cylindrical style pumps work in some service literature referring to the shaft rising and falling covering and uncovering ports in the pumps body to direct flow etc.
Richard i have not pulled down a cylindrical pump yet since i never had to, all the ones ive repaired are the type found on the smaller bikes with two outputs.
Ive always got a supposed non working pump repaired since its a mechanical device and not anything that can fail electrically. Most of the time its the main cylinder that sticks in the bore due to contamination, something thats very easily solved.
Once i get around to checking into the few Buffalo ones i have ill be able to figure out just what makes these things give people problems.
Seeing the varied amounts of stuff ive found in the bottom of oil tanks, im not surprised the pumps dont jam up more often.
Following the idea of particles getting into the oil supply system and causeing problems i put a inline gas filer in the oil line to the pump on the yellow GTX-R bike and it hasnt cased any problems . Oil pump info http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/gt/manuals/gt750man/sr44.htm
There arent any repair parts or gaskets for these pumps so they really arnt fixable and the paper gasket under the top is really hard to save so i guess they are one of those replace parts .
Good idea on the pump filter Dave, now youve said that i know Honda use some really small but neatly shaped Keihin ones for the fuel lines of their older lawnmowers that would work perfectly in the tank to pump CCI line.
They are cylindrical in shape semi transparent plastic, so easily looked into if you think they might be getting clogged, plus reusable since its a fine nylon screen inside that can be back washed out with gasolene.
I'll have to check into pulling one out i have for a look at its new intended purpose.
The shaft is also the piston and it rises and drops as it rotates, which is also why the the lever arm sometimes hangs up and seems sticky. If you pull the pump apart you will see that the top is basically a face cam so that as it turns, The whole center part rises and falls and that's what pumps the oil.
I went to the yellow coded pump that appeared to be short I rotated the shaft using a small drill bit as the pin. Sure enough the shaft rises and falls and you can feel the piston action happening inside.
But guess what? I then roteted the shaft on the pump I just removed and the shaft stays down at all times. I does not rise and fall and you can't feel anything happening inside the pump .
Therefore the pump does not work. I am now suprised I didn't seize up the motor.
Thanks tz
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
Just for the fun of it, you could pull the three screws out of the top cover and have a look inside. It's possible that he arm is on upside down and is staying in the idle position.
It should be fairly obvious what is wrong. The pumps are very simple and all that can go wrong is the plungers getting sticky on dirt ingestion from debris in the oil tank.
They are pretty simple mechanical devices and as Dave mentioned, the gasket splits needs to be replaced so that takes a few minutes with thick brown paper.
