Huge selection here -- http://www.tiresunlimited.com/default.htm. The Dunlops mentioned in the previous post are the K81's. I have delt with these folks. Good prices and cheap fast shipping. If you want real cheap, look at the Kendas. Buy good if you can swing it. That rubber is the only thing that seperates you and the pavement
I know you might not want to go this route but your local suzuki dealer can get you original fuel tubing and you cut it to length.
Just pick a modern model from their present lineup that uses the diameter you need and get some ordered.
3/16" fuel line is 4.8mm ID and "should" work although you may have to work to get it on the carbs/petcock. Sudco has fuel line on their website including some sources from Japan that may work for you as well:
Well, the gt750 was to big for me so I could not drive it. One day I am hoping to get a nice gt250. If I can get my hand on a nice project I will go for it:) Now That my gt380 is finish I need something else to do:)
But there is a lack off 250 in norway. So I will be lucky to get one. There is only two for sale on the internet in norway right now. And the price is way to high. He will never get the asking price, thats for sure.
I think he ask for 5000 usd for a gt250 that look like crap. He will have to drag the bike whit him to the grave, thats for sure. No one will pay that.
I have the motion pro line on my bike. It's really flexible. I went with the clear. At first I was worried it might collapse on the vacuum line, but it works fine. Because it's so flexible its a little tough to get on the vacuum fitting so it helps to connect one side to the carb when it's off the bike.
doesn't run as well as it should. I am 2 over on the mains (102.5's) and also have the needles set at the richest position. The pilot jets are stock.
The bike pulls good and strong as the top end is all new. The issue I have is once the bike warms up. It takes throttle pretty well but takes forever to return to idle. If I am in gear, I can pull R's down by dragging the clutch. I have checked for air leaks and there are none. Another seperate issue is at idle. I can set it to idle at 12 - 1500. It idles well but if you leave it a while, it gradually falls off and dies. I can live with that by tweeking the throttle when I am stopped.
Anyone have any ideas on the slow throttle return? I am talking about 10 seconds or so to come down from around 4K. I should mention that the air screws are a stock 1 1/2 turns out. I tried going in half a turn and out half a turn but that had little effect.
Could this have anything to do with the float level? I see some drips once in a while from the overflow tubes.
I'm getting impatient to ride the bike, so I used what I had on hand - some of that clear blue line. It's not very stretchy, but I was able to get it over the fuel filter stubs (1/4 filters, 3/16 line) by warming with a heat gun.
Did you know you can melt clear blue fuel line by leaving the heat gun on too long? I do now
All back together, battery charged, tires inflated, ready to ride. I just need to go get some gas for it. I hope it feels like running. It's been hibernating since last October.
The idle hang sounds to me like your idle jetting is too lean. The air screw adjustment having no effect also makes me think that. Intake leaks will give the same symptoms, but you've ruled that out.
Old cracked intake boots can do that too, but you can catch that by spraying WD40 on them and seeing if the idle speed changes. The cracks can be really small and still let air leak through. You probably already checked that though.