Thanks for the advice, Joe.
I'll give it a try too.
Dale
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wiring diagram for the T500 Titan ?
long time lurker, first time poster so..
hello everybody!
big fan of the Honda CB family of bikes, especially the sohc cb750's
i came across a T500 Titan for cheap on my local craigslist, and have just fallen head over heels for the bike after bringing it home and doing a little riding..
im really excited about cleaning things up and doing a few mods, have already started fabricating a road racer style tank and seat for it, and have been trying to gather information on updating the brakes and suspension as well..
first thing on my list is to scrap all this crusty old wiring , and rewire the bike completely with all new materials , soldered connections, and hopefully using a simplified wiring scheme to eliminate as much of the factory spaghetti that is currently hitching a ride on an otherwise very neat and clean little bike.
so im desperately seeking a simplified wiring diagram to use in re-wiring this bike, ive looked through the forum here , tried to use the ' search ' function ... and came up short
some folks have asked me in the past - "why mess with something that isnt broken ?"
well.. its been my experience with older street bikes , that the wiring/charging/ignition systemss are the weak links in their dependability and road worthiness - and that goes for machines sporting even the best reputations for their dependability and service life..
the T500 i have is in pretty good shape, but the wiring is frightful.. i would love to scrap the 200 yards of factory wiring and eliminate as much wiring as possible..
many of the wires i can plainly see on the bike have severely dry rotted and cracking insulaton., and this is plainly observable without going through the wires or digging into things - im not sure this bike would have made it through another riding season before losing spark , or experiencing a failed charging system
any help , suggestions would be appreciated - and if someone can point me in the right direction for a simplified wiring schmatic, i would be very grateful for the information!
looking forward to meeting eveyrone here , seems like a nice place with some good folks..
thanks in advance, DFB
hello everybody!
big fan of the Honda CB family of bikes, especially the sohc cb750's
i came across a T500 Titan for cheap on my local craigslist, and have just fallen head over heels for the bike after bringing it home and doing a little riding..
im really excited about cleaning things up and doing a few mods, have already started fabricating a road racer style tank and seat for it, and have been trying to gather information on updating the brakes and suspension as well..
first thing on my list is to scrap all this crusty old wiring , and rewire the bike completely with all new materials , soldered connections, and hopefully using a simplified wiring scheme to eliminate as much of the factory spaghetti that is currently hitching a ride on an otherwise very neat and clean little bike.
so im desperately seeking a simplified wiring diagram to use in re-wiring this bike, ive looked through the forum here , tried to use the ' search ' function ... and came up short
some folks have asked me in the past - "why mess with something that isnt broken ?"
well.. its been my experience with older street bikes , that the wiring/charging/ignition systemss are the weak links in their dependability and road worthiness - and that goes for machines sporting even the best reputations for their dependability and service life..
the T500 i have is in pretty good shape, but the wiring is frightful.. i would love to scrap the 200 yards of factory wiring and eliminate as much wiring as possible..
many of the wires i can plainly see on the bike have severely dry rotted and cracking insulaton., and this is plainly observable without going through the wires or digging into things - im not sure this bike would have made it through another riding season before losing spark , or experiencing a failed charging system
any help , suggestions would be appreciated - and if someone can point me in the right direction for a simplified wiring schmatic, i would be very grateful for the information!
looking forward to meeting eveyrone here , seems like a nice place with some good folks..
thanks in advance, DFB
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- Supreme UFOB
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Admin
- Supreme UFOB
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Hi DFB, welcome aboard. 
Sounds like you have the same problem there as here in Oz. The heat + years can really take its toll on wiring. Got a bit in common I am the Vice President of the Honda 750/4 Club here in Qld. We are currently organising a 40th anniversary rally for its release in 1969. The gate prize is a Honda 4!!! so should get a good turnout. The link that Phil gave you is to the same diagram I have got & thats the only one I have ever been able to get off the net. Good luck with it, Cheers, Paul.
Sounds like you have the same problem there as here in Oz. The heat + years can really take its toll on wiring. Got a bit in common I am the Vice President of the Honda 750/4 Club here in Qld. We are currently organising a 40th anniversary rally for its release in 1969. The gate prize is a Honda 4!!! so should get a good turnout. The link that Phil gave you is to the same diagram I have got & thats the only one I have ever been able to get off the net. Good luck with it, Cheers, Paul.-
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aggghhh !!!! skeeerrryyyy stuff!!!!
thanks for the replys fellas !
this is so much appreciated
especially after all the searches i have done that turned up absolutely nadda, zilch , zip , zero..
i checked out all of the diagrams posted here..
dang ! a little intimidating!!!
before i get too far into this post - anybody here wired their bike in a simplified manner - without turnsignals horns etc etc.. ??
and only used ONE ignition switch with aa key ? ( without a second set of switches on the handle bars)
well , if not...
im going to try and figure out how to wire my bike up with nothing but the headlight/ tail light - one brake light switch - coils/ignition
and using only one universal, key ignition switch, eliminating a second set of switches on the handle bars.. though i will probably include a on/off switch for my headlight as well as a lo/hi beam switch
i think i should mention that i dont want to run any turn signals, no horn, no second set of switches on the handle bars..
just headlight/tail light , one brake light switch - and whatever i need to get power to my coils and have spark!
i will draw a diagram of my own , a simplified wiring diagram, and post it here for anybody that wants to to pipe in and let me know if it will/wont work - or what changes i may need to make to have it be a viable set up..
i promise that when i am done ( should i actually pull this off with everyones help here!) i will submit aa drawing of the wiring schematic to a freind of mine who is a talented graphics artist - who caan make a beautiful representation of the wiring diagram we come up with for a simplified set up on the T500.. i think it would be avery usefuul resourcefor someone just wanting to cut to the chaase and get a bike running , or back on the road - and eliminate 100 miles of wiring in the process!!
thaanks for the help here guys - no way i would try to tackle this on my own! DFB
PS.
looking at the diaagram advant63 posted: the key for the "left contol grip" has a wire running from the rectifier to a spot marked on the key as " SE = charge coil one "
then, a wire from the generator is marked on the key for the " left control grip" and is being designated " C2 charge coil 2"
nothing in my past experiences offers any clues as to what any of this means, and i have no inkling what these references relaate to..
can somebody explain these to me? i am hoping to eliminate the second set of switches and run everything from a single universal ignition switch.. i would really lke to know what is going on with those two wires so that i can start working on a solution to this wiring mess i am faaced with aat the moment..
will the bike run without these two wires? i mean , there is one coming from the rectifier , and then another from the generator - im guessing these wires are important in some shape form or fashion.. any suggestions for eliminating a second set of control switches and making things work from one ignition switch?
i apologise for this post turning into a book with chapters.. this isnt going to be as easy as i had hoped! DFB
this is so much appreciated
especially after all the searches i have done that turned up absolutely nadda, zilch , zip , zero..
i checked out all of the diagrams posted here..
dang ! a little intimidating!!!
before i get too far into this post - anybody here wired their bike in a simplified manner - without turnsignals horns etc etc.. ??
and only used ONE ignition switch with aa key ? ( without a second set of switches on the handle bars)
well , if not...
im going to try and figure out how to wire my bike up with nothing but the headlight/ tail light - one brake light switch - coils/ignition
and using only one universal, key ignition switch, eliminating a second set of switches on the handle bars.. though i will probably include a on/off switch for my headlight as well as a lo/hi beam switch
i think i should mention that i dont want to run any turn signals, no horn, no second set of switches on the handle bars..
just headlight/tail light , one brake light switch - and whatever i need to get power to my coils and have spark!
i will draw a diagram of my own , a simplified wiring diagram, and post it here for anybody that wants to to pipe in and let me know if it will/wont work - or what changes i may need to make to have it be a viable set up..
i promise that when i am done ( should i actually pull this off with everyones help here!) i will submit aa drawing of the wiring schematic to a freind of mine who is a talented graphics artist - who caan make a beautiful representation of the wiring diagram we come up with for a simplified set up on the T500.. i think it would be avery usefuul resourcefor someone just wanting to cut to the chaase and get a bike running , or back on the road - and eliminate 100 miles of wiring in the process!!
thaanks for the help here guys - no way i would try to tackle this on my own! DFB
PS.
looking at the diaagram advant63 posted: the key for the "left contol grip" has a wire running from the rectifier to a spot marked on the key as " SE = charge coil one "
then, a wire from the generator is marked on the key for the " left control grip" and is being designated " C2 charge coil 2"
nothing in my past experiences offers any clues as to what any of this means, and i have no inkling what these references relaate to..
can somebody explain these to me? i am hoping to eliminate the second set of switches and run everything from a single universal ignition switch.. i would really lke to know what is going on with those two wires so that i can start working on a solution to this wiring mess i am faaced with aat the moment..
will the bike run without these two wires? i mean , there is one coming from the rectifier , and then another from the generator - im guessing these wires are important in some shape form or fashion.. any suggestions for eliminating a second set of control switches and making things work from one ignition switch?
i apologise for this post turning into a book with chapters.. this isnt going to be as easy as i had hoped! DFB
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- Supreme UFOB
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DFB,
Designing a simple wiring diagram is easy. I have done it many times for street and race bikes, BUT I always have to ask myself what I'm trying to achieve and what compromises I'm prepared to accept. On a race bike that's simple.
On most street bikes of that era, the charging system was set u so that one set of charge coils was connected when the lights were OFF and other sets were switched in when the lights are ON. That's what that left switch block wiring is all about.
If you are 110% sure that you really don't want indicators or a horn, you could try unwrapping the wiring harness and strip out (carefully) the horn wiring etc.
Did those bikes have indicators stock? If so you could carefully strip out the indicator wiring too. Use a stock wiring diagram to double check the colors to make sure the right wires are coming out.
If you prefer to start with a wiring diagram, why not take a stock wiring diagram and white out the circuits you don't need, or trace over it and only draw in the ones you do need. Either way you will learn a lot from the process.
teazer
Designing a simple wiring diagram is easy. I have done it many times for street and race bikes, BUT I always have to ask myself what I'm trying to achieve and what compromises I'm prepared to accept. On a race bike that's simple.
On most street bikes of that era, the charging system was set u so that one set of charge coils was connected when the lights were OFF and other sets were switched in when the lights are ON. That's what that left switch block wiring is all about.
If you are 110% sure that you really don't want indicators or a horn, you could try unwrapping the wiring harness and strip out (carefully) the horn wiring etc.
Did those bikes have indicators stock? If so you could carefully strip out the indicator wiring too. Use a stock wiring diagram to double check the colors to make sure the right wires are coming out.
If you prefer to start with a wiring diagram, why not take a stock wiring diagram and white out the circuits you don't need, or trace over it and only draw in the ones you do need. Either way you will learn a lot from the process.
teazer
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T500 J Intake Pipes
Hi All
I'm looking for two intake pipes for my 1972 T500J. I don't know whether it is just age or some additive in the fuel but both the intake pipes have gone soft and broken
Any suggestions?
I'm concerned that if the fuel/gas/petrol is attacking the rubber, then I'll be wasting my money buying new or second hand ones. Have you done any mods or know of something that will work?
Thanks
Johan
I'm looking for two intake pipes for my 1972 T500J. I don't know whether it is just age or some additive in the fuel but both the intake pipes have gone soft and broken
Any suggestions?
I'm concerned that if the fuel/gas/petrol is attacking the rubber, then I'll be wasting my money buying new or second hand ones. Have you done any mods or know of something that will work?
Thanks
Johan
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well I think the paint will come off anyway when burning the carbon out, you need to get them red hot for a proper job, i have done a few sets before, not RG but t250 etc. You may be right about clear not being an option but I will further investigate. As a matter of interest i asked Suzuki if new pipes can be had, they can but at $750.00 each.
