Archived Posts

Post by **Admin** » Wed May 21, 2008 8:32 pm

I had a similar problem with my GT500 a while back after rebuilding the carbs. It turned ou that I had the float height wrong. I reset and it did the trick.

Post by **Admin** » Wed May 21, 2008 8:40 pm

I can help out with your rebuild if you have questions. I tore my GT500 down a few months ago. I have to say it was pretty simple compared to my CB750. Not too many parts in this engine. Be careful trying to sperate the cases. If they are stuck, use a hot air gun at the seems for 10-15 minutes and then use a plastic hammer as needed to get them apart. There is a locating stud in the front middle of the case and back middle. Take lots of pictures as you go....I learned this a while back and it is a great tip for helping to get things back together correctly. Bikegeezer helped me out a lot as well.

Post by **Admin** » Wed May 21, 2008 10:25 pm

Chris,

Polaris use 6 pulse tachs as a rule and they get those pulses from the AC system. They don't use a rectifier. If you can get six A/C pulses per revolution out of a 500 alternator it might work.

Do what I do. Buy a Suzuki tacho from say an RF900 or RGV250. Almost any two stroke twin or four stroke 4 will work as long as it comes in its own tin can.

I have them on three Honda racers so far and they work like a charm. And they are usually thirty to seventy bucks a pop.

email me if you want pics or wiring diagrams etc.

Teazer

Post by **Admin** » Thu May 22, 2008 12:58 am

Thanks CJF, I'm sure I'll have plenty of pics and questions that will follow.

Post by **Admin** » Thu May 22, 2008 6:08 pm

That's certainly been what the kickers been doing this week : )

I lucked out and picked up a complete GT550 engine for 50 bucks a few miles from my house off craigslist

Can anybody tell from those pictures if its a 76 or 77?

Does anybody know what the rough engine numbers were for the different GT550 years? I imagine there's a table somewhere....

Thanks!!!

Post by **Admin** » Fri May 23, 2008 4:19 am

Way to go Richard!! Looks nice.

Kevin

Post by **Admin** » Fri May 23, 2008 4:30 am

Arne,
I think this is what you are looking for.

http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/suzi/ ... /page2.gif

Kevin

Post by **Admin** » Fri May 23, 2008 11:32 am

EXCELLENT!!!!

It's from a 1974 model - good deal!

Thanks, that was very helpful and exactly what I was looking for!!!

Arne

Post by **Admin** » Fri May 23, 2008 1:35 pm

Ive sorted it chaps. It was a bad earth after I had had the frame powder coated. Runs as sweet as a nut now.
Thanks 4 your help

Post by **Admin** » Fri May 23, 2008 4:55 pm

Good to hear you figured it out!

Post by **Admin** » Fri May 23, 2008 6:02 pm

I love a happy ending!

Debby

Post by **Admin** » Fri May 23, 2008 8:31 pm

Now we need pictures of your bike unless I missed them.

Post by **Admin** » Fri May 23, 2008 11:29 pm

I've finally managed to get the bike road worthy, special thanks to Coyote and Lane.
With fresh rubber, brakes and all the electrics working, it is now time to go for a ride (but carefully as I have yet to get it registered and inspected by the Highway Patrol). I rode about 13 miles today, gradually getting further from home as I began to gain trust in it not to break down.
It was a fun ride, naturally a few things needed tightening, and adjusting. One of the Made in Taiwan indicators was pointing at the ground when the ride was over.
My questions are with the powerband. It pulls ok from idle but after that it is flat until 3,500rpm when it takes off. The revs build pretty slowly under 3,500 unless you fan the clutch. The bike has been ported and has expansions, I wonder if that has taken away some of the bottom end? It also seems to be geared pretty high, I'll count how many teeth the sprockets have tomorrow. I am not used to the bike yet but it doesn't seem real consistant in the power delivery. Once when accelerating it seemed like it could yank my arms out of their sockets but another time I thought I did the same thing and it didn't feel as strong. Normal or not?
Good times, I'm sure I'll ride it some more this weekend!

Post by **Admin** » Sat May 24, 2008 3:53 am

well this what I've done this morning....
1st,did the yellow/green/red wire test all above 1 ohms(1.2-1.5 ohms)
so they are ok.
2nd the lights do not go brighter or dimmer as the rev's get higher or lower.

3,as for the rectifier/regulater they are ok and new..these are the modern version especially designe for the two stroke.I contacted the makers who I bought them off awhile ago by phone anyway to cut the strory short they are ok and been test by my friend. every thing is in working order
except the charging.
did the continuity test ok.
all that leave is the rotor..
could it be the rotor lost it magnettic field?

Q2. Get a headlamp and connect it across the battery and start the bike. As you rev it up, does the light get brighter and does it dim as the revs drop. Do not turn the lights on at the switch yet.
I'll do that test as soon as my new battery gets fully charged.

this afternoon checked.....
did the light bulb test no different.
all push connections removed where possible and wires soldered together.
no joints. did all the continuity test all is ok.
battery connection tested and ok

bike fired up and running after 2 kicks.all lights work but does not get brighter etc.
so its all down in the alternater area.
I've got 2 spare staters
may fit one of these tomorrow if I've got time.

Post by **Admin** » Sat May 24, 2008 6:33 am

The porting and chambers will undoubtly cause some of the low end to go away, the more radical it is, the worse the problem, but, if the pilot system in the carbs is stopped up, it will also cause a low end problem.

If you have not cleaned the carbs, that is probably in order, if you have, you might do it again just to be sure. It is reallly easy to not get them quite clean enough, also, be sure there is not any crap getting from the tank into the carbs and stopping it up all over again.

Wayne

Archived Posts

GT750 ex rat bike first ride/questions