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[Admin]

I had to modify both my 750 & 550. Seems a though some stems were machined back far enough and some weren't. It's easy to check. Just assemble the new bearings and stem into the neck. Tighten the stem nut.
If all is smooth, no mods are required. If the lower tree / stem still wobbles around and you have fore and aft play in the assembly, then you will need to move the shoulder back.
This does NOT have to be precision. It is clearance only. Mask up the bearing race to protect it and use a file or Dremel to remove material from the problem area. If you get it a little smaller here, it doesn't matter. It's just so the bearing can seat in it's race and not against the shoulder on the stem.

[Admin]

Hello everyone,

It's been a while since I've posted. Too many things were taking priority over getting my GT500 back on the road.
Last time I attempted to get it running, I discovered that the crank needed to be rebuilt as there was tranny oil pouring out the left pot. I put seafoam in the tank and let it sit for about 9 months
Now that I've got some more time on my hands, I'd like to (hopefully) split the cases and get the old beast back on the road.
Some questions:
1. After top end, clutch housing, clutch and speedo cables, carbs, chain, rotor, stator and electrical wires are disconnected and removed, what's next?
2. What should I look for when I split the cases i.e. anything that's gonna pop out unexpectedly and go missing in the garage forever etc.?
3. I've got all the seals and o-rings for the crank(as well as a spare crank) and I'm in california. Is Scott Clough still around?
4. Anything else to look out for?

Any input appreciated. Thanks!

[Admin]

Lower bearing is a press fit on the stem. Upper is not.
1) disassemble the steering head.
2) Knock out the old flat races with a rod and a hammer.
3) Remove the old lower race from the stem. Sometimes these can be pretty tight. Soak some heat into it with a propane torch to aid in removal.
4) CLEAN EVERYTHING. Put the new races in the freezer. Don't mix up the upper and lower races. They look the same but they ARE different.
5) Install the lower bearing on the stem. If you are lucky, you can press it most of the way on with your thumbs. If the bearing is super tight, put the stem in the freezer for a couple of hours. Warm the bearing in the oven at around 200. Don't get it too hot or it will go to smoking and piss off the missus. Get a hammer and soft drift (brass or aluminum) and have it handy. Get stem from freezer, then the bearing from the oven and try again. Tap it all the way home.
6) Now get a HOT rag and wrap it around the neck to aid in race installation. If you don't care about the paint, use a torch. Get a race from the freezer and work it into place. A soft drift is acceptable. You can also use a perfectly sized heavy washer and some all thread to 'suck' the race into place. The races MUST go all the way to the original shoulders in the neck.
7) Now mock up the assembly and tighten down the nut (One of my spanners is the right tool!) With nut tight, check for any loosness or play. If there is play, then do the mod on the neck. When all is well, take it apart one last time and grease pack the bearings. It's a nasty job but it must be done. I use Gulf general purpose grease. Wheel bearing grease is not recommended - especially if it's the type with fibers.

[Admin]

That looks like something I can do.

And no missus to piss off if it smokes.

I guess I need to order them, eh?

[Admin]

Of course.... otherwise you couldn't sleep next night and others to come

[Admin]

Bellissima moto, DO NOT repaint it, simply rename it "Mephistophele", that colour is "Inferno Red".

[Admin]

Brad,

I get you the part number for the kit.

Thanks for the instructions and photo! BTW How's the 550 doing?

The steering stem on mine will more than likely have to be cut down.
I finally figured that much out. But I didn't think about the rest of it.

Brad you will have to do the same thing on your most likely.

Thanks again for the info Chris!

I appreciate it!!!!

Chris,

[Admin]

I just recieved the ultimate compliment on the 550 'RedZone'. The wife pulled in behind the bike in the driveway - coming home from work. As she walked by the bike, she stopped and took a long look and said "you did a good job on that one. It's a nice looking bike". You could have knocked me over with a feather. She never pays any attention to the motorcycles.
Still, I am sure I am not forgiven for all the time I spent wrenching when I should have been doing chores.

[Admin]

I'd just read the clymer manual (or whatever service manual you've got ahold of) a couple times and start doing it.

Just be careful not to break off studs in the cases, I've got that on one set of my GT750 cases and am still looking for a replacement set.....

Good luck!

Arne

[Admin]

Ok Arne, I'll just start at it. I've got a Clymer's for Suzi 2-stroke twins; I think there's a general tear down procedure in there. I'll try to be careful w/ the studs. I just tried charging the battery and it's toast. 3rd one in 4 years. I think I've got a short in my electrical system somehow--YAY!

Cheers,

-Z

[Admin]

Scanned Suzuki factory service manual here that includes the GT500 supplement:

http://www.3cyl.com/~diamondj/

The manual is:

SuzukiT500.pdf

It's a 40 meg file so if you are still on dial-up, go to your public library to download it to a CD-RW disc....

Jim

[Admin]

Bellissima moto, DO NOT repaint it, simply rename it "Mephistophele", that colour is "Inferno Red".

Rocky - NICE! I like that...... You could call it "Dante" as well....

She's a beauty Chris!!!!

Jim

[Admin]

I have a new chain and rear sprocket, but haven't been able to find a front. Where do you guys buy yours?

GT380

[Admin]

Thanks Jim, looks like it's just what I need.

[Admin]

The dealer is always a good source. Don't tell them what it is. Just go there armed with a part number.
If you want a 14 tooth, part # is 27511-33000. If you prefer a 15 tooth, the part # is 27511-33600. Both are available.
You can get them from your dealer for around $25 or you can order them from www.ridenowonline.com for $20.40 plus shipping.