Archived Posts
Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
T500R Decals
I need a source for information on the decals and the location of these decals for the above bike. Any suggestions?
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
GT-750 Rebuild Information
Ya'll,
I want to be sure that my next GT-750 is done right. I want to rebuild the motor, seals, bearings, rings, gaskets, etc replaced. Transmission inspected and refreshed as necessary. Stator inspected and replaced as necessary - i.e. make it a sound dependable motor.
Where can I locate the parts I would need? Or would it be just a wise to have someone with a lot of experience rebuilding GT motors to just have it done? If so, in the mid-west who would you recommend? Price?
I'm a fair wrench. I have rebuilt old BMW's and Moto Guzzi's with a bit of help from a friend of mine. If I have a manual - ALSO WHERE WOULD THE BEST PLACE BE TO GET A GOOD COMPREHENSIVE MANUAL?
I want to be sure that my next GT-750 is done right. I want to rebuild the motor, seals, bearings, rings, gaskets, etc replaced. Transmission inspected and refreshed as necessary. Stator inspected and replaced as necessary - i.e. make it a sound dependable motor.
Where can I locate the parts I would need? Or would it be just a wise to have someone with a lot of experience rebuilding GT motors to just have it done? If so, in the mid-west who would you recommend? Price?
I'm a fair wrench. I have rebuilt old BMW's and Moto Guzzi's with a bit of help from a friend of mine. If I have a manual - ALSO WHERE WOULD THE BEST PLACE BE TO GET A GOOD COMPREHENSIVE MANUAL?
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Manuls come up on Ebay from time to time. I have a Suzuki Service Manual and a Clymer Manual. I like the Clymer best because it has better exploded photos, but I refer to the service manual just to make sure the instructions match.
I am rebuilding a GT750 motor as we speak. Hang on to your wallet, cause it ain't cheap. Most parts are readily available except for one of the crank bearings, you may have trouble finding that one. All four main bearings are the same except one of them has a locating groove cut in its outside circumference, that is the one that is NLA. I had to get a regular bearing and Bill Bune cut the groove in it, but I understand he is no longer going to provide that service, so finding that bearing will likely be a PITA
I had the crank completely rebuilt by Bill Bune in Minnesota. He installed new big end bearings, main bearings, seals, checked the rods and was able to use all of them, checked the crank pins for wear and they were also good, and he then reassembled and trued the crank. About 500 bucks later, I have a great looking crank.
I had the cylinder bead blasted, bored, decked on both sides, honed and chamfered by Eric2Cycle in Pennsylvania. He also had to heli coil one stripped thread. Pistons, rings, small end bearings and labor approx another 500 bucks.
Tranny on a Buffalo is pretty much bullet proof, mine looked like brand new with no visible wear on the dogs, the shift forks, or the gears.
About another 100 buck for gaskets and seals.
A good source of Parts is Paul Miller at 860-828-1220, and of course Ebay.
Good Luck
Wayne
I am rebuilding a GT750 motor as we speak. Hang on to your wallet, cause it ain't cheap. Most parts are readily available except for one of the crank bearings, you may have trouble finding that one. All four main bearings are the same except one of them has a locating groove cut in its outside circumference, that is the one that is NLA. I had to get a regular bearing and Bill Bune cut the groove in it, but I understand he is no longer going to provide that service, so finding that bearing will likely be a PITA
I had the crank completely rebuilt by Bill Bune in Minnesota. He installed new big end bearings, main bearings, seals, checked the rods and was able to use all of them, checked the crank pins for wear and they were also good, and he then reassembled and trued the crank. About 500 bucks later, I have a great looking crank.
I had the cylinder bead blasted, bored, decked on both sides, honed and chamfered by Eric2Cycle in Pennsylvania. He also had to heli coil one stripped thread. Pistons, rings, small end bearings and labor approx another 500 bucks.
Tranny on a Buffalo is pretty much bullet proof, mine looked like brand new with no visible wear on the dogs, the shift forks, or the gears.
About another 100 buck for gaskets and seals.
A good source of Parts is Paul Miller at 860-828-1220, and of course Ebay.
Good Luck
Wayne
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
I'm not so sure about some aftermarket manuals, the Clymer one i have is about as helpful as tits on a boar. Try to get hold of a copy of the OEM suzuki manual, its one of the best for the engine specs and the dissassembly/rebuild procedure.
You will need a complete gasket set for starters along with all oil seals and crank seals as a given, what else is to be replaced, pistons, con rods, bearings,rebore and general machine work depends on the condition of the particular engine.
The one main crank bearing with the groove can be had from Ken at KnK cycles. They are no longer available OEM, however Ken has them done in batch lots, but they are not cheap, about $150.00 each, thankfully you only need one.
Source out your parts list after stripping down the engine and you will see the cost of a rebuild can easily reach $1,000.00 if you go full tilt.
Prepare to begin saving the funds in advance and start on a time frame to do the rebuild properly, you wont regret you took the time and effort.
You will need a complete gasket set for starters along with all oil seals and crank seals as a given, what else is to be replaced, pistons, con rods, bearings,rebore and general machine work depends on the condition of the particular engine.
The one main crank bearing with the groove can be had from Ken at KnK cycles. They are no longer available OEM, however Ken has them done in batch lots, but they are not cheap, about $150.00 each, thankfully you only need one.
Source out your parts list after stripping down the engine and you will see the cost of a rebuild can easily reach $1,000.00 if you go full tilt.
Prepare to begin saving the funds in advance and start on a time frame to do the rebuild properly, you wont regret you took the time and effort.
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Side-covers
Are there differences between the side covers (not oil) for the T500 and the GT500 or could they be interchanged? Thanks
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Mike,
The '68 side cover is metal and a different shape. Otherwise, they are the same from '69 through to the GT500.
Jughead was offering fiberglass reproductions of the plastic side covers not too long ago. You may want to PM him and ask if he has any left. They are much sturdier than the original plastic side covers.
Jim
The '68 side cover is metal and a different shape. Otherwise, they are the same from '69 through to the GT500.
Jughead was offering fiberglass reproductions of the plastic side covers not too long ago. You may want to PM him and ask if he has any left. They are much sturdier than the original plastic side covers.
Jim
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
GT750 Headlight
Hi, just got a 72 GT750, and looking at the headlight there is about a 5-10mm gap at the top between the actual headlight and the chrome ring on the bucket. The chrome around the headlight doesnt appear to be damaged, and the bucket looks ok too. The gap around the rest of the light looks good, only a few mm gap. Just doenst look right. Can someone put up a photo of what it should look like?
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Here's a link to the photo... hope it works
http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a294/ ... dlight.jpg
http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a294/ ... dlight.jpg
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
The 72 and 73 bulbs were round. Only the headlight bucket and the outer trim ring were flat at the bottom. It appears the your bucket and outer trim ring have somehow gotten egg shaped. That being very probable due to the downturn direction of the siganals. You can probably carefully tap things back round carefully.
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- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
GT380 ENGINE CLEAN
HI just got the frame back for my gt380(fresh paint) but my question is how do i clean the motor,i dont fancy taking it to bits can i get some sort of acid to clean the alloy? ANY IDEAS?.