Archived Posts

[Admin]

I'm about to take delivery of my newly aquired T500R. The current owner has apparently been running it on: Motul 510 two stroke and Motul transoil. Have you guys heard of this stuff, is it ok to continue with or would I be better changing it over to something new - and can you "blend" two stroke oil when changing over? i.e. just fill the tank with the new stuff? Many thanks from a new Suzuki owner (well it's still a few days away yet).

[Admin]

I hear the Motul is good. I like their chain lube. All modern two-stroke oils, whether dino or synthetic, will mix. If I were changing the whole thing out, I'd drain the oil tank of the old stuff, then fill it with the new.


Lane

[Admin]

Hi Lane,
Thanks for your replies to my questions - I appreciate your assistance. I've recognised a couple of names from the Kawasaki forum already. The previous owner apparently used Motul oil in his race bikes to good effect and reckons it's done well in the T500 to date. However, I'm thinking it might be simpler to just run the same oils in both the H1A and the T500. I use Putoline (? heard of it) - two stroke and light gear oil in the Mach III and it hasn't complained yet. On another post, you suggested I use B8HS plugs for the Suzuki - any particular gap best suited for the old girl?
Thanks, Mike

[Admin]

I don't have my manual with me, but I believe the recommended gap is .024-.028 inches. Someone correct me if that's wrong. They are usually about right when they come out of the package.


Lane

[Admin]

I can't remember what kind of oil (coventional v. synthetic, weights, etc) that I put into my transmission case when I rebuilt my engine. Is it neccessary to remove all the oil and put in fresh stuff or can I risk mixing?

[Admin]

Since you can't remember, I'd suggest just changing it. Use a GL5-rated gear lube. 75-80wt is good, and all auto parts stores carry it. I don't think the brand is very important.


Lane

[Admin]

is there an easy way to drain the oil or do I have to take the cover off?

[Admin]

There's a drain plug on the bottom. You still don't have a manual, do you?




Lane

[Admin]

I have a couple manuals, but neither one is very good on maintenance stuff. They mostly cover engine rebuilding.

Thanks for the tip.

[Admin]

They should show you how to drain the oil. It will be a large bolt under the engine. There are usually two large bolts that look like oil drains, but one of them is normally for the tranny "nuetral detent". If you remove that one, a spring and plunder will fall out. It's no big deal as long as you get them back in correctly.


Lane

[Admin]

Guys,

From the September 1973 issue of Cycle magazine, I've scanned an article about Oil, written by the late, great Gordon Jennings.

From the same issue, I've scanned a book review, written by Cook Nielson, about Gordon Jennings' "Two-Stroke Tuner's Handbook".

If anyone is interested in copies of either or both of these scans, just let me know your e-mail address.

Dale

[Admin]

Love it -- thanks!

lambypie@iglou.com

[Admin]

I'd like to take a look too....


tlhughes@comcast.net

Thanks!

[Admin]

That whole oil article wasn't accurate when Gordon did it back then, and certainly isn't relevant with today's oils/technology. It is really good fiction, though.

Both Gordon and Bob Braverman were fun to watch back then, as they were mostly wrong, and two of the best comedians in the bike editor scene.

Really, a racer, or any two stroke, running 4:1 fuel to oil ratio, and the hottest spark plug known to man...NOT! Jennings was, and still is wrong, very wrong.

[Admin]

Yes, Things have changed!! I would like to get an opinion or two on what some of youse would use this day and age as mix ratio and oil type in a 78 IT 400 and a 79 Frontera?? The IT manual calls for 20:1 and the Bul book calls for 25:1. Use of these bikes if for put-put rather than all out.

Also, on a GT550, what about straight synthetic (10-30) vs. CCI, since the cost is about the same??? Thanks, Ed