Frame Coating
Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
-
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:08 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1970 T350 Restored; 1972 GT380 Build
- Location: Yorba Linda, CA
Frame Coating
Hello All. It's been a while since I've been here as I finished my T350 a couple of years ago. Starting a frame up restoration on a 72 GT380. Will have lots of questions and appreciate any and all help. Any recommendations regarding painting the frame/swing arm/center stand versus powder coating? Also, were they painted from the factory back in 72? Thanks.
- Alan H
- Moto GP
- Posts: 3250
- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:50 am
- Country: England
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 4 x GT550s - J, M, A, B.
- Location: The Republic of South Yorkshire
Re: Frame Coating
Powder coat every time. The blasting gets rid of all the rust if done properly.
And yes they were painted at the factory.
And yes they were painted at the factory.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
-
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:08 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1970 T350 Restored; 1972 GT380 Build
- Location: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: Frame Coating
Thanks Alan!
-
- Expert racer
- Posts: 1155
- Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:04 pm
- Country: England, UK
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: FZ50, GP100, RG125 Gamma, GT380, Bandit 1200S
Re: Frame Coating
I painted mine using Hammerite. Bad idea. It chips far too easily and I've had to touch it up in a few places. I wish I had powder coated it instead.
-
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:08 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1970 T350 Restored; 1972 GT380 Build
- Location: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: Frame Coating
Yes I plan to go the Powder Coat route for the frame, swingarm, and center stand. I had to JB Weld one of the fork stops on the front of the frame. Will that stand up to powder coating? Also, would like to retain the original ID plate. Can it be protected during prep and coating without removal? Thanks.
-
- Yeah Man, the Interstate
- Posts: 633
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:09 am
- Country: england
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: several gt250 ramairs
Re: Frame Coating
hi grumpy, when i've had powder coating done i usually cut a piece of duct/gaffer tape to stick over the frame i,d. plate and make sure i tell them not to bugger it up, under pain of death. there again, you could always take it off [aren't they riveted on?] and refix it after powdercoating
cheers, dd.

cheers, dd.
GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.
- Alan H
- Moto GP
- Posts: 3250
- Joined: Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:50 am
- Country: England
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 4 x GT550s - J, M, A, B.
- Location: The Republic of South Yorkshire
Re: Frame Coating
My local powder coater uses aluminium foil (or aluminum - whatever that is in the US) to bung up all the threaded holes before powder coating.
I always run a tap through these (thread not water, of course) before putting a bolt where it should be.
Remember that the powder coating process ends up in an oven at about 180 degrees (ish) C (or quite a bit more in fartingheit), so duct tape may end up as a ball of snot which will gum up the orifice it's supposed to protect.
I understand there's little to recommend a snotty, bunged up orifice.
Restoring bikes is difficult enough without your orifice(s) being compromised.
I always run a tap through these (thread not water, of course) before putting a bolt where it should be.
Remember that the powder coating process ends up in an oven at about 180 degrees (ish) C (or quite a bit more in fartingheit), so duct tape may end up as a ball of snot which will gum up the orifice it's supposed to protect.
I understand there's little to recommend a snotty, bunged up orifice.

Restoring bikes is difficult enough without your orifice(s) being compromised.

Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
-
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:08 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1970 T350 Restored; 1972 GT380 Build
- Location: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: Frame Coating
lol...thank you dd and alan...yes sure do not need any compromised orifices!!!!!!!!
-
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 349
- Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2013 1:59 pm
- Country: United Kingdom
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: A100 GT250 & 4t Yams!
- Location: Brussel County, England
Re: Frame Coating
Sorry, are you suggesting you glued a fork/lock stop?grumpy56 wrote:Yes I plan to go the Powder Coat route for the frame, swingarm, and center stand. I had to JB Weld one of the fork stops on the front of the frame. Will that stand up to powder coating? Also, would like to retain the original ID plate. Can it be protected during prep and coating without removal? Thanks.

-
- Yeah Man, the Interstate
- Posts: 633
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:09 am
- Country: england
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: several gt250 ramairs
Re: Frame Coating
alan, when i've had stuff back from my powdercoater, something like a bottom yoke, the threads on the stem are always duct taped over. it don't go snotty, it goes the opposite, it goes hard. it takes longer to get that off than to fit the yoke. if they don't use duct tape they use masking tape, and that goes hard as well. suppose it depends what they've got to hand?
cheers, dd.

cheers, dd.
GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.
-
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:08 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1970 T350 Restored; 1972 GT380 Build
- Location: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: Frame Coating
Yes, used JB Weld for a fork stop. Wish I could post pics, but it says my files are too large.
-
- Yeah Man, the Interstate
- Posts: 633
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017 7:09 am
- Country: england
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: several gt250 ramairs
Re: Frame Coating
hi grumpy, download some free software for photo's. i use irfanview, which is dead simple. open your photo in irfanview, click on image, scroll down to resize/resample and change the size of your photo. i always type in 999 and save it. always works for me, but i use postimage to post my photo's, very easy to use and works every time
cheers, dd.

cheers, dd.
GTS250 road registered. TS250 engine, Ramair frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.
GT250 big bang road registered. Both pistons fire the same time. USD forks.
GT285 road registered. Overbored - 58mm and TS125 +2 pistons fitted.
GT10 road registered. '65 T10 engine, GT250 frame.
-
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:08 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1970 T350 Restored; 1972 GT380 Build
- Location: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: Frame Coating
Thanks DD will try it.
-
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 11:08 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 1970 T350 Restored; 1972 GT380 Build
- Location: Yorba Linda, CA
Re: Frame Coating
Add Photo Test
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- To the on ramp
- Posts: 349
- Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2013 1:59 pm
- Country: United Kingdom
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: A100 GT250 & 4t Yams!
- Location: Brussel County, England
Re: Frame Coating
Mate, you can't glue that it needs welding - won't last the first knock.