The o-ring barely sticks out of the groove. That plus the typical warped flange is not a good thing.
So this morning I was wondering if:
1) has anyone put a flat washer under the o-ring? Maybe Viton or metal?
2) has anyone used a sealant on the flange surface? Maybe a Permatex that’s fuel resistant?
T350/T250 carb flange questions
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- jabcb
- Moto GP
- Posts: 4311
- Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2010 4:32 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: 69 T350 thru 75 GT750
- Location: southwestern Pennsylvania
T350/T250 carb flange questions
BAS (Bike Acquisition Syndrome) - too many bikes but have room for more
Suzuki:
GT750 2x75
GT550 72 & 75
GT380 72
T500 69 project & 73 project
T350 69 & 71
Honda 85 CB650SC & 86 CB700SC
09 Triumph Bonneville SE
Suzuki:
GT750 2x75
GT550 72 & 75
GT380 72
T500 69 project & 73 project
T350 69 & 71
Honda 85 CB650SC & 86 CB700SC
09 Triumph Bonneville SE
- markush
- To the on ramp
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- Country: Germany
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: GT250/380
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Re: T350/T250 carb flange questions
Hi!
I align the flange sealing surface, leave the O-ring away and use a self-made 0.5mm paper gasket.
(Like the one between isolator and cylinder.)
I align the flange sealing surface, leave the O-ring away and use a self-made 0.5mm paper gasket.
(Like the one between isolator and cylinder.)
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Re: T350/T250 carb flange questions
I repair the warped flange if possible and use a new rubber.jabcb wrote:The o-ring barely sticks out of the groove. That plus the typical warped flange is not a good thing.
So this morning I was wondering if:
1) has anyone put a flat washer under the o-ring? Maybe Viton or metal?
2) has anyone used a sealant on the flange surface? Maybe a Permatex that’s fuel resistant?
To repair the flange I use a flat diamond sharpening stone and rub the concave surface over it repeatedly, until it is level again. Then clean the flange and put in new rubber o-ring and you are good to go. I suppose for extra measure you could use some Three Bond smeared onto the new ring, but it shouldn't be necessary usually.
- markush
- To the on ramp
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Re: T350/T250 carb flange questions
I should have explained:
New O-rings should be reliably fuel-resistant.
If not, they can swell so that the thin wall of the O-ring groove will burst.
How it happened to me and can be seen here: Image 32
Since the O-ring is then not properly held anyway, I omitted it and used the said paper gasket instead.
New O-rings should be reliably fuel-resistant.
If not, they can swell so that the thin wall of the O-ring groove will burst.
How it happened to me and can be seen here: Image 32
Since the O-ring is then not properly held anyway, I omitted it and used the said paper gasket instead.
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Re: T350/T250 carb flange questions
Soak oring in atp-205 or blue devil for a bit of time. I think Oring is obsolete I never try to cross it
O RING (D:3.5,ID:31.7)
I find once the T350 carbs have been mounted onto bike and temp cycled for a while they fit better. If they have been off the bike setting in a box for a time they take a while to reform. Tighten flange nut lightly then go back after a while and recheck. I don't see any leaks
O RING (D:3.5,ID:31.7)
I find once the T350 carbs have been mounted onto bike and temp cycled for a while they fit better. If they have been off the bike setting in a box for a time they take a while to reform. Tighten flange nut lightly then go back after a while and recheck. I don't see any leaks
Current registered, inspected, and running well 2 stroke motorcycles
74 GT250 (T350 upgrade),
76 GT250 (T350 upgrade),
71 T350,
70 T350,
74 GT380,
75 T500,
73 GT550,
75 GT750,
72 Yamaha DS7 (R5 upgrade),
77 Yamaha RD400 (Daytona Cyls),
73 Kawasaki H1 500
74 GT250 (T350 upgrade),
76 GT250 (T350 upgrade),
71 T350,
70 T350,
74 GT380,
75 T500,
73 GT550,
75 GT750,
72 Yamaha DS7 (R5 upgrade),
77 Yamaha RD400 (Daytona Cyls),
73 Kawasaki H1 500