float adjustment?

[Coyote]

I didn't watch the video, but I never heard such nonsense. How do they know what aftermarket needle I have? How do they know how thick my washer is under the seat?. That difference they're talking about is just barely more that what Suzuki gives you for a tolerance (+- 1mm). The thing nobody seems to hit on is the needle springs. Could be stiff, could mushy. Personally I think those springs are the biggest variable. Could make a difference of the entire length of the little plunger. Also I think that is why perfectly set floats on the bench turn out to be way off when put to use.
How do you compensate? Which way do you compensate?. The ONLY way you can really tell where you're at is by the external riser tube. But nobody seems to have the needed fittingg, not to mention it's gonna be messy. Also it would require repeated removal of the carbs which is not so easy on some models. Take for instance 74-77 GT380 and GT550. Just to change the needle clip position is an all morning job. If you go the wrong way, you get to do it all over again. And each time you have to re-sync the carbs all over again. I'm getting off track here. Bye

[Eddie]

I agree coyote, wish I could post the video, you can find it on youtube under gt750 carb float adjustment I believe is what I put,, and I did notice that the needle spring was way stiffer than the one I took out, what a pain in the as@#$, im not sure how im going to go about this or if I just leave it alone , I will decide when my throttle cables get here, im just trying to get an idea of what to do before I start doing it....

[Suzukidave]

I would say it wouldnt matter if its a Suzuki or after market float valves the floats need to be set so the valve closes with the floats at the correct level . Too high or low fuel level also affects how the engine runs so getting it right is more important than just fuel leaking out . This info is for hi reving 4 strokes but it gives ya the idea http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tun ... gines.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Coyote]

You need to read between the lines here. Float level is measured from the gasket surface really means the surface the gasket mounts to, NOT on top of the gasket. Is it me or what he says about varying the float height to accomplish leaner or richer normally done by changing needle clip position? If you lower the needle (raise the clip) goes leaner and raise the needle (lower the clip) to fatten it up some. It's all to complicated. What's the purpose of the needles having springs? Maybe it's to dampen the reactions from the fuel sloshing around in the bowl. I don't know. I do know that needles with stiff springs will shut the fuel off sooner and a lower level than needles with mushy soft springs. Is my logic off?

[Glyn.G]

My Brain Hurts!

[Eddie]

well the throttle cables I ordered or not available anymore from bike bandit, they have one but not the other so its going to be a while before I tear stuff apart, im with you! my brain has been hurting ever since I started reading all the different ways that different books say to do this, and all have a different measurement ,, I found a third book that I have and its different than the 1st two! I might look into doing the tube thing or just leaving them alone it runs good just don't want one side to be to lean because of fuel level so I will probably do something damn it

[markush]

The ONLY way you can really tell where you're at is by the external riser tube. But nobody seems to have the needed fitting

I can't imagine that a thing like this is not available for you.

I found another in UK:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Brass-airline-st ... 3f5198235e

Or make it by yourself:

drill through (spare-) drain plug,
solder a piece of brass tube to it.

Or use throttle cable adjuster screws from single carburetor mixing chamber top, to make the fittings. The needed thread is thereon.

[ConnerVT]

We make this to be all so much rocket science complicated, more than it really needs to be. Most everything folks have written so far is correct, but in the real world, some of it is really insignificant to what matters.

The goal of setting the float height adjustment is so the fuel bowl remains filled with fuel in all operating conditions, without overflowing or flooding the engine. The picture Markus posted (showing the level to be right about where the bowl screw heads are) is about the correct lever, for a carb that is in a horizontal position.

In the real world, the carb is very rarely in this position. Engines vibrate, bikes turn, accelerate, and decelerate, and are even parked using the side stand.

Because motorcycles move, it is not a precision measurement. So whatever accommodations are needed to be made, to keep the static, level carb to fill the bowl to the level mentioned above, should be all that matters. Weak vs strong springs in the float needle, gasket or no gasket, tilt or perfectly inverted -- These are all things to consider when deciding how to get to this correct fill level (which you can't see once everything is buttoned back up).

Yes, a level a slight bit higher or lower will have the slightest effect of making a mixture richer or leaner. If your bike is perfectly jetted, and strapped in a fixed position on a dyno, you may even notice. Or maybe not. Once on the street, your butt dyno won't feel it.

I will wager that the majority of issues that folks have with their carbs have nothing to do directly with the actual float height. Floats that bind, floats that sink due to holes, floats that are heavy due to repair, worn/dirty/wrong/incorrectly installed needles/seats, these would be 99% of the root cause of issues blamed on float height.

[yeadon_m]

Markus,
1st, thank you for finding and posting those steam engine connectors.
Next, like you, I like to play and learn, so I am on my way to:
drill through (spare-) drain plug,
solder a piece of brass tube to it.
The brass tube is much cheaper, but this method requires you to already have a set of old spare drain plugs which I do.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221844366323? ... EBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Cheers,
Mike

[Coyote]

I was thinking along those lines, but I don't have a single spare drain plug. Might do the same thing with some short bolts, but then I have a sealing problem.