Coyote wrote:
I need to know if this is true. I was told once before that if the ring gap is not over the pin, (pin under the ring)the cylinder will no go on. True?
Correct. If the ring gap isn't in the correct place, that is - around the pin - the pot won't go over the piston.
Look like you go to the top of the class my friend.
Next time leave the boy at home, you can manage.
Saves on giveaway beer too - you can drink it all yourself!!
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
Well, except for the exhaust it's all back together. Even though I knew it wouldn't change, I doubled checked the timing. All 3 are spot on. I was really interested in the center as the center didn't run the first time it was together. it's dead on the money so it has to be fuel problem right? There is plenty of spark at the right time. Could be a bad seal I suppose. I'm leaving the air cleaner off this time so I can feel for suction at the carb mouth. I even have a vacuum gauge made for a sports car. Don't know if it will work here, but it's worth a shot. The gauge is vey old - about 50 years. There is room for it. I see a spring loaded screw under the tube. I assume that is to adjust for a range. This was given to me so I don't know anything about it It was used to synchronize old Strombergs. on the sports car racing circuit.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
OK. Intercourse the gauge. At 50 years old it's struggling - trust me I know! I feel the aches and pains of 50+++ years.
If the timing is good it ''must' be carburation or some part of it.
I would suggest that you make sure all the jets are clean and clear - I know you have checked them, but please bear with me.
When you are POSITIVE they are OK, then make sure the carbs are synchronised. As near as fukkit is to a swearrword.
We only have so much patience - or life to life. Sometimes 'close' is as near to perfect that you'll get.
I have a small issue with my 550K that when I pull up at a junction (or whatever) the tickover is a tad high - 2000+ rpm-ish or whatever. I just change down and let the clutch out to half stall the engine, and the revs drop to normal tickover - and stay there. Why? I don't give a sh1t - it just does. The carbs are 'tired' and there's something worn. Like me.
They are 40+ years old - so do I G.A.S?
I'm sure you can work that out.
The answer is a big resounding 'NO'.
The bike is old. The carbs are worn. It runs OK - ish. Run it. Enjoy it. It will never be new again.
I'm a fool as I have another 550 nearly ready. I will then do a 550J that is in the garage.
I may then do another that's in the garage - or not.
Go with what you have. IT WILL NEVER BE PERFECT AGAIN.
Failing that - get a 1200 Bandit. It will scare the crap out of you and run, and run, and run etc.
But not half the heartache and fun - you choose my friend.
BTW, the gas cap is on the 550 almost ready to run - pics soon.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
Coyote wrote:Well, except for the exhaust it's all back together. Even though I knew it wouldn't change, I doubled checked the timing. All 3 are spot on. I was really interested in the center as the center didn't run the first time it was together. it's dead on the money so it has to be fuel problem right? There is plenty of spark at the right time. Could be a bad seal I suppose. I'm leaving the air cleaner off this time so I can feel for suction at the carb mouth. I even have a vacuum gauge made for a sports car. Don't know if it will work here, but it's worth a shot. The gauge is vey old - about 50 years. There is room for it. I see a spring loaded screw under the tube. I assume that is to adjust for a range. This was given to me so I don't know anything about it It was used to synchronize old Strombergs. on the sports car racing circuit.
Ebay the friggin' thing.
Some fool will pay big bucks for that because it's 'old'.
Wish someone would pay big bucks for me, 'cos sure a sh*t I'm there too.
Last edited by Alan H on Thu Aug 27, 2015 12:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
Those uni-syns can work pretty well. I know people who swear by them. You only need to adjust the spring if the vacuum pegs the little indicator, or it won't move at all.
Lane
If you stroke it more than twice; you're playing with it.
Too many bikes, too much time, ENOUGH SPACE, FINALLY! Never enough money.........
You can still buy those. The adjusting ring is set to center the ball in the tube. Then do not touch the adjustment and sync the other carbs/TBs to center the ball and they'll all be pulling the same vacuum. The oil pump cover interferes on the right carb.
At least he dates girls.
