motives questioned

[T350Rebel]

I am a newbie here who has done a lot more taking than giving at this point. I am also a person of limited means and I am nursing a 1969 T350 back to life and have had to make some decisions. I am sure that I am not looking to restore a 100 point concours winner. I just want to sample and enjoy an experience of past motorcycling that I dreamed of as a teenager in the 70's. Having said that, when building a 'runner,' what are are reasonable boundaries of 'good enough' as pertains to the restoration?

Mark

[tz375]

I love shiny bikes but I tend to build "runners" and no longer have any patience to build show queens, so maybe I'm the wrong guy to answer that, but that never stopped me before.....

SAFE is important and PRETTY is nice but not essential. If it runs well and is safe but scruffy, to me that's a win. "Shiny" can be added later if you get around to it.

For example if spokes and rims are dull and slightly rusty, an SOS pad followed by a rattle can of sliver is fine. Pitted spokes are not. New shiny spokes are nice if and when you feel so inclined and if you never get around to that, as long as it runs and you are enjoying it, that's all good in my book. Do what feels right to you.

If I make a really pretty, shiny bike, the first thing I do is sell it because there is no point in keeping it indoors in a museum and if I won't ride it because it will only deteriorate (which it will) what is the point. Building beautiful bikes is a special joy but it isn't always the main event for me.

YMMV

[Craig380]

+1 to what Richard / TZ said. I love to see a near-concours machine ... but I also like to see what we Brits call an 'oily rag' restoration.

A couple of years back I spent the longest time just walking around and around a T305 that had badly faded paint, spots of rust here and there, and dull grey engine cases, simply because it was a rare and honest bike.

My 10 cents is: the most important thing is to get the bike alive and running safely, then attend to the cosmetics to suit your taste. Getting it running and riding means another little piece of history is saved from the wrecker's yard.

[titan performance]

I can't disagree with what the guys above have said....but be aware that a full restoration is a big and costly task. You can't half restore a bike really. You can clean and tidy it up, or restore it.
A mate asked us to lightly restore his LC350 (4LO) a couple of years back, and I refused. He asked us to tidy it up...but the bike was a wreck, with no redeeming features at all. I told him...shall I paint the frame and leave the body work, what about the wheels and engine?....in the end we did the lot as he realised the point I was making.

[akendall1966]

If you have time and energy for it you can do quite a lot on a limited budget if you place a low cost on your labour.

Paint is 90% preparation, but good results can be had with rattle cans.
Fasteners and other zinc plated items can be restored using home brew baths like the one described here http://home.comcast.net/~rt66tbird/webs ... ating.html I use this recipe to good effect.
Chrome and other bright work is the budget killer, but only required if you want bright and shiny.

If your enjoyment is going to come from riding it and not looking at it; safe, roadworthy and reliable is all that you need. But don't listen me because that what I said I would do and have just got back from the post office after sending off a bunch of stuff to the chrome platers.

Watch out its easy to get sucked in, as Titan P said half done looks worse than not started, and the finish line seems a lot closer before your start, than when you think your half way.

[kettle kid]

Too many people think, when they buy a classic Suzuki, restore... restore..... restore.. Why? First get the bike up and running, then you can work on the cosmetics. Your only original once, then it's gone... It took 40+ years to look this good.. So if you buy a original bike, get it running, and use as is... But if your budget is enough to restore it, then do that, but be quick, as the cost of restoration is rising day by day, and sooner rather than later is the order of the day.. A few years ago, I was buying Suzuki gt switch gear for a few bucks,( for parts with my switch restoration service ) but now people who are selling switch gear in a bad condition, with parts broken or missing are asking $15 + a side.. Look at the prices on the GT550/750 4LS $500-800 two years ago I bought one for $230... I think I will go into the garage now, and stroke it, what a good buy...

[Coyote]

There's a certain appeal to a ' rat bike'. Something that looks like it should have been in the salvage yard 20 years ago, but is mechanically sound and runs great.
Personally, I like my bike presentable and clean. I couldn't care less if it's correct or not. I am currently reviving the wrong bike for me as I will go out of my way to eliminate ALL chrome possible. Bikes are for riding -- not polishing. Build it to please yourself. To hell with everyone else. As long as YOU love it, nothing else really matters.

[ConnerVT]

One thing I've said before: The way to make a small fortune restoring vintage motorcycles is to start with a large fortune.

I agree with the "It was only original once" way of thinking. There is/was a nice display of vintage Japanese motorcycles at the Motorcyclepedia Museum in Newburgh, NY. While the near original restorations were quite interesting, I get more excited when I see an old bike "In The Wild" - out on the road, cleaned up and running well, with its 40+ years of age showing, but under control.

[oldjapanesebikes]

SAFE is important and PRETTY is nice but not essential.

+ 1 to that. I do restorations for my own enjoyment, but the bike I ride most often ( my red 1976 A) is still mostly original and not pretty at all. It's whatever floats your boat.

[Suzukidave]

Maybe i am reading it wrong but when i see restored in the description of a motorcycle i am expecting to see the bike at least "as manufactured " . So if i see a bike with custom paint , non stock rims or exhausts etc .. to me that makes it rebuilt not restored . And thats completely great with me as anyone on this list knows to me a stock bike is just one that hasnt been modded.... yet

[Coyote]

Dave, anyone can tell by your avatar that you love em' just the way they never made em'

[Desert_75]

I like to make it safe (fork seals, brakes, cables, tires, suspension, etc.) and ride it for a season to make sure I still love it. Then in the off season I'll tear it down to the frame.

It's easy to get in over your head $$$$ with these smokers, not for everyone.

[Vintageman]

I think if you strive for perfection in restoring. It means you won’t drive it like you should. For if you truly ride it (thousands of miles), it will again become used, dirty, and dull. I don't care how hard and long you wax and polish it after each ride (yes that helps for sure). So if you plan to ride it don't be discouraged if your pristine bike doesn’t look so pristine. I am not so fuzzy any more, I love to ride.

To me it’s how well it runs. There is something very special about an old 2 stroke engine when it runs as it should. Not sure what you bike looks like but, a gentle nonabrasive cleaning with simple chemicals and nylon bristle can make a bike clean up well. If seat cover only that’s not too expensive

What you don’t want to do is break down once you ride

So things like new float valve(so it won’t flood ), floats if brass is about to have corrosion holes then float become sinker, new points (or file the ones you have). Make sure condenser solid. See if wire to it is loose or shaking the hole innards of it. Add oil the point lubricating felt. Check plug cap resistance. Time engine ignition.

Make sure no junk, rust bits in gas tank aclean best you ( Metal rescue-Evapo rust if some rust) add inline fuel filter maybe. Make sure oil pump is pumping (imagine it is but can fail), lines banjo bolts are snugged (not too tight) and oil tank is flushed of gunk including feed line to pump. Monitor the oil lines often for air bubbles. Carry a few oz. of two stroke oil and dump a little in tank if there is air to get you home: check valve failed on oil lines… need to fix only if so.

Take off tires, lube spoke tightening nuts and go around it give each one a tightening or more as needed. Remove rust inside, get new tires, tube liner for spokes nuts and tubes (duro inexpensive). See if wheel bearing turn OK. Clean and add grease to one the rear you can. Clean up brake drum area of rust/dirt. If pads still glued to shoes, some pad left, good to go
Clean carbs. Check all brass jets and replace as needed I would replace needle jet if any since of pitting inside … have to covert to 159 series still low cost.

Make sure Steering neck bearings have some fresh grease. Fork seals if they need it. Drain oil refill. Make sure lights work and fresh battery else they will all burn out.

Top end. If you just decode get new rings (check gap may not need but so low cost why not) some normal cylinder wear is OK. Clean up and smooth piston skirt if needed. Take off very little metal if any. Don’t go crazy and hone every scratch out… too much clearance now. You can just clean up with scotch bright and move on

As I said if the center seal smokes simply because it a little dry/hard if right try the modern seal condition additive in gear oil - $10. Fresh gear oil of course. Your clutch plates may be sticky, take off cover remove each disk wipe and re-oil. You will need a low cost cover gasket. You need the right size Philips to remove cover bolts or low cost impact driver is better. A lot of people strip Philips head, no reason for that
So I think you will have a 3/4 hundred bucks into it to be a reliable runner and all depends what you are starting with for a bike

Sure i forgot a thing or two

Fun Stuff!

[Flywheel]

First off, I would like to add at the beginning (and in the middle) of every riding year I check all critical bolt/nut torque values for safety's sake, I think that's a good starting point whenever you first buy a motorcycle (whether it's street or dirt)

As for my own personal experience in a nut shell, I bought my GT185 in winter of 2013 on a whim. It was in decent shape, not running, not Pa inspected for 8 years w/ 5400 miles on the clock. Work performed to get it road worthy:
1. new tires/tubes
2. new generator brushes
3. fresh oil: 2 stroke and transmission
4. cleaned voltage regulator point contacts
5. checked all bolt/nut torque values
6. adjusted clutch
7. new Pa. inspection


The bike is now not my main ride, but still gets approx 1500 miles use a year. She does have cosmetic flaws so from time to time I tinker on it in my spare time: pull the rear shocks and polish, recover the seat, etc. My main goal is to have a safe, presentable, reliable vintage machine. I think I've accomplished that.

[pearljam724]

It is extremely expensive, time consuming to completely restore any make or model motorcycle. Depends on what level of restoration makes you in particular happy. Pending on your wallet, time and desire to implement any of those factors. Who doesn't like to look at vintage bikes restored to a high level ? If you're contemplating that route. I would suggest mildly restoring the motor first. Pistons, rings, bores, rods and definitely crank. After that, slowly restore the cosmetics to your desire over a length of time. Those things are worth it to a lot of people. Some it's not. You have to be the one to decide that level or restoring based on your desire, time and money.