Alan H wrote:Something like leading link forks to push' the wheel forward a tad might be the way, but really a couple more degrees rake on the steering head. Wonder if any bikes have slightly offset forward forks compared to the steering head?
That would all affect steering characteristics of course, but a couple of degrees would give more clearance between pipe and tyre.
It's getting the data thats the problem Alan - short of trying every set of 41mm clamps ever made, or indeed different complete fork sets,the ultimate conclusion would be to have a set made specifically for this bike. But that costs - and this is / was meant to be a low-budget build track bike. I'll try the 16" front wheel / tyre combo as it's a relatively cheap potential solution and if it doesn't work, I can sell-on the parts.
In the no-blame culture that I actively embrace, it's the GT750 motor's fault.................
Garry
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I know I can stop anytime.
no progress since the house move Dave - once the new garage is sorted, I will re-address the cylinder head mounts and hopefully move it on from there. However, that will be delayed somewhat as I am trying to ready the Tesi project for display at a national bike show in March '15 and its not playing ball.........
I monitor your progress with envy...............
Garry
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I know I can stop anytime.
had some spare time to kill today, so I pulled the dust sheet off the XR11/73 project and decided to address some of the inherent problems that surface when trying to squeeze a quart into a pint pot.
Although I can replace the outer spark plugs, I can't fit any plug caps to them as the alloy beam frame runs directly overhead...........
so - off with its head..............
some differing combustions happening here - this is cylinders 1 & 2........
and this is numbers 2 & 3.........
the old head gasket proved to be rather stubborn to remove - had to resort to using the trusty steel ruler to ease it away....
never fails............
Garry
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I know I can stop anytime.
old racer wrote:............
And it looks like it's been burning gearbox oil on the right.
I think that's the left pot. L and C are close to each other and the primary drive sits between C and R which is why the spacing is larger there. That carbon could be from excess fuel or oil. If oil, it's probably a leaky check valve allowing oil to drain down into the crankcase.
well - still waiting for the cylinder head modifications to be completed - but after a lengthy chat with a UK engineering company, I purchased one of these.............
its a 3mm barrel spacer that, when fitted, replicates the works Suzuki TR750 race bikes porting, without having to carve the ports open. Neat eh ?
Will have to skim the barrel top surface to suit, modify the pistons skirts and remove some material from the head to get the correct compression ratio, but with a set of suitable spannies I should be getting 80+ bhp at the rear wheel. That'll do for starters.....
Garry
I'm addicted to brake fluid, but I know I can stop anytime.
garry55 wrote:well - still waiting for the cylinder head modifications to be completed - but after a lengthy chat with a UK engineering company, I purchased one of these.............
its a 3mm barrel spacer that, when fitted, replicates the works Suzuki TR750 race bikes porting, without having to carve the ports open. Neat eh ?
Will have to skim the barrel top surface to suit, modify the pistons skirts and remove some material from the head to get the correct compression ratio, but with a set of suitable spannies I should be getting 80+ bhp at the rear wheel. That'll do for starters.....
Mine does that with JEMCO's and very simple porting and NO spacer. With spacer I'd be looking for 100 at the rear wheel....
BTW, raise the barrel 3mm = 0.5mm and take 4.0mm off the top is a suggestion. Then drop the floor of the transfers and exhausts to 1mm below the piston at TDC. There are two ways to approach that. First is with conventional porting tools and the second is to use a Dremmel with cut off wheel to slice a chunk off the floor of the port.
If you want it to rev more than the stock 6500, raising the exhaust port is necessary for enough blowdown timing. 3-4mm is enough and make inlet and exhaust a little wider but be careful not to get too wide on the inlets.
