Looking beyond the sprocket (I have a new one), the wheel hub is quite oxidized. I know some work with scotch-brite will bring it back to life, but that is difficult with the spokes in place. I am not afraid to re-lace and true a wheel as I have done several, but NOS spokes are getting harder (and more expensive) to find. I'd rather not do that if I can avoid it.
So I was wondering. Has anyone found a spray on product the will more or less just rinse it off? Am I dreaming?
I have an Eagle One product for machined aluminum wheels but I'm leery to use it as these wheels are not a true aluminum. More of a magcheesium alloy. I used it on my Centerline wheels on my coupe and the stuff worked great. But Centerlines these are not.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
I havent tried it .. but .. this guy shows Marvel Mystery oil removes the buildup pretty good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJ-uf4YyeHI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... with luck you may have a can around you could try
I have used MMO for years. I even put a qt. in the crankcase when changing oil. Itls great stuff. Never tried it for that application though -0-- but I will!
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
Depends on how much effort, time and how good you want it to look. To start, Mother's aluminum and wheel polish sold at Walmart works fantastic. That polish has to be applied by hand. That would give you the third best appearance. The second best would be purchasing one of these kits for $20 at Harbor Freight and using it on a high speed drill. The black polish, followed by the brown does wonders. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polishing-Polis ... ls&vxp=mtr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" The best result would come from wet sanding in stages of different grits, followed by using the kit I suggested. That 3rd process takes a few dedicated days or nights. But, the results are amazing if you are patient and do it right. You can always touch it up with the Mother's from time to time as aluminum oxidizes very quickly if you don't attend to it every couple of months after any polish technique. Or you can elect to have it chromed. Bottom line, smoother the surface. The more it will shine. How are you posting pics ? I haven't been able to on here for a long time. Says, " website has met it's quota " or something to that sort.
I'm going to start on the wheels in the next couple of days. I'm trying to finish up the forks first and that may take me the rest of my life. No luck at all removing the old seals. 5 minutes work with a slide hammer produced no movement. I have replaced several sets over the years, but never came across a pair that flat won't move.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
I wonder if a piece of steel cut so it would slide in under the seal with a hole drilled in the middle and then another piece laid on top of the fork also with a hole in the middle . Run a bolt through both and tighten to draw the seal out ?
Looks to me as though the rear hub on my GT500 is either clear-coated or clear anodised. If it were 'bare' aluminium I'd use Blitz Aluminium cleaner (Aussie product that the truckies use to clean their sparkly stuff). It's great -also does a good job on zinc and cad plated nuts 'n bolts, carb bodies etc.
Don't think it would work on the coating though. I have the same issue, I don't really want to despoke/respoke the wheel to polish it but I think it's the only way to do it properly.
