Anyone familiar with this MC

[Coyote]

Jim, I might do that but first I'm going to check the local salvage. Maybe today.

[Coyote]

I went to the salvage and turned up nothing. I saw a couple that were similar but had slanted cups. Must have been used on more radical bars than I will be using. All of them I looked at were in equally poor condition. They had a really nice new in bag Magura. Would be perfect, but I couldn't justify the $110 price tag. And I would also need a pressure switch as the Magura had no provision for a brake switch. Really nice MC though.
So I came home and took my POS and threw it in the laundry basin. Flushed everything with super hot high pressure water. It went to working! Plunger moves smoothly back an forth, but there is still a lot of old dirty fluid that I cant get out. I removed the badly discolored cup, old decayed o-ring and cleaned the surface under the cup. There are 2 holes under the cup. Roughly checking with calipers one is .180 and the other is .050. Shouldn't there be a teeny tiny hole as well or is the .050 the return? Seems way larger than I remember.
So I decided to take it apart where I could clean it out good, check the bore condition and of course the seals (cups) on the plunger. Now I am at that miserable *#%+&#^ snap ring. I fought it for an hour last night and gave up, knuckles bleeding. God how I hate that snap ring. I need to get it out or I will never get it clean. Going to fight it again today as it is great for expanding your vocabulary. The extended tips I made for my high quality snap ring pliers reach and grab it just fine. But when I squeeze it the tips flex and won't close the ring enough to extract it. Anybody have any tricks?. May take it to the cycle shop later and see if they can get it out if I continue to fail.

[pearljam724]

They make punches or picks that are small enough in diameter to fit the holes of the C clip. Simply grab one end of the clip through the hole and turn. It may break, the clip. But, just replace it.

[Coyote]

I tried working with one hole already. The snap ring just turns round and round in its groove. Finally got it hooked in one hole with a dental pick. The hook on the pick just bent out straight.

[yeadon_m]

I ground the tips of my circlips pliers after a fight like you describe and with my 'special tool' the snap ring came out easily. Will do if only you can get two eye holes pinched at the same time.

On the holes, there are just two under the reservoir. One large, one teeny! with the plunger out it'll be easier to see. The teeny one is the return and it should be very small, like a small carb jet size.

Cheers,
Mike

[Coyote]

I cheated and took it to a cycle shop. He had the right tool. Long nose right angle snap ring pliers. Came right out.
I found the tiny hole after wire brushing a little more. How in the world do you clean that passage out? Seems to be completely blocked with ancient trash

[Suzukidave]

If you are asking about the return hole i use a strand pulled from a wire brush .. seems to be the perfect size but i do see a post of a wire drill bit being used .

[Coyote]

I give up! This is an Asco master cylinder. Internally it's in terrible condition. Parts for this Asco are more expensive than for the Nissin master cylinder. It needs roughly $92 worth of parts. That makes the new Magura MC a real bargain at $110 with sales tax. Actual price is $101.XX.
There is no tiny hole like I am used to. I thought it was there near the 12 o-clock position but that isn't a hole. Here is a picture of the junk pile.

[Suzukidave]

the tiny hole is at 7 oclock in your picture but i am sure you know that already .. rebuild kits dont look too bad http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... +&_sacat=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[tz375]

If the bore is corroded. it's junk. Of course you could have it machined out and sleeved but that will probably cost more than that Magura you mentioned.

If the bore is OK a rebuild kit is not expensive as long as the reservoir isn't too badly dried up and distorted.

Last one I rebuilt looked worse than that one when I started and I like to think it looked close to as new condition when it was finished.

[Coyote]

That's the problem. Not only does it need a rebuild kit, it also needs a resiviour, an o-ring and a diaphragm. Then there is the misery of trying to make the body presentable. Either way I go i'm going to have to use a pressure switch. This body is badly eroded where the OEM style switch goes and probably wouldn't accept another. The OEM switch was already broken and went to little tiny pieces on removal. So regardless, I need a switch as well. Those OEM switches are Mickey Mouse even on a good day. Hard to adjust correctly and fragile as a block of C4
Above all, I can't believe with all the members we have that no one had a spare MC in some sort of reasonable condition.

[Suzukidave]

If i had access to my parts in Florida and i had one i would send it to you without thinking twice