dent removal from oem pipes

[aslsmm]

hello, needing these dents removed.





thers more but you get the idea

[oldjapanesebikes]

Stud gun welder and a pull hammer or lift plate will work for some of those. It can work really well - if the stud doesn't pull out a chunk of metal when you do the pull. Don't ask me how I know

See this video for an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsC7vrgXj_0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[re5rotary]

Hi the only real way to fix pipes like these is to split them down the seams and open the pipes up. Repair the dents and weld the pipes back together. Of course the chrome needs to be stripped first and rechromed afterwards. Looking at the seam welding on at least one of those pipes I would say they have been apart before regards Terry

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Ive still got some pipes for sale that are in very decent condition, at least way better than those with the dents for sure.

[tz375]

Looks like a 380 .

[oldjapanesebikes]

. Looking at the seam welding on at least one of those pipes I would say they have been apart before...

That is actually what they looked like from the factory eh ? Locally one of the chrome shops mistakenly tried to grind/polish out the lumps and totally ruined a set of decent original GT550L pipes. They ended up in the bin.

[aslsmm]

H2 pipes. lol. 380...the kawi guys would hang for that comment.

thanks guys. i thought about the weld and tack hammer idea. i have talked to a few guys in auto body shops and they have all said "no one works on those old dinosaur bikes anymore. it's impossible, your wasting money." lol

[oldjapanesebikes]

i have talked to a few guys in auto body shops and they have all said "no one works on those old dinosaur bikes anymore. it's impossible, your wasting money." lol

If you do a search back through this site, one of the members (Gordon, or 'ilbikes') did a superlative restoration on a 1974L and he explained how he did his pipes. Take a look at this link: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1929&start=30" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; . I have experimented with the same process (stud welder and pulling) as I plan to do a set of J/K pipes and have to deal with the same issues. As offered before - if the metal is thin then you just have to be careful as the stud will rip a hole in the pipe wall when you do the pulling which you then have to deal with in some way.

[aslsmm]

thanks. that helps alot.

[garry55]

the gravel rash / scrapes can be restored by filling with bronze weld then filing / sanding to shape before re-chroming. Be sure to fill any tiny air holes though. I sprayed some black paint on the repair to highlight any deficiencies before sending for plating.I used this method to restore the exhaust heat shield on my TS400 and the scraped front mudguard on my OR50 restorations. Takes time and patience, but proven to work.

[re5rotary]

Hi yep the welding was pretty average on the seam but I still think one of those pipes has been re welded. These seamed pipes are quite easy to get apart as the baffles are only spot welded on one side. If you linish the original weld down they will come apart. Only the J/K models are a bit tricky as the rear baffle plate is brazed all the way around. A good TIG welder can weld back down the seam and easily replicate the factory welds. I have rebuilt many seamed pipes this way Suzuki and Kawasaki regards terry