GT550 budget build

[Suzukidave]

Where you need to test voltage is at the wiring harness connection to the coils .. the orange wires as the are the + connection when the key is on . while testing your bike you can leave the charger hooked up , just disconnect when the engine is running .

Okay, I did this at the harness and got the same reading 10.1 volts for each orange wire. Battery is still at 11.9.

. When you are cranking the engine you can put several fingers over the mouth of the carb , you should feel a equal draw .. this can also be done when the bike starts but not on one cylinder , put several fingers over the carb mouth and it will draw extra fuel and may start running if you are getting spark .

I might need more explanation on this one.. Do you mean remove the air filters and use my fingers to block passage at the intake?

Try the timing light test i suggested on each coil wire while cranking the engine .. getting no flash .. you are getting no spark

Did this and I get light when I connect the test light to the orange wires at the harness, but not when I connect them to the spark plug wires.

Looks like you have a couple of volts drop through your electric system but that is common with these old electrics , it can be minimized with all clean ( wiring ) plug connections but most often its right in the key switch . #2 question .. right remove the filters and block the carb mouth by laying a couple of fingers across the carb mouth . # 3 question i am referring to a timing light not the " test light " you were useing to set the points .

[Cragdog]

Looks like you have a couple of volts drop through your electric system but that is common with these old electrics , it can be minimized with all clean ( wiring ) plug connections but most often its right in the key switch . #2 question .. right remove the filters and block the carb mouth by laying a couple of fingers across the carb mouth . # 3 question i am referring to a timing light not the " test light " you were useing to set the points .

Yeah I think it would do me well to go through the entire harness at some point and clean and replace a bunch of wires and connections.

Okay, timing light. I still need to go out and get one of those..

[Suzukidave]

If you have a Harbor Freight near by they have a couple of basic timing lights at a reasonable price http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... ming+light+" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ......... looks like most of the feedback says get the 29$ one

[pearljam724]

Couldn't agree more. Also, double check the little ground wire that attaches to the battery box and frame. Make sure it is secured tight with clean eyelets, washers, bolt and contact surface. That ground wire needs to be free of oxidation. Also double check the points gap, condition, cleaned, etc.

Are you able to take a picture of this ground wire? This is something I might be missing.

You're not testing the battery correctly. You are only testing the voltage with no power being drawn. You have to check to see how much voltage drop you receive when the motor is turning over when you attempt to start it. If the voltage dive bombs when you attempt to start the bike with the electric starter. You have a dead cell. It's not definite, but that's why you have to properly test the voltage during these test phases. I understand the bike is only firing on 2, making it difficult to get an idle or higher rpm reading. But, you still can test the battery through those other methods until you get it to fire. The ground wire I mentioned. Is attached to the battery box on one end and grounds to one of the two bolts attaching the regulator. The wire is very short. Maybe 4 inches or so. Circled in the pic. That's off a 750. But, the 550 is identical. Hang in there, you'll get it to fire on all 3.

[pearljam724]

I mean isn't that the purpose of a charging system? My brothers bike has a dead battery, but still runs if you simply kick it over. Why wouldn't the same be for this bike?

Your brother's bike has a magneto ignition. Those type of systems don't require an external power source to start and run. These GT's and most other early 2 strokes don't have magnetos. This is known as a battery excited ignition on our bikes. They will not start and run without a good hot battery. With a low or dead battery, you could kick it till the world looks level and it still won't start.

Yep. But, with a dead cell they will often start. Just not run on all cylinders. If the battery is dead. You could kick until your nuts drag. Lol !

[Coyote]

Cragdog, There are a ton of "magneto vs. alternator" articles on Google. You are correct that a magneto has a magnet in the flywheel. but the difference between the two types of ignitions are huge. Here is a sample, simple explanation article.
http://askville.amazon.com/major-differ ... d=71076263" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Cragdog]

I found a nice little discussion about the magneto and alternator systems. The last comment helped a lot in understanding their differences.
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=9616

[Cragdog]

Pretty happy to say that I have the GT550 firing on all three cylinders now.
I spent the day focusing mostly on my electronics. I took everything apart at the junction box and cleaned all the connections and switched out my regulator and rectifiers for other ones I have in the stockpile that were in better shape. Had the battery charging all night (not to say that I think its in good shape..) so after a few hours of cleaning I went to start it and it started after only a few kicks. Each pipe was heating up well and I had it running for as long as I could keep gas in my turkey baster . I attempted to test the battery output as it was idling, and it seemed to be jumping erratically from low voltage to high voltage. I don't have a tach hooked up so I could gauge my rpms. I still need to do a good bit of tuning. I noticed my center carb adjusting nut was coming loose due to engine vibration so that put my carbs out of sync. Took em off, gave them a quick bench sync and tightened it up better. Seems to be running better now. I still have a TON of work to do, I need to take another look at my timing and point gaps, but I was really happy to just sit and run it stationary for a while. Boy these motors sound so amazing and unique. I love the firecracker sound they make at idle . The baffles were removed from this one so it's pretty loud, haha, but I dig it. Hopefully soon I will have the means to move on to everything else that requires attention. Left to do are:

New tires
Clean wheels
Install front caliper, new lines, rebuild master cylinder
Install rear brake pedal and test current shoes.
Give attention to front and rear suspension
Finish electronics cleaning and assembly
Restore gauges
Restore controls
Clean gas tank (nearly complete)
Acquire gas cap
New or reupholstered seat
Exhaust seals and gaskets
Adjust left exhaust to fit crossover properly
New chain
Chain guard??
Acquire oil tank cap
Properly time points system
Tune carbs
Eventually Jemcos, different bars, maybe a few other mods, I don't want to take it too far away from stock but get it somewhere more cosmetically appalling to me with slightly better performance.

Here's a videoed it running:
http://youtu.be/StfVlIZlGWc

And my attempt at videoing battery output while running (poor quality):
http://youtu.be/EA1dTYqmC4Y

[Suzukidave]

Thats great you have her running on all 3

[Coyote]

You don't have far to go on tuning. Sounds nearly perfect already. Chamber will add eye appeal and they sound trick, but you know what? I prefer the sound of the stock exhaust. That low mumbling does it for me.
Well you certainly have progressed in leaps and bounds. See if you can find a bottle of No.7 chrome and metal polish. It is slightly abrasive and it will make your wheels look like new! It removes rust and stains like no other I have found.

[yeadon_m]

I have to add my congratulations, and to agree, that 550 is idling GREAT and sounds great too. The baffles will flatten the sound at higher revs but I think you have that rare thing, a stock full exhaust that sounds as Suzuki intended. There really isn't a sound quite like a slowly idling GT triple. Love it )
Mike

[pearljam724]

Any 550 sounds fantastic with stock pipes. Unlike, the 750 in my opinion. The 750 stocks pipes sound are baffled too much as a result of the very dense cylinder head. You da man. My advice on the battery would be. If the bike ever stops firing on any cylinder again. Check the voltage at that very moment. Before making an attempt at charging it again. You'll then know that it's the battery. Or the rectifier / regulator not working. Draining the battery.

[Cragdog]

Happy new year ya'll!!!
Thanks you guys, I really like the sound of these pipes the way they are right now too. If I give them some TLC they'd probably turn out pretty nice as well. I'm looking forward to working on the wheels and everything else to get this thing rideable. I'll definately be updating the board as I get going along. You guys here have been an invaluable resource and really knowledgable, thanks for the help and interest in getting this bike running again.

[Coyote]

Like you said in your video -- EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaa

[Cragdog]

Like you said in your video -- EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaa

Hahaha, you caught that huh? Couldn't resist, hearing it idle steadily really got me stoked!