GT750 "Liquid Cooled" emblem problem

[jabcb]

Tried replacing the original "Liquid Cooled" emblems with new ones.
One blew off & the other keeps peeling up.

Any suggestions on how to glue on another new pair?

[pjmcburney]

Tried replacing the original "Liquid Cooled" emblems with new ones.
One blew off & the other keeps peeling up.

Any suggestions on how to glue on another new pair?

Um, they have a strip of glue on the back of them, yeah?


Otherwise, super glue or a very thin smear of contact cement?

They normally never want to come off at all - any new ones I've installed have never come off and any old one's I've had to remove were particularly recalcitrant and required all sorts of heat and careful levering and such.

[GT750Battleship]

+ 1 on "the above" it pays to bend them a little to match the barrel,I have found that the sticky back,does need a bit of "extra" adhesive added to stop the ends from popping up !
Usually they can be difficult to get off ! I've noticed cheap ones on Ebay recently,rather expensive genuine, somebody gave me a set of the originals in "black" with the "stroke" in the Q at the side, & not at the bottom...occasionally these do come up for sale on Ebay..
Cheers,
GT750Battleship

[pearljam724]

Take a small wire wheel or completely sand off the old contact cement on the barrels before adding anything. Then, like stated above add new contact cement. The new emblems have a very good 3m contact cement on them. If you don't remove the old contact cement on the barrels. The contact cement on the emblems won't be as strong as it should be. After you peel the contact paper off, it helps to add contact cement around the outer most perimeter as there is nothing on the edges to allow easy pealing off of the contact paper on the most recent emblems. That's why yours are bending up on the edges, moving air may be lifting the edges. Both the barrels and emblems need new contact cement on both surfaces to be the strongest. You have to allow both surfaces to dry, before making contact. +1 to prebending them first.

[jabcb]

Thanks. I've seen your contact cement procedure on the "Wheeler Dealers" TV show but didn't think of using it here.

[Barry S.]

JB Weld is holding mine on.

[GT750Battleship]

Yep,that will do it,a little bit of an "overkill" but they won't be coming off!!
Cheers,
GT750Battleship.

[pearljam724]

Thanks. I've seen your contact cement procedure on the "Wheeler Dealers" TV show but didn't think of using it here.

You are welcome. You've helped others and myself largely with electrical needs. Nothing I came up with. Lol ! It's just how contact cement works. Adhesion for contact cement works best, when you apply it in very thin layers and completely cover both surfaces. That allows it to dry completely to make it more tacky. Otherwise, if you apply it too thick. It will remain wet under the surface. Not giving it proper strength. You can't apply it to one surface, then stick 2 pieces together like regular glues. And you can't stick those surfaces together before it dries. It doesn't work that way. When used properly, contact cement is extremely strong and long lasting.

[Coyote]

That's odd. I had no trouble with mine after many meticulous hours of getting all the old glue off. Pre-shaped them and stuck them on with the OEM adhesive backing. They never moved or tried to peel. Even after a 1500 mile road trip.

[pearljam724]

That's odd. I had no trouble with mine after many meticulous hours of getting all the old glue off. Pre-shaped them and stuck them on with the OEM adhesive backing. They never moved or tried to peel. Even after a 1500 mile road trip.

It's not odd. You stated, " After many meticulous hours of getting all the old glue off. " He didn't remove the old glue, where as you did. With a wire wheel on a drill, it only takes a minute or two per side.

[jabcb]

Thanks for the tips.

Did have an amusing thought for the JB Weld suggestion.
I could see someone (an amateur mechanic like me) JB Welding it on & being pleased with the permanent results.
But then having someone point out that its upside down.

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Mostly its bad surface prep, so remove all of the old glue, then use the appropriate 'scotch brite' pad to clean the recessed surface. Then wipe it down with alcohol, let it air dry, then bend the emblem as necessary and stick them on.

[yeadon_m]

I believe I used carb cleaner on a rag and it whooped the old glue in short order. Lord knows what the glue was made of, but it came off as a nasty jelly and only part-dissolved in carb cleaner!

Mind you, I still used a dab or two of superglue at the ends and +1 on pre-bending to get the profile right first.

Mike

[Suzsmokeyallan]

You are correct Mike, the glue does behave strangely, I've seen it turn to dust and simply flake off once you remove the emblems. Then the rest gets gooey once any sort of cleaner hits it.