I want to rebuild the engine from my T350..
Can someone help me out with a few questions:
New gaskets ( where to buy?)
New bearings (numbers of the bearings who I have to use)
New carburetors… (are the Mikuni VM32 the same as the VM32SC?)
Electrical Ignition (What type is the best to buy?)
Wire loom… I have to change it… isn’t it because of the Ignition?
Expansion Chambers (Where to buy?)
New carburetors… (are the Mikuni VM32 the same as the VM32SC?)
Electrical Ignition (What type is the best to buy?)
Wire loom… I have to change it… isn’t it because of the Ignition?
Expansion Chambers (Where to buy?) Not the original!!
woertske wrote:But these questions are still there...
New carburetors… (are the Mikuni VM32 the same as the VM32SC?)
Electrical Ignition (What type is the best to buy?)
Wire loom… I have to change it… isn’t it because of the Ignition?
Expansion Chambers (Where to buy?) Not the original!!
1. Not sure, but check HERE and HERE. Best to stick to original if you can.
2. Any really, but points are OK too.
3. No you don't have to change it if you fit electronic ignition.
4. Very rare as there aren't many 350s about.
Think of how stupid the average person is, then realise that half of them are more stupid than that.
For the expansion chambers, check with Higgspeed in the UK, he does make them for the T350 (I got a quote from him a few months ago for my T350 that I'm restoring). Another option is JEMCO, here in the US, but shipping overseas might be expensive. It still might be a good option because the Higgspeeds were quite a bit more expensive than the JEMCOs. I ended up ordering the JEMCO pipes, they are being made now, when I get them I will post a picture of them on my T350 restoration thread.
If you can purchase D&G in your country (http://dgperformance.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) for example an RD400 they can be made to fit relatively easy. They are cheap in USA were under $250 new to your door.
If you don't want to ruin stock exhaust for the Screw On flange to make the D&G attach, GT380 flanges that screw on to the pipes (thus screw off) is the same thread pitch as the exhaust threads of the T350 jugs
If you use RD400s D&G you will see that the end of the pipes that attaches to the cylinder mounting flange is double walled so the RD400 mounting flange short pipe fits in between for a good seal. Funny the RD350 is not doubled.
I shorten the pipes by cutting them off right after the double wall section, just past the hard weld so it cuts easy. You can save the double wall and weld it back on or here in USA we have automotive stores that sell short piece of exhaust pipe couplers that are the same size. I like the double wall seal.
You need to remove center stand, but don’t think you need to cuts brackets off frame. Id , but in hindsight may not have needed to.
You need to weld the mounting flanges to your factory screw on couplers. You may have to grind them down some to fit. I have used the GT380 ones and flipped them. Had to remove cooling fins/ If you use the gt380 I don’t think you have to weld RD400 flange and only need to elongate bolt holes so GT380 hole couples mate with RD400 flange holes. If you use the factory screw ons from T350 exhaust you will have to weld the RD400 flanges onto exhaust side of screw on couplers. I think I ground it down some for it had dental work and would make air gaps. You’ll see what is needed when you get into it. It’s easy. In both cases the stock exhaust gaskets works still for good seal.
When you place the pipe on the bike, you will see the rear mounting bracket is an inch or so short of the rear foot peg/exhaust mount. Just weld a right angle tab. The pipes what to hang naturally an inch below that and will take a little force to lift it an inch and mount. This is very little force and have many miles on my pipes no stress cracks.
