GT550 Cafe project

[imquattro]

....condenser/wiring are never breaking the circuit. When the bike shuts off, the electrical system shuting down finally breaks the circuit and you get the one spark?

Sounds exactly like what's happening.

[imquattro]

Still need some help on the diaphram/fuel tap/cock replacement...
Hard to sleep w/ the unsolved problems... <-anyone else like that?

Saw this and thought it applies:

[oldjapanesebikes]

How so very true .....

[tz375]

That's great progress.

It looks as if it starts on the left pot and then maybe the center and perhaps the right one come in at higher revs. That could be electrical or maybe it's just some dirt still in the pilot jet circuits.

I can't remember if you did a compression check, but that would be a good idea now just to see that all three pots are similar compression.

Spark only at switch off sounds like condensor or a short in that set of points.

Getting close now.

BTW, I used a GSX fuel tap IIRC for my last GT750 with 44mm spacing. It needed a tiny amount to be filed off the mounting hole to allow the fatter filter to slide into the tank but nothing serious. Check your gas tap for bolt spacing and check ebay for a similar tap with all the same arrangement of outlets etc in the same places - or at least close enough. Some of them have outlets pointing in the wrong direction. parts N More have a Pingle type mounting bracket/adapter and they sell aftermarket taps that may work for you.

[imquattro]

Thanks for the help tz! I now have a couple options for the fuel petcock/tap whatever its called.

Did some testing this morning and I have a dead short between the R cylinder's condensor and the case (continuity found on the black wire at it's harness plug & well, everything metal). The wire probably got pinched when installing the clutch housing cover.... sigh and ugh.. gear oil mess... again....

[imquattro]

Is it necessary that I keep the vacuum style fuel tap?
Can I just go w/ a non-vacuum fuel tap and plug the vacuum line's port on the carb?

[Coyote]

Nate. Check and double check the pigtail assembly for the right side points. That's where the gremlin is 99 times out of 100.
Vacuum petcock not not necessary. Here's a link to one you can use. Scroll down to near the bottom of the page. You would need the 44mm adapter plate.

http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/suzuki/gt550/?filters" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;[fitting]=universal

[imquattro]

Well, I thought I had replied this morning because the problem was pretty evident:





Easy fix and luckily I had a spare side case gasket. I also stripped the case paint AGAIN and just said to heck with it and polished it.

Fixed the broken/smooshed wire, reinstalled the case cover, filled up the gear box, reinstalled the side & middle pipe & brake peg/lever & fired it up. All three baby!

Wow...

I need to borrow or make/buy a spark plug dial indicator to set the timing before balancing the carbs.
Anyone?

[ja-moo]

That hurt! You should train your students NOT to rap out a new motor, especally a 2 stroke!

[ConnerVT]

I need to borrow or make/buy a spark plug dial indicator to set the timing before balancing the carbs.
Anyone?

And if I can borrow it when you are done...

I'll be in need of one in a few weeks.

[Coyote]

You can borrow mine Nate. This is a precision indicator made in Japan. There are no set screws, It can't be seen in the photo, but there is a nylon sleeve in the spark plug base. The shank of the indicator is a friction fit. Had it for well over 30 years. Actually my bike runs better using the marks on the case.
Keep in mind that the shroud and tank need to be removed to use this.

[imquattro]

Chris! You are too much! I want to see if my set of indicators at work will work prior to mailing stuff back and forth. I'll keep you posted!

You mention marks on the case? Could you explain this? I know for sure that points gap(s) arent set properly, so I would guess I should start there first.

[Coyote]

You mention marks on the case? Could you explain this?

There is a window on the bottom of the points plate. Through that window you can see the 'propeller' marked L, C, and R. Also you will see a line cast in the case.
Gap them all and then proceed to time. Start with the left as you need to rotate the plate to time that set. Set the 'L' on the propeller to the line on the casting, loosen the three screws and rotate the plate till the points just break. You will need an ohmmeter or a battery operated test light to aid in this because you can't see it with the naked eye. When set, tighten the three screws and proceed to the center and right. Those are set by rotating the points. You can start it and check it with a standard automotive timing light. Adjust as necessary.
Isn't there a machine shop class? if so, there should be plenty of indicators there.

[imquattro]

Machine shop was closed the year I started so I inherited a lot of its stuff. I have an assortment of indicators & fixtures so I can wait to get back to work to try setting it up.
Never noticed the window you're referring to, but then, I didn't disassemble the points assembly either.
Thanks for the tips! !!

[imquattro]

That hurt! You should train your students NOT to rap out a new motor, especally a 2 stroke!

Lol, he's a dirt bike motorcross racer so it's, I guess, a bad habit he picked up from that.
Completely different story on 4 stroke motors.