oil leak and hot cylinder

[rob.abiusi]

Hello, I am restoring my 1974 GT750. It was running OK, but had an oil leak. I started messing with it, and noticed that someone had "fixed" the oil lines with some silicone. a local salvage place had a motor, so i grabbed the lines off it. I read on this forum about cleaning and checking the oil pump, and priming the lines. I reinstalled the primed lines, also checked the oil pump (using a drill) and all ports produced oil. once back together, the right cylinder seems to get really hot. (the exhaust at the cylinder head will boil water on it , while the middle and left will not) of coarse I'm worried that i may not be getting oil here and dont want to sieze the engine. I also read another member had a similiar problem and it was a dirty carb pilot jet, what do you recommend I do first. Also the oil leak is coming from the bottom of the engine out of a hole covered by the water pump cover??? There is quite a bit of oil coming from here??? Any and all help is REALLY APPRECIATED!!!!!

[Barry S.]

Give the carbs a good cleaning and poke the crud out of all the passages and jets and blow thru them with carb cleaner and compressed air, it may take a couple of times to get it all. Make sure the floats are set right and not full of gas and sinking. The oil coming out of the drain hole around the waterpump may indicate it needs a new pump seal, the hole is a drain. Check the link and read up on the bike, keep posting.

http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/gt/manuals/gt750man/index.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[oldjapanesebikes]

The oil coming out of the drain hole around the waterpump may indicate it needs a new pump seal, the hole is a drain.

Its also possible that the crankcase is just over filled - to check this, stand the bike on a level spot of ground and undo the level check bolt on the right side cover. It is the hex headed bolt in the centre of the photo below.



Remove the bolt and if oil comes out then let it drain till it stops, and see if that fixes the oil leak from the underside of the engine.

[rob.abiusi]

THANK YOU for the reply, I plan on giving the carbs a good cleaning this weekend, you were right, the crankcase was overfull, i drained out the excess, but didnt want to start the engine without cleaning the carbs first, i'll keep you posted!

[rob.abiusi]

carbs took care of the hot cylinder, Thanks! Unfortunately oil leaking is from waterpump seal. We have been unsuccessful at removing the waterpump. Does anyone have any suggestions, the bike otherwise is running great and I really dont want to have to splint the cases to remove the pump.

[two-stroke-brit]

carbs took care of the hot cylinder, Thanks! Unfortunately oil leaking is from waterpump seal. We have been unsuccessful at removing the waterpump. Does anyone have any suggestions, the bike otherwise is running great and I really dont want to have to splint the cases to remove the pump.

hi there Suzsmokeyallan has a thread about drilling a small hole thro the top case to where the top of the waterpump spindle is so you can tap it out rather than try to pull it out. but i looked and cant find it maybee someone else knows how to find it.



the pic shows the possition of the hole to be drilled.
cheers mark

[rob.abiusi]

Thanks Mark, I have a friend giving the "small pulley puller and heat approach" on Wednesday, if that doesn't work, i will try your diagram! I'll keep you posted....

[oldjapanesebikes]

You plan to use a gear pulley on the impeller ? If its on the impeller, then the one time that I tried that it ended very badly, as the impellers are pretty weak - almost like pot metal - and they break easily. New impellers are no longer available from Suzuki in the US or Canada. All I'm saying is be gentle ! I really take my time now.

If you do manage to duplicate my own ill fated success, then I think Crooks can still supply them in the UK as a pattern part for £25.00 + the shipping of course, and stainless steel ones are also available if you hunt around but will cost more. I'm also pretty sure Reiner also has pattern parts for around €30.

[Suzsmokeyallan]

Most impellers need some careful heat applied to them and then you can remove them with a small puller pressing on the shaft centre, but be very careful as they are NLA and reproductions will cost you upwards of $100.00.
Once its off you can remove the large snap ring and do the mod I've invented to safely get the cartridge out of the engine case.
I also have the top oil seals in stock as you will need that to go under the ball bearing in the top of the cartridge.
Heres the original post about pump removal, you need to read through the two pages carefully since it shows an opened engine at the beginning but can be done to one in the frame if you follow the reading and procedures for collecting the swarf falling in the case.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1956&p=88238&hilit= ... val#p88238" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"

[oldjapanesebikes]

Allan is over paying for his impellers me thinks As I mention above, they are under $50 typically if you shop around.

More info on water pump bits can be found at this link. As mentioned previously, Reiner is an excellent source - just email him for his price list as he can supply either kits, or all the individual parts you may need. Crooks in the UK also can supply kits - just check their web site. Also double check with Suzuki, as they can still supply some items.

And as Allan and I both mentioned - be gentle with the puller !

[tz375]

And in case it wasn't clear from the prior posts, the impeller has to be removed to get the snap ring out. Yank on the impeller to get the pump out will end in tears.

Can someone design and machine this tool please:
Two legged yoke threaded in the center boss. the legs press down on the crankcase centered over the pump.

Through that center boss threads a puller rod with flats at the top to apply a wrench. At the bottom it's hollow to slip over the pump shaft. A hole is drilled through that hollow section to align with the pin hole in the pump shaft.

You take the puller rod and place it over the pump shaft end. Slip in a hardened/toughened pin through the shaft and the rod.

Thread the two legged yoke over the puller rod until it's close to the crankcase surface and then use a wrench to rotate the puller rod. The yoke will seat against the crankcase and the puller rod will slowly pull the pump shaft out.

That can't be too hard to make.

[H2RICK]

That can't be too hard to make.

I wouldn't exactly say that, tz.
A guy would have to do a bunch of really accurate measuring first......then sit down and do a proper drawing with all tolerances indicated......and then select the materials to make the puller pieces
from......and then farm out the actual fabrication of the pieces
(assuming that he has no access to a lathe).
I can see a tool like that costing somewhere north of $100 when all is said and done. The NEXT one would be relatively cheaper.....

[tz375]

That's the old British Understatement