Suzuki 2 Strokes

Do I need the clutch holding tool to disassemble the engine? The Haynes doesn't speak about it, I won't be in the workshop till Sunday to do it and wanted to see if I have to order the tool ahead of time so I can get through everything. And can the holder be purchased in the US, I am only finding UK resources?
thanks!

Hi, if the motor is still in the frame with the chain still hooked to the rear wheel, put the engine in gear and stand on the rear brake while loosening the clutch centre nut. That will hold the clutch sufficiently.

If it's OUT of the frame, you'll either need an air wrench / rattle gun, or a clutch holding tool.

Having said that, the clutch centre nut on my 380 was barely hand-tight when I first inspected it ... previous owner had not tightened it properly, nor locked it properly with the tab washer So you might get lucky ...

You can always jam a rag into the teeth to stop it turning.....that works !

Yes, that works, but you always find yourself in the situation on how to get the last of the three large nuts off (clutch, driven gear, front sprocket). 2 of the three, ok. The third?

Firm believer in the air impact wrench. Makes it child's play.

thanks. I will use the rag to hold the clutch, do it first, since I assume it's splined not disassemble the basket until all 3 are undone. Or, otherwise, I think the rag method works on the crank drive side regardless of whether or not the clutch is assembled. At least that's how the RD worked.

Is there any danger in the clutch basket cracking with the rag method?

Is there any danger in the clutch basket cracking with the rag method?

No. Just stuff the rag between the crank gear and primary gear (on the back side of the clutch assembly). The torque involved is in the center shaft only. The basket feels nothing

titan performance wrote:You can always jam a rag into the teeth to stop it turning.....that works !

love to know how?? as without plates it spins free, rag in teeth only works for crank nut, without holder and no air wrench in gear with chain on and rear brake applied or without chain, use a large socket between teeth of g/box sprkt up against flat wall of casing.

I never have any problems with a air wrench, but incase I do I have welded a t500 con rod to a old sprocket as a locking device.

thank you, Pete. I've said this a few times, but keep being told otherwise. You can get 2 of the large nuts off using the rag method, but always get caught up at the third.

If you dont have a impact gun the electric ones you can find pretty low cost at Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-elec ... 68099.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and many other outlets . And if you ever need to remove the bolt out from the fork lower to replace the seals you will need one for sure .