Suzuki 2 Strokes

could anyone help with a few tips of how to get it off? The manuals seem to be a bit vague, or maybe i'm just getting old - but if anyone has any tips, i would appreciate it a lot. About to start an overhaul.

thanks
MJ in Beirut





the only gt380 in lebanon....

Hi!

I put some GT380 related files on this german internet side:
http://suzuki-gt380.de
There are no real sides, you have to browse the directories.

Rotor removal is shown here
http://suzuki-gt380.de/gt380_dateien/el ... _abziehen/

bye
Markus

Nice set of pictures.

I just removed two GT750 alternators and use a similar approach. Once the extractor bolt is tightened - really tight - smack it straight on with a larger hammer to shock the rotor off. It is sometimes necessary to re-tighten and smack it a second or third time but that's the exception rather than the rule.

i still don't understand. WHERE do you get the shaft from in the first place? Haynes says its from the engine stud, but that can't be right.
Secondly, when you screw it in all the way, then what? Pull on it?

And then there's the curious reference in the manual to the "distance piece", in one of the photos, showing a long tube. Does this go in BEFORE you screw in the 'shaft'

thanks for your patience


MJ in Lebanon

Hi!

Ramjam wrote:i still don't understand. WHERE do you get the shaft from in the first place? Haynes says its from the engine stud, but that can't be right.

Sorry about my english, i'm from Germany. Do you mean the screws?
The smaller one is self made. The bigger one is from the exhaust bracket. For the Denso Rotor you will need one with longer thread.

Secondly, when you screw it in all the way, then what? Pull on it?

How does a rotor puller.
The rotor is pressed onto the conical crank pin. The M10-screw pushes against the crank pin. Because of "action = reaction" the rotor is pushed away from the crank pin, while you turn in the screw (with some power) and are blocking the rotor from turning.
The smaller M8 screw only serves to protect the crankpin end and thread from damage.
For this you also can use a smooth rod, Diam.max. 6,5mm, as shown in the Haynes. The rod must be as long as it reaches the bottom of the thread.

And then there's the curious reference in the manual to the "distance piece", in one of the photos, showing a long tube. Does this go in BEFORE you screw in the 'shaft' thanks for your patience

There is also a special tool from Suzuki: screw and rod in one piece. #09930-33310
e.g. see here http://gs-classic.de/download/SpecialTools.pdf

bye
Markus

hey Markus
thanks for that. Your English is just fine. I think i've got it. You're saying that the second bigger screw, by tightening pulls the rotar off by thrusting it outwards, right?
And it needs the smaller screw just for the simple reason as to not damage the end of the shaft? I mean, what confuses me is why does this smaller one NEED to be screwed in. I think this is what threw me.
Your website shots this smaller one as an 8mm thread?


MJ in Beirut

It's covered at http://pinkpossum.com/GT750/Crank%20pullers.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can use a shorter 8mm bolt with the head cut off and a slot cut across the out facing end. Then screw in the 10mm bolt until it's really tight and then hit it with a BFH, which is completely different to hitting on a BFF.

Hello again!

Ramjam wrote:...I think i've got it. You're saying that the second bigger screw, by tightening pulls the rotar off by thrusting it outwards, right?

Yes. With sufficient force is applied, it will come off with a little bang

And it needs the smaller screw just for the simple reason as to not damage the end of the shaft?

yes.

I mean, what confuses me is why does this smaller one NEED to be screwed in. Your website shots this smaller one as an 8mm thread? MJ in Beirut

There is no need. As I wrote above you also can use a rod without thread (about 45mm long, Ø6,5mm). So as shown in the Haynes Manual.

When I started with GT380 I had no rotor puller. Thinking about making the puller by myself, I looked after in the Haynes Manual and the Suzuki Tool-List.
The Suzuki tool is fine, but I had no turning lathe to make it.
I don't like a loose Rod. What, if it bends and clamps and the rotor does not go off? How do I then get the rod out again? Therefore it must be made ​​of hard steel. But I did not have the right material, then.
So I came up with the idea with the threaded pin. It was made from a standard M8-Screw (Quality 10.9), from which I cut the head of.

bye
Markus

it didn't work markus. What happened was that the head of the pin has now lost its indentation for the screwdriver blade - and i can't get the rotor to come off.
I now have the crankshaft out though. Could i just hit it with a soft mallot or piece of wood away from the direction of the crank? Shouldn't it come off?

mj in beirut

Ramjam wrote: Could i just hit it with a soft mallot or piece of wood away from the direction of the crank? Shouldn't it come off?

Martin - you risk ruining the rotor trying that - the rotor needs to be pushed straight off the taper. I have yet the see the slug/spacer and push bolt method described above fail - yes, you do sometimes need to 'shock' the rotor also as described above using the BFH, but to not hit the rotor itself. Just the bolt head of the pusher bolt once it is seated on the head of your slug. And of course, the head of your slug/spacer must be proud of the end of the crankshaft taper eh ?

ok, yes to all the above. i am hitting the head of the larger bolt to shock it. But it's not working. And yes the smaller bolt inside is proud of the end of the crank. I guess i am not hitting it hard enough

Ramjam wrote: I guess i am not hitting it hard enough

Well - if you have the pusher bolt cinched tight as you can get to the head of the slug so everything is under tension, then normally a solid belt on the head of the bolt with (to quote Frank Westworth) Thor, King of Hammers will pop it off. Usually with a loud crack that is loud enough to startle.

i'm hitting it on the top of the bolt head like a lunatic and all i am doing is working up a sweat and bending the bolt (which is one of the engine bolts, btw). Nothing is shifting. Is there an alternative way.
If i hit it from the other side with a soft hammer, would that not force it off? i know you dont like this idea as there is a risk of breaking the rotor itself, but with a soft hammer in the right direction....isn't it worth the risk if the damned thing is indeed stuck on?

MJ in Beirut

Grab a suitable Cap head screw aka Alan head bolt and use that in the rotor. Tighten as hard as you can and then tighten it some more and then use a BFH and smack it hard and it WILL pop off. If it's not tightened sufficiently it's less likely to work.

in case you didn't know, BFH is a Big Frikkin' Hammer!