I'm getting no spark

jbswear · Post by **jbswear** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:18 pm

Okay, so I decided to try and get the GT380 running this weekend. Not really to ride, but more to just get a nice warm and fuzzy feeling, knowing that it's still running.

Well, no warm and fuzzy because I couldn't even get it to spark.

So I started checking connections. Things look good so far, except for one thing, which I think is my problem.

I pulled open the points cover and noticed some corrosion...The bike sat for a bit in foul weather without a proper gasket, so moisture got in. In particular, on the actual breaker points themselves was quite a bit of greenish and white corrosion.

When I bridged the metal they sit on with a screw driver, I got great fat sparks jumping, but can see no spark when the contact separate, so I'm assuming I need to clean them up.

What do you guys recommend I use to clean them? I'll pull them off completely to ensure that I can reach all surfaces.

Should I use a solvent like alcohol and fine grit sandpaper?

Thanks!

advant63 · Post by **advant63** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 2:49 pm

i might forego the sand paper and just use some cardboard from a matchbook or ciggy carton first. removing material from the points is not the object, just a clean flat connection. i've never used alcohol except when it came in the brake cleaner, but it couldn't hurt.

H2RICK · Post by **H2RICK** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:12 pm

I would try some REAL spray contact cleaner. It has corrosion solvents and inhibitors in it that alcohol doesn't have. As advant says, the idea is NOT to remove any of the metal from the points....just to clean the corrosion off.
So, no emery cloth or sandpaper.....just some uncoated (non-shiny) heavy stock paper....like a business card from someone who annoyed you !!!

Use that in combination with the contact cleaner when each set of points are on the low part of the points cam and the key is off. Hold the points open with one hand and insert the cardstock between the contacts and let the points close on the cardstock. Drag the cardstock through the closed contacts and keep repeating on a clean section of the cardstock every time until it comes out clean. Then check across the contacts with an ohm meter. You should get very close to zero ohms resistance.....lower is better in this case.
If you have a "spear" (or spike) on the points that rips the cardstock while dragging it from between the closed contacts then you'll have to replace the points or dress the side of the contacts that have the "spear" to remove it.
You'll have to use a flexible non-metallic points file to do that....if you can still buy such a thing.

tz375 · Post by **tz375** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:18 pm

Alcohol is a great idea - but for you - not the bike.

With power off, scrub the points and connections with a toothbrush and some isopropyl alcohol and blow it dry . Try to avoid using files or sandpaper unless there is apimple on the point surface that needs to be removed.

For checking ignition systems I like to use spark gap testers. they are really cheap from teh auto store and connect to the plug cap and the other end is a lead to ground. Open teh gap to say 6mm with one on each cylinder if the budget goes that far, and turn on the ignition and check for spark.

In theory the condensor is there to stop any sparking at the points, so we don't expect to see much or any sparking there.

Where we want to see a nice fat blue spark is at the end of the HT lead. Those ignition testers are so much better than laying a plug against the head and looking for a feeble spark at the plug.

The spark should easily jump 6mm with a nice fat "crack".

rngdng · Post by **rngdng** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:35 pm

380, no sparK? Perhaps the notorious points drive gear?

Lane

advant63 · Post by **advant63** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 8:25 pm

For checking ignition systems I like to use spark gap testers.

don't they still use apprentices for that???

Triplerocky · Post by **Triplerocky** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 1:15 am

advant63 wrote:
For checking ignition systems I like to use spark gap testers.
don't they still use apprentices for that???

..... no more, nowaday they all comes well insulated (just look those rubber shoes)

jbswear · Post by **jbswear** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:09 am

rngdng wrote:380, no sparK? Perhaps the notorious points drive gear?

Lane

No, I pulled the points cover and the shaft is spinning properly.

I can't imagine it's broken. Several months ago, when I opened up that side of the crank case, that nylon gear was in good shape. I've only turned the engine over with the kickstart since then.

I think it's the corrosion on the contacts that's giving me trouble. Need to clean them up.