Suzuki 2 Strokes

How or what do you guys use to drain the lines to clean them ? I hung mine for 5 days and not a drop came out. I left the pump end down low and nothing. Is there a tool I can use to suck it out from the pump end ? When I hung it with the banjos down to test for a check valve leak I did find one leaking. That line is the only line that has a coupler at the midway point. Why is it the only one that has an attachment like that ? And how are you guys taking the banjos off and putting them back together in order to fix the springs ?

Chris (Coyote) uses rubbing alcohol and I tried that but it wasn't working for me. Oil doesn't seem to be miscible in that, so I used a can of carb cleaner to spray through each line from the pump end followed up with a spray of WD40 to flush out teh solvent and then I pumped injector oil through the lines and hung them up with banjos down and pump end up to see if any came out.

There is no good way to get the banjos off because the plastic pipe has formed hard around the barbs. It's easy to slide the steel crimp bands back out of the way and it may be possible to soften the ends enough with enough heat I guess.

The reason for the odd line seems to be that there isn't enough room to fit all banjos along that left side by the starter.

Your line appears to leak in a forward direction but not backwards. That could be a weak spring or a ball pushed into the spring. Try flushing the lines and see if it will hold oil after it's flushed.

Thanks. So basically the only option is to push the oil back out the same hole that you're spraying into. From the pump end. I figured the same about the ball being in the spring. I was contemplating running a thicker guitar string through the banjo hole to try to push the ball back out of the spring. Has something like that ever worked for anyone ? Is there another check valve in that coupling? Weird thing is, my line will empty between that coupler and the banjo. But between the coupler and pump it stays full.

Poking wire up the hose will not move the ball if it's inside a spring. In your case, that does not sound like it's a problem.

After you flush the lines and before you fill them with WD40 you can test them with a Mitivac to confirm that you have no flow back to the pump end and that they crack open at 2-4 PSI forwards. If they pass those tests they are OK.

I was dreaming of using solvent to clean the lines and then dip the ends in an ultrasonic cleaner unit to get the spring/ball clean.
Has anyone ever tried this? Is it advisable to attempt?
Opinions welcome.
Art

Trying to spray anything into the lines to get the oil out is worthless. I found a
better way. I'm going to mount the pump, octapus and oil tank to a 1/8 sheet of metal. Operate the pump off the bike to push the oil out of the lines using alcohol in the oil tank. Followed by wd-40.

I used a nozzle from the MityVac to spray into the pump end. It's tapered and worked really well for me. When I pumped oil through with an oil can I had to use the O rings to get it to seal.

Its easy for me to get oil in, getting it out was my problem
I like the idea of mounting the whole assembly off the bike. That way you can test the pump as you clean. Mine was overdue to be cleaned. Parts were so sticky that I had to pry the o-rings off the bottom of the pump with a screwdriver. Probably a good idea to change those too due to hardening.

Did you see Ian Sandy's (Oldjapanesebikes) test rig? It's s simple way to test output and I guess to push solvents through the system at the right pressure.