Suzuki 2 Strokes

Question: Should there be any side to side play in the connecting rods on a t-350? How much is acceptable? I have a healthy 1/4 inch of play.

Thanks!

The rods are meant to be able to float sideways somewhat, from memory the rod ends / wrist pin ends on my 380 triple have a good 4 - 5mm side-to-side waggle in total.

What they SHOULDN'T do is have any straight vertical / up & down play. In other words, grasp the rod and try to feel for straight up & down play along the rod's axis.

Any amount of small end side to side shake comes from big end play.
I don't have exact data for that particular bike, but usually replacement is due when side to side shake reaches 0.2mm to every 10mm of connecting rod length. For example, Yamaha 110mm rods should be replaced, when small end side to side shake reaches 2mm.

2 mm is too much for a con rod 110mm Yam
for example on a 350RZ
_ origin or Japan con rod, 0.7mm play
_ Hot rod con rod (Taiwan) from 1 to 1.1mm
Both dead over 1.4mm and also before
For your 350 T it is about the same measure, dead over 1.2mm and braking motor over 1.5
See my link and explanations how to measure
http://www.dinogt.fr/refection-de-vilbr ... s-des-jeux" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Your are the best, too strong for me.
One thing... on a T 500 the thickness con rod is about 7mm, the spacing between the weels is about 9mm, explane us how can is possible to have 3.5mm play with 2 mm beetween con rod and weels (2.5 is possible because the con rod is a little longer than the weels).

I will be happy if some one esle who know this crankshaft can tell us if I am wrong on my measures, and if there is nobody, i can also give us a photo of a T 500 con rod between 2 weels.

I have do many 350RZ crankshaft (and others), on eatch one I do I measure the all clearances, feet and heads, so , I know what I am speaking about.

PEDRO wrote:Its easy to have 3.5mm play on the con rod ..... its called being worn out .... duhhhh 3.5 is the suzuki maximum...

Shure, when the big end bearing is gone, you can have 3 or 4 mm play but the motor is also out and some minutes (or secondes) before it has been 2mm

PEDRO wrote: ...especially going on to some sites and telling people I am liar about my products and where they are produced...

Do'nt cry babe, nobody have see why I have write that... so, it is as if I had not writting.

PEDRO wrote:...And NO actually you do not know what you speak about !!!!

The experience is a lantern that illuminates only the path.
Every champion will be one day the last...
You are too stong for me ... what are you doing here with all your knowledge, at the middle of ignoramuses ?

I hope you will have one day one star that will shine only for you... buuuut... may be that this is already the case.

So trash talk aside, no one has a definitive answer for this model?

I have a haynes manual but there is no mention of side to side specs.

Thanks for the help.

You must take your choice, see my link and you will understand.
You have about 1mm and it is very good
You have about 1.5 mm and it is very old
You have more than 1.6 mm and it is dead
But 3 things important,
_ how must rust have you at the top and at the end ?
_ your seals are they good... ?
_ if you change externals seals, why do you think the internals are good ?

I don't understand what you are taking about (as you say "the language barrier"), I think just some kindnesses.
So, as you want 3mm play on a 136mm conrod, with out exessive calculations :
_ play BE origine (about) 0.015mm give 0.7mm at the foot
_ how much play at the BE with 3mm at the foot ?
_ (0.015/0.7) 3 = 0.022 x 3 = 0.065 mm bore at the head...excluding roughnesses (pin, bearing and con rod)
0.065... prehaps a little TOO MUCH no ?
It isn't ?