Suzuki 2 Strokes

Looks like the original part# 09168-06002 has been superseeded by 09168-06004 and it's listed as a tach gear washer. Any known issues with the new part#?

I just bought some a couple weeks ago. The new ones are not plastic like original, they look like aluminum washers now. Could probably be picked up at the local hardware store. So far they've worked, no leaks.

I'll go ahead and order a couple then. Thanks.

Someone - I think Jughead was talking about using Stat -o -Seals from McMaser Carr.

I bought a stack of Stat-o-Seals ( on Jugheads advice) and swear by them. Can be reused many times.
Never even had any sign of a leak or weep from them

I just placed the order with McMaster Carr for a 10 pack of 6mm stat-o-seals for $14.80. Great price. Thanks again guys, that's why I ask these questions.

Josh

Just checked them out. The stat-o-seals look very similar to what Suzuki now sells for the petcock to tank mounting bolts (too big for the oil lines though).

I put them in on my bike about 5 years ago. Superior to the old plastic ones or the new aluminum ones, in my opinion.

Was about to order some of the Suzuki tach washers. Thought I'd check to see what others are doing first.

Was planning on using Hondabond & the tach washers.
But the M6 stat-o-seal washers look like a better wash to go. Also won't need the Hondabond.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#stat-o-seal-washers/=jdia08

Had previously asked what I should torque the bolts to using the tach washers & 3.6 lb-ft was recommended.

Am inclined to think I should use less torque for the stat-o-seal washers. Any recommendations?

jabcb wrote: But the M6 stat-o-seal washers look like a better wash to go. Also won't need the Hondabond.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#stat-o-seal-washers/=jdia08

Thanks for the link

Found a posting on the Kawasaki 2 stroke form on this topic.
Those bikes have the same problem with the oil line gaskets. They are also using the stat-o-seal washers with good success.
http://kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2630

Also found manufacturer torque specs for the stat-o-seal washers.
See series 610 for metric washers on page 13 of:
http://www.parker.com/literature/Seal%2 ... 205125.pdf

Not needed by our low pressure oil systems, but these washers seal for rather impressive pressures. Specs are on page 12 of link.

The bold torque recommendation for 6mm washers is 40 to over 120 lb-in (3.3 to over 10 lb-ft).
So the Suzuki recommended torque spec of 3.6 lb-ft is ok for these washers.
But that is for a high pressure seal. The text on page 13 indicates the washers can seal for low pressures when only finger tight.

Think I'll split the difference and torque them to 1.8 lb-ft.

Use these at work for hydraulic fittings, which is quite high pressure. So should be good for oil lines, petrol taps and the like.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-M6-METRI ... 3cb62cbeee" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

jabcb wrote:The bold torque recommendation for 6mm washers is 40 to over 120 lb-in (3.3 to over 10 lb-ft).
So the Suzuki recommended torque spec of 3.6 lb-ft is ok for these washers.
But that is for a high pressure seal. The text on page 13 indicates the washers can seal for low pressures when only finger tight.

Think I'll split the difference and torque them to 1.8 lb-ft.

I don't know for certain, but I'll guess that Suzuki was more concerned about not twisting the head off of the bolt than sealing the washer when they set that spec. The bolt, being hollow and having a hole drilled across it above the threaded area can easily have the head twisted off it given too much force.

At least it already has a hole drilled in it, making it easy to insert the screw extractor.

Agreed.

The conflict is between enough torque to seal a crush washer vs. breaking the bolt.
As an amateur mechanic its something I worry about.

The AFS seal washers you use for hydraulic fittings look good too.
A + for the stat-o-seal washers from McMaster is that they are available for next day delivery in the US.

Hey jabcb, stumbled onto this kinda late. If you go with the stat-o-seals their pretty solid so no worry about crushing them. I'm not sure what the actual torque requirement is but they go from loose to tight pretty fast so as soon as you feel resistance just give it another 1/4 turn or so and you're good to go.

Josh