Suzuki 2 Strokes

Hi

Well I am finally looking at reassembly! Reading back on the board it appears that Three Bond 1104 is well recommended for 'glueing' the crankcase halves back together (??)

When I pulled the crankcase apart there was a lot of glue sealer (grey and hard) on and around the oil seals and on the crank journals around the o-rings. I am not sure about three bond on the crank... should't the o-rings be left to do their thing? The outer o-rings also have some small nicks, should these be replaced (if they area available?).

The recommendation was for Three Bond 1104 on the case halves where there is no gasket... what about the side covers that do have gaskets... no glue or glue on one side, or both? The old gaskets were REALLY glued on hard! In fact the previous owner glued everything... it was a nightmare getting the head and barrel gaskets off, and then removing the dribbles of glue.

Finally, are there any recommendations about screws and bolts... Locktyte (if so which one), Copper Coat or nothing???

Spent the day cleaning, masking and priming the lower case and really happy with how it is looking.

I'm not an expert - other's on the board will chime in I'm sure - but I don't normally put anything on the seals and gaskets - just the case halves. I do lap some of the surfaces on a place of plate glass with some 600 or finer paper on occasion, and if the faces are nicked or gouged, I usually repair with a bit of JB Weld to get it back to flat. I do use copper coat on most of the larger bolts, and loctite blue on any of the internal screws that will not be accessible when its all buttoned up. If this is a GT750, don't forget to use a new copper seal/gasket on bolt 13 on the underside of the crankcase - and on that one bolt use of 1104 is also recommended.

Good luck !

oldjapanesebikes wrote: I don't normally put anything on the seals and gaskets - just the case halves.

If this is a GT750, don't forget to use a new copper seal/gasket on bolt 13 on the underside of the crankcase - and on that one bolt use of 1104 is also recommended.

Thank you... that is very helpful... the previous owner had spread some sort of grey goop everywhere that had gone hard and took a lot to get off. I even have it through the o-rings on the crank! I ended up using heavy duty electrical cleaner.

Be aware that the formulation for that 3 Bond is being changed. It may no longer be the gray semi drying stuff many of us know and love. It's being changed to a clear silicone based formula that, personally, I will not use. You may be able to find some of the good old stuff still on the shelf at a Honda or Yamaha dealer. 3 Bond supplied it to them and it was sold as Hondabond 4 or Yamabond 4. You can use it on the O.D. of seals to help seal them in the case but I wouldn't put it on o-rings. Here's a link on seal replacement with the cases assembled. I've used these tips and they work very well. One more not mentioned - buff the area of the shaft where the seal lip rides with a Scotchbrite pad. This won't remove any material but will thoroughly clean and smooth the area out so the new seal has a nice fresh surface to work against .....

http://www.650motorcycles.com/XSseals.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have found Permatex Hylamar to be a perfect gasket dressing, maker for two strokes. It does not dry out, and is gasoline resistant. I would use it everywhere, o-rings too, except on the head gaskets. There I might consider spray-on copper or just go 'au-natural'. Suzuki does state on at least the cylinder bolts, nuts that they should be dry so as to get a 'proper' torque when being tightened down. So NO locktight or lubricant on those threads per the maker. Your mileage may vary.....

Thanks 5twins and rbond, that is helpful!!

That's odd. I use Permatex anti seize compound on ALL my critical assemblies. That's the ONLY way to get accurate torque readings, Dry will lie to you every time.

rbond wrote:So NO locktight or lubricant on those threads per the maker.....

Coyote wrote:That's odd. I use Permatex anti seize compound on ALL my critical assemblies. That's the ONLY way to get accurate torque readings, Dry will lie to you every time.

Ah, disagreement... excellent! The best possible way to get to the truth.