Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
-
- Yeah Man, the Interstate
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:27 am
- Location: New Zealand
Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
I am wanting to remove my pipes to give them a decent clean out. There is years of crud in there. My question is about the small joiner/equaliser pipes at the front. Is there anything particular I need to know/think of before I pull them apart. Are they easy to put back together after the clean out - or will they leak/let smoke out through the joins?
Thanks for any advice.
Mike
Thanks for any advice.
Mike
Burt Munro + John Britten + Kim Newcombe + Ivan Mauger = Kiwi Street Cred
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
- Coyote
- Moto GP
- Posts: 3404
- Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:41 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: GT550x2, GT750, GS1000
- Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
There are o-rings on those short pipes (part # 09280-43002). It's a good idea to have those on hand. Suzuki sells a special sealer for those joints that doesn't work that well. Most guys use high temp RTV on those joints on assembly. Use a bungee cord or a tie down strap to hold those joints tightly together as the RTV cures. Wait 24 hours before firing it up. You wont have any leaks.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
.
1978 GS1000C
1976 GT550 ongoing money pit.
.
1978 GS1000C
1976 GT550 ongoing money pit.
-
- Yeah Man, the Interstate
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:27 am
- Location: New Zealand
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
Many thanks for the info. I shall get onto the parts before I pull them apart.
Burt Munro + John Britten + Kim Newcombe + Ivan Mauger = Kiwi Street Cred
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
-
- Yeah Man, the Interstate
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:27 am
- Location: New Zealand
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
Coyote,
I have pulled the pipes apart successfully and purchased the correct o-rings. I see in the parts manual, there are seals (part #99000-31020) that go in either end of the small coupler pipes. My bike didn't have any and didn't seem to leak. I've priced them via Reiner's site and they are listed as 22 Euros each
and there are four needed. His decription also has them as being "asbestos"
Question: Are these completely necessary or are there more economical options that will do the same job?
Thanks for any advice,
Mike
I have pulled the pipes apart successfully and purchased the correct o-rings. I see in the parts manual, there are seals (part #99000-31020) that go in either end of the small coupler pipes. My bike didn't have any and didn't seem to leak. I've priced them via Reiner's site and they are listed as 22 Euros each


Question: Are these completely necessary or are there more economical options that will do the same job?
Thanks for any advice,
Mike
Burt Munro + John Britten + Kim Newcombe + Ivan Mauger = Kiwi Street Cred
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
- Coyote
- Moto GP
- Posts: 3404
- Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:41 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: GT550x2, GT750, GS1000
- Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
Seals? The USA (Alpha Sports) fiche does not show any additional seals. Just the 2 pipes #18 and the 4 o-rings #19.
Just make sure the pipe ends and the cups on the mufflers are clean (no oil residue). Smear plenty of RTV on the pipe ends and o-rings and assemble. Do not put any RTV in the cups as this may cause some RTV being pushed into the pipes. Wipe off any RTV that oozes out of the joint and devise a method of holding everything snugly together as the RTV sets up. Wait 24 hours before firing it up.

Just make sure the pipe ends and the cups on the mufflers are clean (no oil residue). Smear plenty of RTV on the pipe ends and o-rings and assemble. Do not put any RTV in the cups as this may cause some RTV being pushed into the pipes. Wipe off any RTV that oozes out of the joint and devise a method of holding everything snugly together as the RTV sets up. Wait 24 hours before firing it up.

I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
.
1978 GS1000C
1976 GT550 ongoing money pit.
.
1978 GS1000C
1976 GT550 ongoing money pit.
- oldjapanesebikes
- Moto GP
- Posts: 3229
- Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:43 am
- Country: Canada
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: GT750(Jx3,L,M,A,B),T500
- Location: Ontario
- Contact:
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
+1 to Coyote - the 'seal' that Reiner sells is just the caulking similar to what Suzuki originally used. As described above, RTV works just as well.
Ian
If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !
If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !
- Coyote
- Moto GP
- Posts: 3404
- Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:41 pm
- Country: USA
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: GT550x2, GT750, GS1000
- Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
And it's a LOT cheaper. You will end up throwing away more than you use. RTV doesn't have a very good shelf life once opened.
I was born with nothing and still have most of it left.
.
1978 GS1000C
1976 GT550 ongoing money pit.
.
1978 GS1000C
1976 GT550 ongoing money pit.
-
- Yeah Man, the Interstate
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:27 am
- Location: New Zealand
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
Thanks guys - as usual very helpful and practical advice. I shall follow these steps.
Interesting about that diagram you put up. My parts manual for the J model shows the same but with the addition of a "seal" on either side of the o-rings - for both of the couplers. Mine has the o-rings labelled as 19 as per your pic but has the seal labelled as 27 and then the part number for it on the next page. Curious.
Interesting about that diagram you put up. My parts manual for the J model shows the same but with the addition of a "seal" on either side of the o-rings - for both of the couplers. Mine has the o-rings labelled as 19 as per your pic but has the seal labelled as 27 and then the part number for it on the next page. Curious.
Burt Munro + John Britten + Kim Newcombe + Ivan Mauger = Kiwi Street Cred
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
- oldjapanesebikes
- Moto GP
- Posts: 3229
- Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:43 am
- Country: Canada
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: GT750(Jx3,L,M,A,B),T500
- Location: Ontario
- Contact:
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
And by chance is the part number 99000-31020 ?MikeH1A wrote: Mine has the o-rings labelled as 19 as per your pic but has the seal labelled as 27 and then the part number for it on the next page. Curious.
Ian
If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !
If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !
-
- Yeah Man, the Interstate
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:27 am
- Location: New Zealand
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
Ah, my head hurts
Sure looked like another part to me 


Burt Munro + John Britten + Kim Newcombe + Ivan Mauger = Kiwi Street Cred
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
72 GT750J
71 TS250R
71 H1A
- oldjapanesebikes
- Moto GP
- Posts: 3229
- Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:43 am
- Country: Canada
- Suzuki 2-Strokes: GT750(Jx3,L,M,A,B),T500
- Location: Ontario
- Contact:
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
99000-31020 is usually listed on the Options page of the parts manuals, but as you seem to have found must have been shown in on the mufflers page in some cases. It is a sort of rope caulking that was used to pack the joint. You just cut off a short length and then stuffed it in the gap before cinching up the pipes. As previously offered, several of folks here think RTV is easier to work with, is cheaper, and as it stays flexible over time seems to work well longer term.
Ian
If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !
If at first you don't succeed, just get a bigger hammer !
-
- On the street
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Fri Jul 30, 2010 2:36 pm
Re: Exhaust removal query - 72 Buffalo
I have a pkg of the original packing from old stock. it is a soft sticky water pump packing. material. I could send you a sample if you wish to find a substitute. pm me ps do not use stock o rings, buy high temp silicone ones they will last much much longer without hardening and blowing out.