Seperating cases 76 GT500

[jojob]

So I decided that I may need to just split the cases to clean the engine. I was reading through the manual, and it basically said to take the 17 bolts out and tap on the case with a mallet to separate the top from bottom. Is there anything else? Do I need to do anything else special to separate them, or anything else to watch out for?

[Zunspec4]

Hi jojob.

Be aware that there are bolts to come out from both the top and bottom of the cases. I use a rubber mallet to gently (and not so gently ) tap the cases at the front below the front engine mounting casting/bolt. Do whatever it takes to NOT be tempted to lever the cases apart with a screw driver .

Cheers Geoff

[jojob]

Is there anything else that I have to take off the engine, besides the bolts to separate the cases?

[dorT500]

...............and it basically said to take the 17 bolts out and tap on the case with a mallet to separate the top from bottom. Is there anything else? Do I need to do anything else special to separate them, or anything else to watch out for?

I'd have to look again but I know there are at least 19, not 17, bolts (upper and lower) that need to be removed. For one...maybe you are over looking the upper one in the oil pump 'compartment'. It is good to get into the habit of removing torqued down bolts in the reverse pattern that they were torqued down and just in quarter to half increments on each one.

On the clutch cover. You should just take light to medium 'glancing blows' at it with a rubber mallet. Maybe wipe some acetone along the joint a couple of times to help speed things up. It may take several attempts but you will see it starting to budge straight out on the locating pins in short order. No prying what so ever. After the old gasket and sealer has been completely removed, I apply gasket and sealer to the clutch cover only. If the crankcase mating surfaces are in nice shape with no nicks, etc. and you replace the cover nice and tight, there is no need to put sealer on these surfaces. The clutch cover will of course come off a lot easier if you need to remove it for other problems that may occur in the future.

Being new to this engine, you may want to start taking some pictures as you disassemble the engine. Good Luck

[jojob]

So do I have to remove the front sprocket or anything? That is the only thing that looks like I may need to take off since it has a plate behind it that looks to connect to both top and bottom half

[dorT500]

So do I have to remove the front sprocket or anything? That is the only thing that looks like I may need to take off since it has a plate behind it that looks to connect to both top and bottom half

Yes that plate and do you have the clutch cover off yet?.........You need to remove the clutch assembly and then it will be evident what has to come off before you can separate the crank case. Get some sort of trays to help organize all the parts you are about to remove and again....it sounds like a camera is going to be your best friend.

I don't remember if you have the engine out the frame already but removing the clutch assembly will probably be easier for you if the engine is still in the frame.

[dorT500]

Here you go....this should help some.

https://ozebook.com/suzi/2017/09/24/chr ... e-project/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


EDIT:....and this, clearer parts fiches than most you find http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/gt500 ... 0parts.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[jojob]

Engine is already off of bike. Got the clutch assembly off pretty easily. I am assuming that I have to take the flywheel off of the other side as well? How do I get that darn thing off? I have the cases separated, but they wont come apart because of the harness behind the flywheel.

[dorT500]

..........How do I get that darn thing off? ...........

Now that, you will have to ask someone that has or had a GT500 which exact holder and puller they used.....homemade, bought or borrowed.
There are a couple of 'shadetree mechanic' ways to hold the flywheel while taking off and putting back on( per torque specs) but I would not feel comfortable telling you about them....might do some damage to a coil behind the flywheel if not done exactly right and another way might damage some adjacent parts. The crankshaft end of the GT500 crankcase is slightly different from the T500 crankcase because of the PEI/flywheel set up. I have never worked on a GT500. The special tools from Suzuki are too expensive to buy just for occasional use but it is probably easy enough to come up with a some type of holder and an appropriate puller and metric bolts of the correct size and thread pitch, making sure to protect the end of the crankshaft as you draw off the flywheel with maybe a small washer between the crankshaft end and the draw bolt.

I simply don't know for sure if a standard adjustable puller that you can, for only a refundable deposit, borrow from an auto supply would work for you or not.



Here are a couple of pics of the tools that pop up when you enter the Suzuki tool partnumbers minus the draw bolt and one aftermarket one from a UK ebay seller.



On the T500 the stator is just removed and the rotor just pushed off the crankshaft end by just screwing in the the proper size bolt.....actually, the rear wheel axle of the T500 is even used sometimes...it is the correct size and pitch.

Hopefully a GT500 owner will chime in with the way they did it.

[dorT500]

Maybe this thread will help viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5088&hilit=flywheel" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good Luck

[jojob]

Sorry for the late replay, but I finally got the flywheel off. The bad news, is what I found. How bad is this? What alternatives do I have besides buying a new coil?

[dorT500]

Damn



Looks like someone jammed a screwdriver in there trying to hold the flywheel.

Maybe there is a motorcycle salvage yard you could go to in your area. Hopefully an old-school one that may have better prices than you will find on ebay. Either way, you've got to know it's a gamble going in.

Looks like it's time to post over at the ELECTRICAL department of this message board and get some ideas from the electrical gurus and definitely post your needs in the PARTS WANTED department of this forum.

That's a shame about the damage you found. Hang in there, take your time and Good Luck

[karl pa]

Looking at your plate, it appears the plate is broke and missing a piece at the one screw slot. The missing piece is where the timing mark is located that you align with mark on case, so you may have trouble setting the timing properly. The charging coils are still available from Suzuki, but pretty pricey.